2nd Gen Non-JBL Head Unit Sub & Amp Installation

After acquiring a hand-me-down Kicker sub and Alpine amp, and scouring numerous Tundra and audio forums online to collect bits and pieces of info, I figured I would make an install thread in hopes that someone else benefits from it in the future.

A few disclaimers:

• I'm cheap. The equipment is cheap. I'm happy with it. Buy what makes you happy with it.
• I'm not an audiophile. I spliced, crimped, and buried wires as convenient for me. Take your time and remove interior items if you want a polished product.
• Install was performed on a 2012 Crewmax w/ a front bench seat and no JBL (factory amplifier is built into the head unit).
• This thread is also resourceful

Items installed:

• KICKER 43C104-N Bundle with Universal Regular Standard Cab Truck Comp C10 Single 10" Sub Box Enclosure - Final 4 Ohm https://a.co/d/f3Ggm4m
  
• MRV-M500 - Alpine Monoblock 500W RMS V Power Series Car Amplifier
  $165 MRV-M500 - Alpine Monoblock 500W RMS V Power Series Car Amplifier
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C2FA5VA
• Planet Audio AC800.4 4 Channel Car Amplifier - 800 Watts, Full Range, Class A/B, 2-4 Ohm Stable, Mosfet Power Supply, Bridgeable https://a.co/d/ieeW21R
• NVX XLCA2 X-Series 2-Channel Line Out Converter Digital Bass Enhancer with xBOOST and Remote Level Control
  $45 NVX XLCA2 X-Series 2-Channel Line Out Converter Digital Bass Enhancer with xBOOST and Remote Level Control
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XJ77BHB
  
• RECOIL MFH12 2 Way Mini-ANL Fused Distribution Block, 1 X 0/2/4 Gauge in / 2 X 4/8 Gauge Out Fused Distribution Block with 60A, 80A, 100A Fuses, Solid Brass for Maximum Power Transfer
  $17 Recoil MFH12 2 Way Mini-ANL Fused Distribution Block, 1 X 0/2/4 Gauge in / 2 X 4/8 Gauge Out Fused Distribution Block with 60A, 80A, 100A Fuses, Solid Brass for Maximum Power Transfer
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097T5T1TB
• TOPSTRONGGEAR 4 Gauge Amp Kit True 4 AWG Amplifier Installation Wiring Amp Kit Install Cables https://a.co/d/e42Q4Y0
• HOSONGIN 2-Pack Ultra-Durable RCA Y-Splitter Cable 2 Male to 1 Male | 3.3ft (1M) | 24K Gold-Plated | Hi-Fi Sound | Durable Nylon Braid | for Home Theater, Audio Systems, Amps & Mixers https://a.co/d/iRNDDZt

Many thanks to @Danimal86 for entertaining my questions on a separate thread in order to get this job done.

I did this in small time-frames over a few days. This job could be done in a single day if time allowed.

I first decided to get my wiring through the firewall. If you pull the driver side plastic trim and kick panel you will be able to see a rubber grommet for factory wiring, which makes a great place to run power to the battery. I just made a small incision and ran the wire through. I've developed a nice trick over the years of electrical taping wires to the end of a metal clothes hanger and fishing from the inside into the engine bay. Worked this time as well. I drilled a couple of holes in the plastic for the factory fuse panel enclosure and snaked the wire through there w/ an inline fuse, then connected to battery.




The next day I started tearing into the dash to access the head unit. Just use the below link / vid:
https://www.tundras.com/threads/tutorial-how-to-remove-stereo-2007-2013-tundra.2488/
If you have a front bench like I do, post #4 in this thread also helps:
https://www.tundras.com/threads/rem...ront-center-bench-seating.36505/#post-2477933




Now the fun began. Tundras seem to have various stereo wiring depending on generation and trim. Once I had the HU removed, I compared my setup to a couple of diagrams I found online. Using a voltmeter, I was able to confirm my wiring matched the below diagram (taken from the below link, post #2):
https://www.tundras.com/threads/speaker-wire-color-configuration-2012-tundra-sr5.61954/#post-1624490



I taped out the lines I needed...and then I just started splicin' (Forest Gump voice).





