Help with zerk fittings

Hello y’all, sorry to revive a likely old topic but I need of a timely assistance.

started my greasing process but have a feeling based on how cruddy it is that the previous seller likely never did any. Admittedly this is my first time doing this myself so I’m prepared for the noob comments.

As such I am having major trouble having the zerk accept the grease. I’m putting my bet that it’s either one of two,

1. my cheap ass gun sucks at locking on (can easily pull it off) and is just pumping grease all over the fitting (does it technically have to lock anyways).

2. it’s been so long that the fitting itself is clogged.

In either case I was wondering if y’all had any tips or know of any attachments that helps.

I don’t have access or the tools to do any grinding/shaving of the gun for a better fit right now.

should I just consider having the shop replace all my zerk fittings with new ones the next time I come in for something?

thx

 

I would try a locking coupler. I had great success with this one on my battery powered grease gun.

Thus would not fit on only one grease zerk on the drive shaft

https://a.co/d/8MFFcuu

 

Can I just add this to any regular gun or do I need a specific type to fit this.

which one fitting are you talking about? I saw some posts talking about having to use a needle, but wasn’t sure if that applied to my 2001 4x4

 

Yes. You unscrew your current push coupler and screw this on in its place.

I can't recall which zerk it was. I think on the front drive shaft.

My experience is with a 2000 4x4. A needle like linked below would be good to have but you need three hands if you're using a lever grease gun instead of a pistol grip grease gun

$12 kloorou 2 Pack Grease Needle Nozzle with Hardened Steel Tips,Needle Nose Grease Dispenser,Narrow Needle Greaser Adapter with 1/8" NPT Threads

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C8SX9H11

 

oh is it bc there’s not enough room for a device to fully sit? I think I noticed that one unless your talking about one being a different type of zerk fitting compared to the rest

 

Really easy to change the zerks. You can buy a multipack of sizes and angles and they just thread in and out like a bolt using a wrench.

 

A cheaper route is to buy a Lincoln coupler 3-prong fitting that just works. It’s what I did with my cheap gun that had the reverse problem. It would grab and next to never come off.

Grainger sells the fittings for a few bucks or you can get them on Amazon.

https://www.grainger.com/product/LINCOLN-Grease-Coupler-3-Jaw-Hydraulic-6Y884

 

anyone know the actual size of the zerks for replacement by chance?

 

Imma tackle it both sides, imma order and try the lock on attachment to see if it works this go around

Then I’ll replace the fittings when I have time to make it easy for future greasings or if the above steps fails.

Thanks for the advices

 

It's going to be dependant on the u joints having been changed or not. Is it a one owner or low mileage?

 

Might want to just consider new u joints if high mileage or unsure of their age

 

high mileage (260k) with two prior owners but good maintenance throughout, just think the previous owner was weakest link in terms of the history of greasing it.

 

I did see somewhere that I should try poking the ball bearing with a small nail to maybe loosen the crud, thinking about giving that a try too

 

I think there are a lot of more expensive options people are suggesting. I would either just get a regular replacement tip for your gun or just push and hold the tip on there while you are pumping the grease. You may have to get creative with how to pump a regular grease gun but it's possible.

As for all your zerks being dirty, I really feel like that's not the case. Maybe one or two but I wouldn't think all of them would be so dirty they won't accept any grease.

 

Pretty sure I saw cobwebs on one of them lol. Nah you’re prob right and really thinking getting that lock attachments gonna do the trick as it likely wasn’t secure enough (i tried every angle I could and tried holding it) I just know after 5 times trying each on multiple zerks and wiping the grease clean each time I wasn’t getting anywhere.

For sure gonna start with the cheapest method and work my way up.

 

Could try putting a torch on the zerk for a few seconds to loosen it up.

 

thought about that, unfortunately don’t have a torch so I tried using my bic lighter on it for a while, then chuckled and realized how idiotic I am lol.

 

I have used a standard lever grease gun by myself for decades. Just got to get positioned right. Jacking up the truck, putting the tranny in neutral, and then spinning (by hand) the drive line(s) makes it much much easier.

 

No idea OP, just want to say how satisfying that sound is when you fill it up so much that it breaks the old gunk seal and grease kind of splooges out around the sides of the fitting.

 

you should hear the sound it makes when it fails to accept the grease and just ooze out the sides everywhere and all over my fingers… it wasn’t until after that I realized the sound was just me screaming

 

Zerks/greasing tips: https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st...-inside-fuse-box-diagram.129266/#post-3295714

Zerk sizing, for replacement: https://www.tundras.com/threads/04-dc-4wd-slip-yoke-greasing-problem.127260/#post-3249347

Don't get 1/4 zerks. They look the same size; they aren't.

 

I have a similar problem with the zerks on my front driveshaft. I've never been able to get grease in them, even after trying various types of grease gun nozzles/adapters (including the needle type). If you find out how to fix this, please let us all know. I also tried to replace the zerks in the front driveshaft, but they would not unscrew. They appear to be integral to the u-joint, or else they are in there so tight or rusted that they won't come out. Oddly enough, I have no problem greasing any fittings along the rear driveshaft.

Thanks

 

Finally got the beautiful sound of expelled grease from the seals.

got that lock n lube adapter which did the trick on my zerk issues. Got the needle adapter to use on my double cardon. What might have helped is poking all the ball bearings with the needle tip in case it needed some loosening up.

In case anyone cares I used Mobil grease Xhp 462 moly for my double cardon and red and tacky for everything else.

I also wrapped my screwdriver with shop paper towels to get the old grease in hard to reach places for cleanup.

Learned my lesson in wearing a hoodie too this time around since my first oil change with this guy left a nice little gash on my arm lol