Front exterior doors

Sweet Jesus that price. Would it be cheaper to add an overhang above the door? The doors condition doesn't look to bad. Can it be refurbished?

 

Can you just replace the slab or are you dead set on the whole thing?

 

I'm figuring even custom sizing it shouldn't be too bad for the slab

 

I’ll just buy a single pre hung and frame it out and put some wood siding around stain it and call it good or you could drop 15k for a door like this

 

I cant beleive a door costs as much as a car

 

Renewal by Andersen is a rip off, the door is not an Andersen product, it’s a Provia door.

Way too much money for what you get, a window made of sawdust and vinyl mixed together and a vinyl cap-stock applied. Poor color retention with the vinyl and very brittle.

 

Provia about 12k

 

Good lord!

That is all.

 

I think they are Mennonite but it doesn’t matter they are very close.

Good products but very overpriced. Your can find a quality Therma Tru unit for half price depending on the contractor.

Again, Fiberex is nothing special, sawdust and vinyl mixed together, just Andersen’s exclusive design. You can probably get Andersen 400 series windows cheaper and have a much better product. Just make sure they do full frame replacement, not insert application.

Higher quality windows would be Marvin, Kolbe or Loewen. Stay away from Pella they are crap now.

 

You might also look at Sierra Pacific H3, it’s a hybrid window, extruded heavy clad exterior, vinyl main frame and solid wood interior. Make sure if you are going to use a dark exterior color upgrade to the AAMA 2605 paint.

 

Yes, I have sold windows and doors since 1987.

I am an old wood window guy and have see most of them and have seen vinyl become the dominate window. Not because they are the best but because they are the cheapest.

All of the quality wood window companies in the US are located in the Northern part of the country and are tested in extreme cold conditions.

Over 5,500 > you will not have argon filled units because of breather tubes to equalize the pressure at elevation. No argon is not a bad thing most commercial units are produced with air fill.

Vinyl at extreme cold conditions is going to get brittle, the way aluminum cladding it is applied to the sash it should not conduct, or greatly reduce conduction, to the interior. It all is really dependent on the glass and perimeter spacer that is used.

I have done several projects in the mountains over the years but I am far from being an expert at elevation. You would best best served to go to Denver or Colorado Springs and see the products in a showroom and do your own evaluation.

By the way, Yes Andersen is a quality product and a first class company, I am just not a fan of their Renewal division which is just a franchise deal set up with high pressure sleazy vinyl window companies in the various markets markets around the country. Look at their 400 Series line of casements, wood window with a shrink wrapped vinyl covering. It is a proven product been in production for well over 50 years.

Again it’s best you go see them and come to your own conclusion.

 

Since you are in Colorado Discount Windows and Siding on Broadway right in the mousetrap… did my door and sidelights for a fair price lots of options and install. Talk to Shawn, she runs the office. I’ll post a pic of my door.

 

I understand customer service and it just kills be to hear stories about dealers blowing people off. For years aluminum clad companies designed windows to be able to replace the glass (reglaze) in case of seal failure or glass breakage. Well they all found out it is impossible to keep the water out from behind the cladding onto the wood if you are going to try and reglaze. Most companies have now changed the design of the window sash and they are permanently sealed. If the glass breaks or fails it is a full sash replacement. Stay away from brand P they still use the same re-cladding design from the 90’s, they use cheap thin aluminum exterior roll formed cladding with an inferior silicone polyester paint AAMA2603 that fades terribly. Their products are poor quality and not durable over the long run. Big name poor performance.

On your entry door, you will get the best and longest lasting finish if you paint the exterior and paint or stain the interior. Stain on the exterior is just a continual maintenance item. That applies to a wood door or textured fiberglass.

 

Man I’d just caulk, fill and paint the wood unless you really want to spend big bucks/change the style.

 

I agree, that would be my recommendation.

 

@BlueRibbon4x4 do you have any tips?

 

This! If this is truly solid wood it’s easy! Sand down, fill, sand down! Then you have your choice either stain it or paint it.
You can go down to your local Sherwin Williams or whatever is local paint store and talk to the pros.
Or find a pro to do it for you, $1500-2500 maybe. But I would definitely think twice before removing them.