Pre-purchase inspection items?

Sorry for such a basic question (noob), and it goes without saying that obviously not all shops are the same, but...for those who have had experiences getting a PPI done for these things...

do you typically need to ask them to check out issues common to the first gen tundra specifically? or am I typically fine with getting a standard comprehensive inspection done. Do they even catch stuff like that in the PPI?

 

The frame for rust, lower ball joints, the frame, timing belt, the frame.

Oh and don't forget the frame!

 

Yeah I guess the second part of the question is that do I need to tell them all of that or do they see it anyways when they check?

obviously the answer is that its best to ask them anyways, but i'm questioning whether I need to bring a whole grocery list of things that ppl have found wrong in these things.

and yes.. the frame

 

Have them drop the spare: (1) tells you if it works or is all crusted in the up position, and (2) lets you see a lot better (including on top of the X-shaped spare tire crossmember).

 

That I'm not sure. I've never paid for an pre purchase inspection. I would definitely mention specific things you want them to check.

I would inspect it yourself too.

 

Ask if they have a checklist of items they ise when performing the inspection. You want to make sure if they can check items of your concern as well. It may cost extra but it’s peace of mind.

 

Thanks! thats helpful, never really considered asking to see their actual guidelines. Can't see why they would keep that secret knowledge but well see.

 

Another one, the amounts of sellers on fb marketplace ghosting me (do they even want money lol) was astonishingly mindblowing. Thankfully, I think this one is the best one I come across, so I guess patience is a virtue? its a 01, but you know ill take a odd year vs frame rust.

 

Is this for the immaculate red one you were hoping for?

 

maybe.

 

Fingers crossed!

 

Lol its far from immaculate, just good photos and lighting, upon closer look reveals a couple of scrapes, paint chips here and there, but nothing that a little bit of touch up paint wouldn't hide and nothing that is unusual for its age. Still impressively OEM for the most part and clean in its history. Def would be paying a premium for ease of mind about the frame.

 

I would take shifty’s stickied post and make an inspection checklist off of that for your mechanic to use.

 

I've recently paid for 2 pre-purchase inspections after calling about 10-20 different shops in different cities.
I don't call and ask how much. I call and tell them I'll give them $100 if they give the truck a once over. They either like it or they try to sell me on their package.

Out of the shops that did take my offer, I ended up hiring two.
Both inspection reports shared certain items so you should ask for these:
-Serpentine belt
-Arms
-Center bearing

I'm not sure if they checked timing belt so if I could go back and do it all again I would point out for them to spend the 5-10 minutes and do that so I could be sure.

 

Thanks for the advice. Yeah i'm supposed to call around today to see whos avaliable for what. Unfortunately its way out of the area so I am unfamiliar with the reputations of some of these places, but hey... where the fun in buying a truck if everything is simple huh?

 

If same truck, maybe have it run up to the same shop that just did the laundry list of work for almost $3k?

I'd honestly have thought they'd have found plenty of other stuff wrong with it during that visit if there was stuff, and generally tend to make a note of things on the bill if the customer declines. If it was less than 12mos ago, I'd consider that as a pretty damn solid PPI.

I'm weird, I guess. I've literally never had a PPI done on a vehicle. Granted, I've always test driven after checking the vehicle history/receipts, if available, but ... I realize maybe that's not the most do-able in this case. Still, may be able to fill in numerous blanks with what you've got.

 

Side note, lol anyone know of a good

I think you, me, the seller, and even the shop knows that I'd prob take it at this point without a PPI espically given all of my past options... so its more of a formality and making sure its not a ticking time bomb for the drive home. The fact that the seller even encourages me to take my time, get a PPI, and feel comfortable with the buy already tells me a lot about who im working with anyways.

Im suprised theres not a concern that all that work got done in a short period? I guess based on the non-reaction its all stuff that would have needed to get changed anyways.

Side note: Does anyone know if theres a viable back up camera + head unit (carplay cause im spoiled) for the 2001 that allows for dynamic guidelines? Not saying I need it persay, but the old lady is prob gonna use it at some points and I wanna give her all the assistance I can get for the sake of my bumper.

 

LOL just saw this on marketplace for any lurkers, 2D and RC so not for me, but if it was truly garage kept and no rust, 34 k miles is the lowest ive seen yet.

 

Tagging @OHwendTrd in case it's interesting...

 

No concerns with what I saw in the list of maintenance. And IME, it's not uncommon to find that - some folks will have a bill like that from a local shop and get the "Oh shit, I've got a money pit on my hands" sensation, it happens so incredibly often. I've bought almost all my vehicles used, and it's been the case, like, half the time at least.

My Alpine iLX supports CarPlay (wired) and dynamic guidelines. I've got the W650. You'll need the 507 if you want wireless CarPlay though, which almost doubles the cost ($649 vs. $329).

 

Got any links or threads on the installation process for that one? What back up camera are you using for that?

