How F'd am I? Door locked shut

2006 Double Cab. The front passenger door is locked shut. How did it get this way you may be asking? The latch mechanism went bad (the plastic coating on piece in the latch that rotates closed on loop attached to the B pillar rotted off and was keeping the door from closing unless I manually opened it all the way with my finger). I was sure someone would slam the door and shatter the window.

I stupidly bought a non-oem door latch off the bay for 1/2 the price of the OEM part (lesson learned!). I followed the instructions in a youtube video. Pretty easy to remove the old part and install the new part. I shut the door to test it and that was the last time it has opened. I've pulled the lock cable and the lock rod and neither unlocked the door. Somehow, for some reason new latch is stuck locked.

The door card is off. Any idea what to do other than getting a cut-off wheel and carving away at the lock and latch mechanisms?

I'd really like to have my wife riding up front again. I'm not amused with being the chauffeur.

 

Slim Jim. Call AAA if you have membership. They’ll have a tow truck driver do it for you.

 

Chances are one of two things: 1) The door latch is locked. 2) Tension on the door latch, either from misalignment or poor quality/install is making it stubborn to release.

For #1, You need to confirm the lock isn't ON with the door latch, and potentially auto-kicking back to locked after you unlock. I don't know how you would do that, but maybe if you knew which cable was the lock and which was the latch would help. It may be helpful to work directly with the door latch once you figure that out, through the door cavity.

And this will sound stupid, but for #2 check the alignment of the door at the seam next to the handle where it meets the cab to understand if the door is proud or inset to the cab. Also check the lower and upper edges to understand if the latch was too high or too low. Then get another person if necessary to either push down/up/out or pull-in on the door while you pull the cable for the door release OR jimmy the latch mechanism.

 

I don't think a slim jim will help as they aim for the cables and they appear to be non-op atm.. Maybe try turning the truck on and shifting from P to R or N and shifting back to P to try and force the door lock to unlock and try pulling on the handle cable at the same time to try an pry it open. May need a helper for this one.

AAA can help prying the door open, but if its's locked you'll be sitting in the same island.

 

Might be able to tinker with the opposite side door to determine exactly what makes it all tick so you can get a better idea of exactly what will and won't work best. I know you might also have a defective or slightly different part from the aftermarket source as well which could be a part of the problem. You might have a door alignment problem that created the problem to begin with.

 

Did the new latch work before installation? Lock/unlock and open?

 

I'm pretty sure the this won't work. The latch mechanism is stuck in the locked position. A slim jim works on the rods that trigger the door lock mechanism to lock/unlock. The rods and cables that control the lock are disconnected, and I've manipulated them into the unlocked positions without any change.

 

I've hit the unlock button on the key fob and driver door. All the other doors unlocked except the front passenger door.

The door is correctly lined up just like it was prior to the install, so, nice, straight and even in the opening.

I saved the old mechanism and figured out which cable and which rod trigger the locking. I've pulled the cable and moved the rod in the correct direction as well as the wrong direction and neither unlocked the latch.

 

Only thing I can advise is to try and pry the replacement latch. I had similar happen on a '98 C1500 I owned. I swore I was screwed. I eventually was able to jimmy the latch, but I busted the hell out of my hands working on it.

 

I very stupidly didn't think to test it and quite frankly didn't know how to. Once I went back to the old mechanism to see how the cable and/or rod needed to be moved to unlock the latch I could see how to test it.

Well, at least I don't have to pay for a new door card in addition to all the lock and locking parts as well as the window guide rail that it looks like I'm going to have to cut out. Uhggggg!

 

Before you get cutting, drive it down to a body shop and inquire with them. You might get lucky and get a little help.

 

I'm still trying to discern what a door card is, the door panel maybe? I just replaced the drivers latch and all went smoothly, but I did use an OEM latch, pricey as it was, but since the original did 20 plus years, i'll likely not care the next time it shits out.

 

Door card is the interior door panel. 'Card' is an old school term from bitd when the panel was literally cardstock/masonite.

 

Interesting, I've had cars with those masonite type panels. I don't think I've ever heard them called that, even in my old Haynes manuals.

 

It's totally slang. I doubt you'd find it in a manual. I've been using the term for 30-40 years now. It's what most auto upholstery and car audio shops with folks over 40-50 call it. It could be a regional thing, though. I've lived all across the south, bout 80% of my life was from TX east, and from GA south.

 

Maybe not just me... and note, I'm not British either:

​

 

Wheeler Dealers...

 

I've always called em door cards too.

Love that show. Haven't seen it in years. Wonder how they'd do post Rona with these insane used car prices.

 

I think I heard it on Wheelers Dealers as well along with the other terms Brits use like bonnet, boot, wing and windscreen.

 

I liken Wheeler Dealers to Van Halen. Edd China is their David Lee Roth, Sammy Hagar is Ant Anstead, and Elvis is Gary Cherone

 

I never watched their 2.0 version with Ant taking over for Ed.

 

It was waaaaay better with Ant!

 

Really? I actually liked Ed but not so much Van Hagar.

 

I would assume that the rod is supposed to go in like this ...


So
If you pull up on that rod with pliers and have someone push up against the outside of the door to relieve pressure AND pull on the unlock cable at the same time, it should release.

 

That I didn't think about! I've got a body shop that used to fix all my fleet vehicles back when I had a fleet to manage. I'll stop by there and see if they have any ideas.

 

Yes, the rod does go in the yellow clip. I took it back out when trying to get the latch to unlock. I'll give your hint a try and see if that solves the issue.

 

Interested to see what the body shop does for you. Especially as a former big client. The right tech, an old timer or killer problem solver will get to the bottom of it. He’ll be pumped to see that the trim panel is off. Nothing worse than closing an inop door fully assembled… ask me how I know!

 

Did some real pushing and pulling on the door, cables and rodas. No Joy. I'm hoping my bodyshop people have some magic.

 

Dam!
Thought that would have gotten you free. Good luck with the shop.

 

I'm sure you know the function in your sleep by now but wanted to offer just in case. Disregarding the cable connections and there positions, if you push down on the smaller rod downwards, which puts system in unlock position, then push down on larger size rod that had yellow clip, that places door catch in a release position as you attempt to open door.