I was diligent to tape/mark all wires as I fished them through the dash and behind the HU so that I wouldn't have to guess what was what when it came time to connect to equipment. If you have a ton of different colored wire on hand this isn't much of a problem. I had a ton of the same colored speaker wire on hand... There's also a harness you can purchase which eliminates having to cut into the factory wiring harness. Go that route if you aren't confident in cutting or just want to keep things cleaner.


First couple of wires fished through. I ended up pulling from this location and moving directly behind the HU and fishing down to the floor to avoid any issues with putting the climate controls back in place.


Rats nest after all of them were done.


Now begin to crimp/ connect everything to the HU and speakers.

Wires into LOC:

• Front Left + (output)
• Front Left - (output)
• Front Right + (output)
• Front Right - (output)
• 12V
• Grnd
• ACC

Wires out of LOC:

• Main Output (with RCA splicers for the 4ch speaker amp)
• Bass Output (with RCA for the sub amp)
• Remote On

Wires into amp dedicated for speakers. These wires ran from the amp to the respective speaker wires cut at the HU harness:

• Front Left +
• Front Left -
• Front Right +
• Front Right -
• Rear Left +
• Rear Left -
• Rear Right +
• Rear Right -

Tape any cut and open-ended wires that remain. I snapped this photo during the process, but cleaned everything up before final install.


Next I fished the speaker wires under the carpet and beneath the passenger seat to the amp and LOC, then connected accordingly.




This diagram is what setup should like look (or similar, depending on equipment):



This photo is before pwr, grnd, and remote wires were hooked up to the amp. Note: I split a remote wire off the LOC to each amp. After a little research, this didn't seem to be a problem with the limited amount of draw the remote wire has.


Next, I ran the power cable we first installed to the back, under the driver seat. Snake it through the trim and come out either side of the seat belt, whichever is preferred. I then installed the power distribution block (w 100amp fuses) to power the amps. You'll have to figure out where to bury the power (along side the remote wire) depending on your seat configuration. I pulled a panel on the back of the middle seat for the bench and hid it there.


Then connected power to the amps, grounded each amp to a seat bolt on either side, connected RCAs, remote, and connected the sub to the Kicker and bury those wires with the sub behind the rear seat. Disregard the mess. These were in progress photos.










Lastly, I ran the bass control knob from the LOC, under the front bench, up the driver side door/floor trim and kick panel, and will eventually mount it near my trailer brake controller.

Power everything on and confirm it works before burying lines permanently and/or remounting the HU. Adjust the LOC for quality, and enjoy your amplified speakers and bass.

 

Glad you got it all setup. How does it sound?

 

Sounds is good. Much more power to the speakers now, and having bass is refreshing. I still need to adjust LOC and amp to clean things up, though. Busy weekend with family made for a quick and dirty job with the time I could find.

I did discover a power draw last night that I'm trying to track down. I initially had the LOC setup to power on by speaker signal while also wired to draw remote power from the acc wire I tapped into. I've since change settings to pull solely off remote - haven't been able to confirm it that fixed yet or not

I also need to clean up some wiring because it's just sloppy right now (consequences of quick and dirty).

 

Yeah, having the 12v remote trigger everything is going to be the best bet!

You may want make an amp rack and get your amp and loc off the carpet. i've seen people make some cool stuff out of PVC or acrylic or like what i have is a piece of MDF and some feet on it (i'm pretty sure i put pictures in my build log...link in my signature)....you dont want to accidentally turn on the floor heater and be blasting your amp with hot air.

 

I'll have to check out your build, that's a great point/idea!

 

Little update. I cleaned up all of the wires and put spade/terminal connectors on everything in/out of the LOC and amps for peace of mind. This also rectified the power draw I was having, so I assume some of the hairs from the power cable were touching the remote on one of the amps and allowing everything to stay on.

 

Final update. Was getting a lot of feedback still post-install, to the point that I was going to give up and just get an aftermarket head unit. The other day while connecting to my tablet, I noticed all of the downloaded playlists had disappeared so I reconnected my phone (Pixel 7 Pro) to the factory HU for the drive. Immediately rectified all shitty sound. So word of caution to others taking this project on - don't buy a scamazon tablet for Bluetooth streaming I'm sure a quality tablet is just fine, but the cheapo I purchased specifically to live in the pickup is now a gift to the kid.