Another side note: know of any active users that live near virginia beach area?

 

Installation process will vary based on the truck you get, depending whether it's got an amp in-dash, etc. I don't think JBL package was on trucks that early, so hopefully easier than others.

Here, I'll copy/paste this from the info-dump thread, regarding audio, 3rd bullet point will take you to the install threads for folks, see what other people have etc.:

• I'll say this first: DON'T BE A FRIGGIN' DOUCHE! Don't be that asshole who cuts the factory wiring harnesses to install a new stereo. There are a ton of cheap plug-and-play adapter harnesses you can buy. Pony up the extra $10-20 for a quality adapter harness and don't cut your factory.
• These trucks were actually fairly well equipped from the factory for their era, with three basic radio setups: A JBL radio with external JBL amplifier, "premium" radio with external (Fujitsu?) amplifier, and standard radio with no amplifier. If you have the JBL radio, it should have the JBL logo silkscreened onto the radio's face, they brand their radio and their amplifier with logos.
• Before you install an aftermarket head unit, you need to identify whether your truck has the external amplifier, because you'll need to bypass it if it's there, else fade/balance won't work, or you just won't get sound! Read this thread for more info on the factory amp and where to find it if you have one, and what you need to do to install an aftermarket stereo. There are ways to retain the factory amp if you really want to, but ... just read that thread and its replies. To see what adapters you need (if you have an amp) check this post. To see what aftermarket radio others on here are running, read this thread. DISCLAIMER: Confirm fitment of any part numbers provided here by going to Crutchfield's or Metra's website before you commit to buying!
• If you're looking to stuff a sub in the rear of your truck ... RC trucks, you'll need to use a wedge box behind the seat, or an under-seat shallow sub. AC trucks, Q-Logic makes a dual 8" box that goes under the rear passenger seat, replacing the under-seat steel cage. DC trucks, any of the storage cubbies under the rear seats can be repurposed for 8" subs and potentially 10", several people here have done installs with 3 x 8" subs.
• For AC owners, your rear doors have ample room for a 6x9" speaker, if that's your desire. As someone who worked in the industry, I'd take a 6x9" over a 6" component any day, I've seen guys do some pretty amazing stuff w/6x9s.
• Steering wheel controls ... oh boy, that's a loaded topic. If you have them, Axxess makes a very simple adapter you can use (ASWC-1) to adapt the controls to an aftermarket head unit, BUT, please do yourself a favor and buy the Metra control adapter (70-8114) to make using it an ultra-plug-and-play experience, it's like $10. If you have an earlier model truck w/o steering wheel controls, it's possible to add them, but you may need a later-model clock spring, you may need to run some extra wires, and the airbag module has a smaller faceplate to make room for the buttons. Later model trucks (04+) it can be a plug-and-play experience. For part numbers and other crap, check this, it'll get you on your way. It's also possible to add the right-hand phone controls, check that last link again.
• For AC/RC trucks, the metal bracket used for the door tweeters can be repurposed to install any number of aftermarket components, example here.
• Consider buying through Crutchfield, not only for the incredible technical support, but they'll also make sure you're loaded up with all the wiring adapters and stuff you need to have the most-plug-and-play experience possible. You can call and talk to them at any point in the install if you have questions. Don't hesitate to call and talk to a technical salesperson to lay out your system! It's free, and they're super knowledgeable, they'll guide you in the right direction. To boot, their pricing is inexpensive - doesn't always beat scAmazon, but you're guaranteed to get non-counterfeit, non-grey market stuff with full, no-hassle warranty and support, which Amazon can't offer.
• For an example camera install using an aftermarket head unit, check this post.

​

 

Oh ....

More details on which cam I used and full details on my backup camera install are HERE.

I can confirm with you, the guidelines for my camera move as I turn the wheels and are accurate to reality.

 

One option for inspections is to use one of your area's mobile mechanics. I have worked with a couple off of my local CraigsList that were pretty good. They all usually have a call-out charge, usually minimal, and then charge hourly for diagnostics. So for maybe $100-150 you could accomplish the same thing with someone who's got no issue hitting the road to check out your truck and they have all the tools they need onboard.

 

I know LexTechs will do PPI for vehicles, and they're in John's Creek. But you'll be spending $$ to get it done. They'll find EVERYTHING though. I personally think it's overkill for the subject vehicle in question but it's not my $$ and I'm not gonna take heat for it if something dies.

 

So along with fluid filming or surface shield on the bottom, is there anything I can do to help rustproof parts of the engine bay or nothing I can really do for that?

 

Do we know for sure if earlier Tundras (Pre-VSC) have the steering position sensor as part of the clock spring? Assuming that's what the head unit is using for the dynamic reverse camera lines. Not sure which year you are looking at purchasing @atomicnugget or if you already bought one.

 

im currently working out a deal on a 2001 ac limited with the stock radio unit

 

Part shows 04-06 which would correspond with the VSC years