Deleting Factory Amplifier

Hey all, I'm looking for some guidance on deleting the factory amp from my 2014 SR5. I've combed through past threads and have a very general idea of what needs to be done, and already have the wire harnesses from https://www.autoharnesshouse.com/41112.html.

So here's my humble request: can someone break it down for me like I'm a 5 year old?

I already have the seat out and am ready to rock and roll, but I'm not sure if I'm simply marrying the two harnesses together or if I have to run additional wires back to the dash.

Any/all suggestions are welcome and appreciated. Even links to relevant posts that I may have missed (which I don think is possible because I've been researching it for the past few weeks, but feel free to surprise me. Pictures would also be great in lieu of a detailed explanation.

Thanks,
Dave

 

I'm a bit disappointed that I couldn't find/figure this out on my own since I've been installing 12V systems since I was a kid, but clearly this isn't an uncommon issue. So I'm happy to put a bounty on finding a solution - if it's within the forum regulations - so I can document what I cannot figure out on my own.

Moderators, keep me honest. And community help me figure this out. I'm not dumb, and I have countless mods thanks to doing it myself, and this forum, but I'm stuck!

 

JBL or non-JBL?
I'll see if i can find where i wrote down the pinout down but might be a stretch. You would just need to connect the output from the head unit to the door speaker wires. there will also be a ground, +12v and an accessory wire, just tape over those.

How come you are trying to bypass the factory amp? Usually people remove it an put a 4 or 5 channel amp in its place. Just an fyi, dash speakers are powered directly off the head unit, the doors are powered by the amp.

 

So you're borrowing trouble and overthinking this. I get it, I do it too.

When you get the harness in the mail, you'll notice that certain wires are color coded to match on the two halves. Wire them together and you're done. You've successfully looped the audio back from the headunit back out to the speakers uninterrupted.

I did this when I installed the Dasaita headunit which makes more, and cleaner, power than the fake SR5 non-JBL amp that was wedged under the seat. Removal of it cleaned things up and make them sound a zillion times better, to be scientifically accurate in all respects.

 

Working from my phone…a little tough to pull up the wiring diagrams on it. But need to know if you’ve got JBL or not. From there, the data is in the EWD thread

 

Oh, also you needed to order the right harness for JBL vs non-JBL so if that's a mismatch, the harness won't plug in in the first place.

 

Thanks for all of the responses. I should have been more clear, it is a non-JBL system. I'm pretty confident that I have the right harness based on what I've learned here.

And the reason for the bypass is pretty simple, I initially wanted to replace the head unit which I thought would be pretty easy. I quickly found out that it's a little more nuanced. The law of unintended consequences

The initial goal is to replace the head unit with a longer term goal of replacing the factory speakers and amp. I actually have the speakers already but I'm still researching options for the amp.

 

If you simply want to delete the factory amp and install a new head unit I believe there are plug and play harnesses as @MedCityMoto

What many, including myself have done, is replace the factory amp. Most aftermarket head units will sound better but lack the volume will likely leave you wanting more……there are a number of good, budget friendly amps that replace the factory amp, mount in the same place and have plug and play harnesses that make it very easy to do.

 

So here's where I'm at. Clearly this is the factory amp and associated wiring harnesses (input and output)



Here's a shot of one of the two adapter harnesses that I purchased (4438 / 4439).



And here's another shot of the two adapter harnesses that I purchased (4438 / 4439).

Is the process really as simple as connecting the corresponding wires in the 4438 harness set (Toyota Factory Amp Upgrade harness (for Non-JBL Amplified vehicles)) and plugging them into the corresponding factory plug? Like I said previously, I (a) am prone to overthinking/overcomplicating things and (b) may be jamming myself up because I purchased the Reverse Toyota Factory Amp Upgrade harness (4439) proactively since I am eventually planning on adding a 4/5 channel amp.

