What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I thought about that, definitely. I'd also like to find something brighter than what's there, and ditch the frayed ass wiring. Someoen really butchered up the wiring in this thing. Lots of dents and dings in the metal, I've straightened out a lot. This thing had a hard life.

 

I'm not a fan of using wht as a ground and grn as a hot.

 

I’m a fan of matching Toyota colors.

 

Frame is finally done with paint. Still have to prep and paint leaf spring mounts, cross members, and miscellaneous parts.

Trying to document the process as best as I can thanks to guidance from @N84434 on his “My 2001 TRD Access Cab Repair/Modify Thread”

 

NICE

 

I don't know about your fancy TPMS stuff but I don't think the Cargo LP fuse runs the 3rd brake light, I think it's just the cargo lights, not for sure though.

 

Nice! If I ever score a replacement frame and a place to do the replacement, I’d be interested in doing a galvanized dip myself for rustproofing.

 

I think I missed something. Did you get a new frame or just revive and old one? It looks new. Nice work either way.

 

Very nice work on your frame! I think I'll pull the bed off mine in the spring and do some similar work.

In my case I had bought a bunch of lumber and drywall and had it in my truck bed. Parked it in the garage to protect the materials from the rain. Finally got around to installing the drywall and using most the lumber, so I basically emptied my truck bed.

 

I just called them. They said my order was on-hold so it never processed (yet they took my $$$). Guy on the other end of the call said he processed the order through and hopefully will see something come through in 4-6 weeks when Toyota releases another batch. So looks like I'm probably a good 6wks behind you there bud, maybe I'll get lucky and get something in January

Hopefully I don't get burned on this one, because I didn't tell them to off-hold my order, that would really piss me off.

 

Got dang that looks nice! Way better than mine ever looked. Great work

 

OOooohhh, the saga continues...

They called back 90 minutes after I asked them to un-hold the order. I dumped the call by accident. So I called back when I realized who it was.

Turns out they never transferred funds, and it was too late for them to force PayPal to release funds. So dude had to run up a new order, sadly, and I charged it out. Still looking at ~$100/CV shipped, so they honored the price, but I'm unfortunately at the back of the line. He told me they've been seeing 3-6 week turnaround on things, despite national backorder. They just emailed a new receipt in typical dealership format. So @bmf4069 you may still want to go through with it, I dunno, maybe/maybe not. Parts are trickling through as Toyota gets them or puts them together. It doesn't look like they're using cores to re-man anymore.

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Wired my camper shell dome lights and 3rd brake light with oddly similar results to @shifty` . Had just the outside three on each side working. Used a 4 flat plug to wire it in. Left the 4th unused wire out. May add a power outlet or something.

 

I'm guessing the center one goes out first because that's where the wire pass-thru is, from outside world to inside the fixture. Water probably gets in and corrodes the contacts on that middle board. Funny part is, it flickers on/off sometimes I saw yesterday. If yours measures 10" across the top and 9.5" across the bottom, Kaper II has one that should fit your cap just like mine. And it's basically what appears to be installed right now. Their p/n is L15-0018 and it's $14ish on the scAmmerzon. Mine is just held in with double-sided tape, not sure if yours is too. I'd look for fasteners on the inside first.

I planned to get out on my truck and check the tow pkg trailering wiring to see if/which ones are always-on, maybe I could snatch a dome light feed. I grabbed the TR-05 kit from Nilight for lighting, and that switch you reco'd.

 

I got the dome light feed from the 7 pin that was added to the truck. Has an old school halogen lamp in there now, likely swap for some LED strips like my other truck has.

 

I saw there were a few kits out there to do similar with the 7-pin OEM receptacle. I'd like to pull a little earlier and ideally would like to intercept at the rear of the driverside framerail, then everything up through the tail light housing along with Dave's DIR kit, then feed the trio of wires in (gnd, brake, constant)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BNxjVSmHHWU​

 

Door perimeter seal and new rear door skirt flap ... ordered. Hopefully this bastard rear door will be slam-ready by the weekend.

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Got the exhaust cutout put in yesterday. (Hard to see but there are two sets of outputs here, one does continue back to a factory style muffler.)


Works great, just have to mount the switch and put the final interior plastics back in. Works just like I hoped it would, not too obnoxious and thankfully it doesn't drone. I think it has to do with the fact that I was able to point the dump out the side, as opposed to when the exhaust was missing and pointing towards the bed and it would drone terribly.

This unit fit where I was hoping it would, but just barely. Nice to be able to go from loud to quiet with just the flick of a switch.

I ran the wiring up through the grommet that sits under the passenger side storage cubby (where my amp power wire and backup camera wire come in too) since it was mere inches away from the exhaust cutout location, ran the wire around to the driver side to the module which gets switched ignition power from the single blank fuse spot in the top left of the interior fuse panel.

 

Would definitely be worth it if you have the facility to do it.

It’s the original frame. Noticed surface rust behind the frame stiffeners and that led all the way to this point. Chasing down surface rust forming. I’ll have a full write up after I’m done with before and after pictures.

Thanks!

I can now say, I know what you went through getting the frame rivets off lol

 

Angle grider to grind down the head, then $35 air chisel with the punch bit (left-most) to tap it out on-center. 2-3 minutes tops for each rivet. I can't tell you how many times I've run that rodeo. Any other method and you're killing yourself for no reason.

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I'm gonna hafta remember that trick.

 

Well, if you don't have a retirement program you can't lose it in a divorce.

 

Yessir, I angle grinder’d down or did the cross hatch pattern then used a harbor freight chief air hammer with chisels then air hammer punches.

Some of them required me to drill through them with drill bits before they’d punch out. Feel like a rivet expert now after trying all the wrong ways before deciding this was the fastest way.

 

Once you do a few dozen, they come out like butter! '

I know some dudes who skip the grinder totally and use the sharp chisel (far right bit out of the 4 in my pic) to knock the head off then punch the rivet out. I could never seem to get up under the damn rivet head that way.

 

Would the donut fit paint to paint or glass to glass?

Truk Inflatable window boot # TC200 24" x 16" Plastic (BT3000) for truck cap
$22.92
Craftmasters Auto Accessories | eBay Stores

 

I like the way it sounds, that's it. I know it's not a real popular opinion here but I like it. The connection joint this replaced was leaking anyway so I pretty much had no choice but to do this of course.

 

I'm not sure, but I saw that also. It comes in two sizes also, I think there's a size smaller than that one you pictured.

I was sad, they technically didn't have the correct rear door flap for my cap. My cap is currently using this flap, but this company seems to be the only one carrying it (that I can find): https://truckoutfittersplus.com/topper-door-seal-double-leaf-with-offset-t.html

 

Ahh speaking of ground wires. I've started to notice a whine when driving to work in the morning. Increases/decreases with the rpm's and, if I use the window switches while driving, it's even louder.

 

You have an aftermarket stereo, by chance? Aftermarket amp? Poor grounding with aftermarket audio is a common issue that lends to alternator whine. So is running unshielded low-level wires (RCA, etc.) and even speaker wires near anything that generates power, or in long runs side-by-side with power. "Alternator whine" is what we always called it bitd.