Gas tank roll-over valve stuck causes hard fuelling - anyone else?

Got all set to tackle this today. Crammed myself under and behind the tank to access the fill neck/tank connection, pulled it loose and peered inside with my borescope. Couldn't figure out what I was seeing, ended up sticking my finger in there to see what was going on. Found this.

Told my wife she did not marry a smart man. I had a fuel treatment that i was only using a half bottle at a time. Must have been stuck to a half bottle. Then yours truly popped it straight down the filler neck.

On the bright side, no harm done, problem solved, and fills like a champ now.

 

Use a heavy duty 36” zip tie. Fees it down the feeder neck and you should be able to poke the valve a couple times and loosen it up. Mine popped right open

 

Hey y'all.....

I have the same issue with my 2020 Tundra CM. Dealer will be replacing the tank, but they are on a 4 1/2 MONTH nationwide backlog. In the meantime, I put the truck up on my lift and removed the filler hose on top of the tank. From there, access to the anti-siphon "bullseye" and the valve beyond that is pretty simple (same as pictured in post #108). Shoved my remote camera in there and a semi-rigid copper wire to work the valve many times. Low and behold that was enough to "fix" the problem. Just gassed up with 29 gallons and only took 5 minutes.

Hope this helps someone,
.....Dan

 

In May I went to fill up. My 2018 tundra would not take gas. Took it to the dealership. New tank needed. It’s been stuck in the dealership and I won’t get it back until September. I found out there are 600 of these gas tanks on back order. Not covered. What kind of company is Toyota? Makes a gas tank that fails at 47k miles and has no replacement parts available.

 

Why not try the “fix” described in the posts right above yours?

 

Probably some are getting drilled for the purpose of stealing the fuel. Toyota can't really accurately estimate how many cases of that will occur. Also there is a shortage of chemicals needed for resins due to the mess in Europe. Again Toyota wouldn't be able to predict that either. Just try to fix it yourself with the methods above.

 

Dealership will charge labor hours to put it back together plus when the fix does not work labor hours again to take it off again and put new one on

 

If you are anywhere near the Louisville, KY area, I'd be happy to throw it up on my lift and perform the same "fix" as I did to mine. I haven't had any further issues since.

Good luck! I feel your pain (I drove my truck home from Flagstaff, AZ with the "trickle fill" gas issue.)

 

Just a thought, we had a jeep with fuel issues. The dealership replaced many parts at no cost using the emissions warranty that is mandatory in California. You might check with your state’s emissions laws and go that route. For us, pretty much everything that touches the fuel fell under California’s emission laws.

 

Heads up to anyone with this issue. The "fix" I performed above has been fully operational for over 11,000 miles. Providing this as a data point. Again, if anyone is in the Louisville, KY area, I'd be happy to put your truck on my lift for us to perform the "fix".

 

This reminds me that I need to preemptively strike the valve on the new truck. None of that shame on me twice bullshit

 

I’ve been fighting this for the past month on my 2017. Read every form/post there is related to it. My bandaid fix… I took an old lawnmower cable guard, about 3’ long, hooked it to a drill and ran it through the fill neck like a plumbers snake. I wasn’t aggressive with it. It stopped about 8” short and I just kept bumping it until it went through. After the first time it went through, I removed it and went to the pump. It helped tremendously, but it still wouldn’t allow fuel to freely flow. I went back and did it again, but this time I left the cable guard in place and took it back to the pump. This way allowed me to actually lock the pump handle. This took me from 50 minutes to fill the tank to about 10 minutes. I know it’s not a textbook fix, but it’s way cheaper than $3K.

 

I did this minus the lift and taking anything apart. I used some stiff copper wire and slowly meandered it to the bullseye. You can hear the valve-plate open when you push it with the wire - especially if it is warm out. I pushed it open a few times until I felt any gas would open it while pumping.

 

I have a much quicker and easier “fix” for this. I put “fix” in quotes because it solved the problem, but who knows if it will happen again. I’ve filled 3 times since and no more issues.

A quick blast of compressed air down the filler neck did the trick. Here are the details:

I just pushed an air nozzle through a small hole in a plastic baggie, put it into the filler opening and then stuffed a rag tightly into the baggie. The key is to make sure both the filler and vent openings are sealed/blocked. I used a screwdriver make sure the rag was packed in there. One very quick blast of 80 PSI air and you could hear the rollover valve pop and then hear the air flowing back through the vent.

l hope his works for others and saves time and money. I’m investing the money saved for an onboard compressor in case this happens again while on the road somewhere.

 

@asabo427 you are a life saver! This just saved my ass 500 miles from home and was super simple. Worked perfectly, thanks!

 

3 foot zip tie fixed this issue for me. Stuck it down the filler hose to hit the flap and was able to fill my tank just as usual.

 

38 gallon tank rollover valve issue. 52k / 2016 Limited. OOW.
20 minutes to pump 6 gallons of gas.

I too have had the rollover gas tank valve stick closed. How it happens, I’ll never know. Pulled my tank yesterday. Wow there’s many things to disconnect while the tank is being lowered. I took out the gas fill door, the drivers side, wheel, large inner plastic rock/mud cover to see what the challenges were. Along the frame divers side were several hose and wire plastic push tables holding wires and tubes. Removed skid plate, the three straps at bolts and pins along the drive shaft area opposite the bolts.
lowered down with two floor jacks. There’s connectors at the square carbon box. Fuel lines at the front of the tank. The special clips can be removed with small flat blade screw driver.
Got it out. There’s a bulls eye type of plastic guard above the stainless rollover valve as mentioned in other post.
It’s got 3 dimples on the open side of it. Mine was stuck closed as others reported too.
I took a my longest O ring puller I had 8 inches long and a heavy close hanger wire I cut down and bent the valve slightly on each side of the 3 dimple’s to hopefully fix this issue. The top of the tank can be opened at the white 10” bung. I didn’t open it hoping just bending the roll over valve flapper fixes the issue. I went to two separate gas stations, drove around and hit a few non payment places with bumps and pot holes, then to the next fill up and it works. Both gas fill ups were successful.
Thank god…

 

The best fix is remove the flappper. I had to remove the tank to do it, but no problems with it gone. I just have to not roll the truck.