No drivetrain maintenance in over 150k miles?!?!

So I've just recently bought my first truck which is the 2007 Tundra in my profile picture. This truck used to be my dad's as he bought it back in 2012 with 107k miles on it and has racked it up to over 250k. Now that I drive it every day and bask in all the memories I've had with this amazing truck, I start to wonder about how well he has/hasn't taken care of it. He's accumulated most of the paper work with oil changes, brake replacements, etc. But no sign of him ever touching the transmission, transfer case or any of the differentials. The truck drives perfectly fine (for now) but I can't help but wonder should I be worried?!?! What do you guys recommend I do?

For more context, the only problems we've ever had with this truck was the starter going out about 20k miles ago and the 4 wheel drive throwing weird lights on the dash every once and a while (by weird lights I mean either 4hi flashing randomly even when not in 4 wheel drive, 4lo flashing and all the traction control lights flashing/solid along with the occasional check engine light. But unplugging the battery always seemed to fix the issue.) It still operates normal (at least normal to me) but I'm honestly kind of scared to put into 4 wheel drive now that I know that the transfer case (or anything related for that matter) probably hasn't been touched in 12 years.

And before you guys start to have a field day with my father about how stupid he might be, just keep in mind that this truck has never left us stranded, and it still drives pretty much flawlessly which is insane to me.

 

Well, some would argue you've entered "lifetime fluid" category for those drivetrain parts. Myself, I would do gentle drain/refills, with the transmission I'd do once, drive it a week, do another, repeat a couple times. Definitely wouldn't want a pressurized anything near it. Wouldn't drop the pan unless you're a fan of drilling broken bolts.

But yeah the rest of it is straightforward drain and refill, but, that's me. I do all mine every 30k for differentials and transfer, transmission at 50k.

 

Swap all the fluids, easy hour or two. Trans I would flush all the fluid (videos on YouTube how to do it, just disconnect a hose at the trans cooler, don't do a dealership style forced flush), then drain and fill every couple oil changes.

 

That flashing lights issue might be the secondary air injection pump. Check the code. If it is the SAIP, there’s something called the Hewitt bypass kit which is wayyyy cheaper than actually fixing it. As far as I know, the SAIP doesn’t do much other than check the box for emissions standards during the 1st 30 seconds of start up.

 

Do trans service... no biggie, I did mine at 210k. no one is bashing you over that... flashing lights migjy be a C1201 code.. Grab an obd2 or take it to an auto parts shop and get a free99 code read. They wont selete them so be advised.

 

Thank you everyone for your replies and advice, I just did work at a customers house who happened to have the same year Tundra as mine with over 450k miles on it and he said he has only one guy that ever touches his truck and gave me his contact info. I might have him do the flush for me and check everything out to make sure its all good.

I did run the code when the lights were flashing before resetting the computer and I can't remember exactly what the code was but it did have something to do with torque convertor solenoid not working properly so it detected slipping??? Only ever did it the one time and it happened late january but I haven't used the 4 wheel drive since because I haven't needed it. What really confused me for that specific time was I never felt anything wrong happen before the lights came on I was just driving down the road after driving for maybe an hour and they popped up out of no where.

I just got done reading a very detailed thread which I'm glad I found before touching it and I'm hoping that for my case it'll be as easy as just cleaning the motor actuator but I haven't taken it apart yet to figure it out.

 

Yeah, I got a similar code, drained pan and refilled and moved, like 250 mikes never came back. Do get the c1201 and perfomance D stuck off. once I clear them they don't come back for months.

 

Does it only flash codes to you after you use 4 wheel drive or randomly even if you haven't used it?

 

On my 2008, it was at 300k miles and I’d never done anything with the trans. I did do diffs every ~80k if I recall, and i know the TC got done twice while I owned it after it got replaced early on as part I’da TSB. It was running as well when I traded it in as it did the day I bought it (better in some ways).

 

That's really relieving to hear glad I'm not the only one. Mine still drives really good as well for not touching anything but I still can't help but worry a little lol

 

Mine started having transmission(torque converter) shudder going around 35. Then it progressed to shudder happening while downshifting and just randomly shuddering until I applied more throttle to downshift and accelerate. At first I thought it was road rumble where pavement distorts from cold temps.

Ended up doing transmission flush at the dealer and all problems went away. Well, it got worse actually because she slipped and then revved up and smashed in gear after stopping at the intersection, but I think they got fluid level wrong first time. When I took truck back to them next day, they got it 'sorted' and it's been over 2 years problem free.