 

This is what I used to remove the factory amp and replaced it with a different one

https://*********.com/shop/toyota-t...ra-stock-amplifier-harness-interface-adapter/

 

These should be the pinouts for the factory harnesses. I'd focus more on the positions of the wires, not the colors, as the colors seem to change from year to year.

 

Sometimes it helps to stop and really try to picture what you're trying to accomplish before jumping in and just trying to do it. Once I did that I was able to understand the purpose of the harnesses and how they went together (I think). I matched the outputs on the respective harnesses to the inputs. 4 wires on the 12 pin harness had to go to their corresponding wires on the 10 pin harness. Similarly, the other 8 wires on the 12 pin harness needed to matched (input to output). The matching resulted in this:



The pinouts were as follows:

10-pin
1: FR+ (output)
2: FL+ (output)
3: ACC
4: +B
5: FR- (output)
6: FL- (output)
7: GND
8: None
9: AMP
10: None

12-pin
1: FL+ (input)
2: FR+ (input)
3: RL+ (input)
4: RR+ (output)
5: RL+ (output)
6: FL- (input)
7: FR- (input)
8: RL- (input)
9: RR+ (input)
10: RR- (input)
11: RR- (output)
12: RL- (output)

The pinout matches (at least for my application) were as follows (12p = 12-pin connector, 10p = 10-pin connector, # after the connector is the specific pin):

12p1 - 10p2
12p2 - 10p1
12p3 - 12p5
12p4 - 12p9
12p5 - 12p3
12p6 - 10p6
12p7 - 10p5
12p8 - 12p12
12p9 - 12p4
12p10 - 12p11
12p11 - 12p10
12p12 - 12p8

Clearly I still have to test everything out to make sure that it works the way that I think it should. Then I'll need to solder and heat shrink the connections.

Let me know if this sounds reasonable, what I could have missed and anything else that may be helpful.

And my thanks to all who commented/offered suggestions. I really appreciate it.

 

That sounds like exactly what I did!

 

Quick update.

I did a test and everything performed like I hoped/expected.

Then I soldered everything back together and heat shrinked the connections and Tessa taped the bundle to secure everything to make sure that it was insulated and tidy.



This is what it looks like before the amp delete.



Finally, I installed it and tested it again. The space will be perfect for a 4/5 channel amp and I'm looking at options that mesh well with the new speakers that I'm starting to install.



The new HU is amazing, and I've already started to replace the factory speakers. 9-10 years is a long span to live with the factory installed options, but it was OK. I suspect the new set-up is going to exceed my expectations and I only gave myself a modest budget. The center channel already sings, which all 2.5 generation owners know that it doesn't usually do that.

All of the speakers are on the agenda this weekend. Not sure that I'll get it done, but I'll document it and share because I know that someone will benefit from these threads like I did.

Appreciate this forum!

 

What did you replace the center channel with? I've heard many just delete that speaker when upgrading the tweeters and doors.

 

Back in the day, 2014, we had to make our own connectors.




I bought OEM JBL door sails and mounted my component tweeter in them.





After trying many options with the dash speakers, I ended up disconnecting all 3 of them.
They ruined the sound stage of my Focal 2-way front door components.
They were too 'in your face' with no way to fade them down separately from the front door speakers.


Plenty of room for a decent amp under the seat.
I'd get a 5 channel with a bass adjustment knob so you can add a sub and adjust it on the fly.



I tried a few different LOC and sound processor setups attempting to save the OEM HU.





But eventually replaced it with aftermarket HU




Good luck..

 

I went with the Sound Ordinance P-35B (3 1/2") because it was a match to the components that I purchased. I did, however, delete the speakers in both corners of the dash. I think the sound up front is really balanced, but as you've probably read, your mileage may vary.

 

Can you point me to, or do you have, these diagrams for the JBL system?

 

Should be able to find all that info here: https://www.tundras.com/threads/ultimate-tundra-wiring-diagrams-collection.81448/

 

Thank you!