What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

It lays on empty for awhile before the light comes on. I've never put more than 22 gallons in it even with the light on.

 

Welcome to the forum! OEM LBJs, right?

 

lucky….. I’ve got no fuel light. Pulled the instrument cluster and changed the bulb, and still get nothing.
Just to be sure, I’ve ran it completely outta gas a couple times

 

@shifty` whats that stop-leak stuff you swear by? XX-205? 215?
I’ve got a cam seal leak that’s gotten probably too bad for your stuff, but before I do all that I may give it a shot.
So, I’ve got about 215k miles now. Did the timing belt at 154 (kicking myself for not doing cam and crank seals at that time). So I’ve logged roughly 61k on the belt which is 2-1/2 years old.
Question is, if I pull it all apart to replace the cam and crank seals next weekend, would I be a fool to not replace the TB/WP, even though it’s only been 2-1/2 years.

 

Atp AT-205

 

Thank you sir

 

Try the AT-205 first. Give it 100-200 miles to cycle and refresh everything. Curious to see if your experience is as good as mine and others who've tried it now.

 

To be fair, it’s what you’d probably consider a massive leak. Drops on the ground at every stop. They sell that stuff at my nearest LAPS? AutoRielly’s?

 

Advance Auto Parts has it here. You sure it's just cam seals? That sounds excessive, but maybe I got lucky.

 

Well, been leaking awhile and only getting worse. I think it’s actually both cam seals, and likely the crankshaft seal as well. Whatever it is, it’s all up front and it’s moist

 

I brought some home on my jack hahah

 

I used a bottle in my 03 about a month ago and it stopped leaking for two weeks and started leaking again. I have a second bottle... I just don't have anywhere to go and you're supposed to drive on it for a few hours. Nor money to waste on gas since I'm currently a bum.

 

I would probably go ahead and do it just because I wouldn't want to mess with it again for another 9 years/90k.

But I would also understand not wanting to pay for the parts again so soon.

 

Like shifty said, advanced auto is the only shop I've been able to find it in.

 

I've used it to no avail on both tundras. I guess both mine had too bad of leaks. At least the 4x4 got all new gaskets so no more leaks.

 

If you do it all again, would be great to get a thread on it(not sure if there’s one already). Been considering doing mine again cause I don’t know if my mechanic used an OEM TB. Opened the cover, rotated, no writing on belt…

 

Just realized I still need to send you those seals I bought. Gotta dig them out of my pile of parts. I wouldn't change the belt/pump if oil hasn't got on it. Go another 50k and then change your tb/wp and fan bracket.

 

FWIW, when I did it last, the 'OEM' belt that came with all the rest of the OEM parts, didn't have some of the same markings that I'd seen on many of the videos I had watched. I ended up taking the belt into the dealership to verify it was authentic. The parts guy and a tech both inspected it and told me it was indeed their Toyota/Aisin belt. The explanation, as I understood it, was that Aisin makes their parts for a number of companies/distributors, and they're not all marked the same. That's why you're able to find two of the same parts with different markings, which is an indication they're from different distributors.
I'm not saying this is the case with yours, just lettin you know that 'no writing on belt' doesn't necessarily mean that it's fake

 

I honestly wiped it down pretty well, it was fully saturated. But yeah, sorry bout that

 

I remembered you saying something about sending me those, but it's been a minute and I didn't know if you still had em or if the offer still stood. PM me cost and shipping amount, and I'll shoot you some venmo love. If this AT-205 is a failed attempt, then I'll be doing this next weekend. Muchas gracias

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/electric-window-and-door-lock-conversion.131263/#post-3340405

 

I need to get my hands on them first, but they are yours free of charge.

 

Truck gave me a scare this morning...
turned the key, clkclkclkclkclk, "wtf was that? I don't like that".
turned the key again, clkclkclk *engine starts and runs normal*

I'm hoping that she was just a little jealous, as I replaced the alternator and spark plugs in my sister's jeep this weekend, but we'll see.

 

Have your battery tested.
Re-check your battery terminals/connections.

It's likely one of those two things. Either that or you've got some parasitic drain, like you left the dome lights on inside the truck since last startup.

 

Yeah I was think it might be the battery, getting close to it's "best by" date.

"Don't worry, don't worry. I'm not going to do what everyone thinks I'm gonna do...rip off the intake plenum and just flip out, man!"

 

What could be causing this squeaking when spinning the rear wheels? Sound is coming from transfer case area. Crazy loud, turns lots of heads when driving in town. Grinding and squealing sound. Directly related to speed and wheel spinning. Braking doesnt effect sound. Transmission shifts smooth, 4wd works. No play in rear wheels.

https://youtu.be/tK0aAhxiMR8

 

Tcase have fluid in it?

 

Looks like all the fluid is slug up onto the tunnel

 

Sounds like a bird might be stuck in there.

 

I'm gonna show my intelligence here but I'm not sure. I would think so since the truck moves. Crack open the fill bolt and stick a finger in there?