I don't remember exact mileage when it started, but I think it was around 90something-100k miles. I now have 130k miles.

2010 4.6L v8 rwd

Ps- I also replaced rear diff fluid, but whatever came out looked perfectly fine. I do most of my commute on the roads. Also replaced steering fluid and brake fluid. Also drained and filled radiator coolant.(only whatever was in radiator and expansion bulb)

 

I have a similar situation as I just bought a 2015 sequoia with 115k miles on it with no record of trans, front/rear diff, or transfer case service. I saw some YouTube videos that strongly recommended not touching the trans after 100k if it has never been done before as you might be opening up a can of worms.

I did my own rear diff and transfer case (dealer did the front) changes on my Tundra and I swear it shifted much worse after I did it. Grinding and popping.

Maybe I’m crazy but I don’t think I want to do any of it on the Sequoia.

 

I like the idea to drain a little and add a little each week to slowly acclimate it to new fluid (kind of like a fish) to slowly feel it out and make sure everything is being done properly. Only thing I'm really worried about at this point is bolts snapping which is pretty much guaranteed with the Midwest prone salt roads. I don't want to pay someone else to do it because I'll have no idea if they are doing it right or how bad it actually is/was but I can't really do it myself because it's my daily driver for one and I don't really have space to work on it. It's not that I'm too cheap to pay someone else that has the shop and tools to do it, I just want it done right without having to worry about it and doing it twice.

I'd highly recommend doing it ASAP and getting it over with, I've got to bear the consequences of someone else being in the same boat you are and never touching it up to 250k miles. 115k practically just got broken in, I wouldn't worry as much unless you plan to do it yourself again. If you do do it yourself there's a bunch of really good YouTube video links in another thread going step by step with it and telling you everything you need to look for when changing the fluid on any part of the truck.

 

Well the good news is that the drain-refill thing doesn't require anything but drain and fill bolt removal, so if you do go that route, instead of dropping the pan, you don't have to worry about bolts snapping!

 

hey I’ve seen this advice a bunch and I’d like to follow it, but I have a 2.5gen and did a transmission drain and fill at the dealer recently and it was like >$200 so it’s a bit prohibitively expensive for me at this exact time, but I don’t want to mess with watching the temp and doing it myself. Is one even decent? No service history for trans in the trucks life 102k

 

I’d like to jump in this convo for suggestions. I have a 07 Crewmax 135k to my knowledge the transmission has yet to be touched. I bought it around 60k No issues at the moments. Should I flush or drain and refill? When I ask questions to the Toyota service managers it goes from we recommend this service to you could just wait until it goes out. Appreciate all the suggestions.

 

Learn from my mistakes and get it done. Although I don't know what the underside of your truck looks like I'd like to assume it is in better shape than mine with 120k less miles. I'd go to a trusted mechanic or someone you know with a lift and check out what it looks like inside the pan. I'm planning on doing the same with mine I'm just mentally preparing myself to retrieve the snapped bolts from inside the bottom of my tranny when they inevitably snap off. I wouldn't worry about doing an actual full flush with draining the trans cooler and all that but change the filter while your in there, clean the magnets, etc.

Good Luck!

 

I bought my 2007 with about 90k miles at about 130k miles I had a tranny flush done afterwards it shifted better and smoother before the flush it was more sluggish and shifted slower

 

If your AIP is working fine.. then you dont even need the Hewitt kit at all. You can disable the system altogether by doing some DIY AIP bypass. Search that up on the forums on how to do it. But make sure your system is working as needed before doing the bypass.. cause if you are getting codes then you most likely have something in the system that has a stuck valve or similar that has to be brought back to working order before the DIY AIP bypass kit works.

All the bypass kit does is disable the AIP system at engine start by showing the engine to be at temp <50deg F using the MAF sensor. At which time the ECU disables AIP the system during startup. Which is your desired condition.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dmHEE52BW28

this is on the 4.7l but it all the same for the 5.7l except maybe for the starter relay location.. so just check the schematics for your engine type.

 

This video will help if you are wanting to do the drain and fill based on temp (Toyota recommended) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eRxSu4-4ojo&t=606s

Just did the 2nd one of these on Friday. My truck has 250k and no record of if this had ever been done. The only pain in the butt is refilling the transmission. I used to use a transfer pump attached to my drill, but I had to use a hand pump this time, not fun.

Also check your U-Joints and lube them. the slip joint is supposed to be "lifetime" but when I pulled mine apart it was bone dry with old grease crusted up in there... Just do a search on here for what you need.