RainMan's 2021 Lunar Rock TRD Pro Build

yes. it is working. I plugged my iPhone 15 into it the other day on the way home (I'm usually using my modified Scosche magsafe charger) and it was charging it very well. I couldn't find a setting anywhere that said exactly what it was pulling for power, but it seemed to gain % charge pretty quick.

 

@RainMan_PNW - OK, so I'm an idiot and forgot the actual question I wanted to ask. LOL

Obviously this works for charging. My bigger concern (long-term) is whether or not there is an option to do the same thing for the *DATA* port. If not, it's not a huge issue - there are tons of USB-A > USB-C cables out there...but in a half-decade or so, such may not be the case.

 

OK - so the DATA port is a separate component. This dual-port is charging only and the connector only has two wires for charging.
I was actually already heading down the path of investigating the data port. I've located what looks to be a compatible shaped USB-C port for that spot, but now am working on actually getting a part number and a view at what the connector on the back side looks like to see if there is any cross-compatibility.

Stay tuned...

 

And there’s no additional parasitic amp draw with either of those two Blue Sea battery switches?

 

The 7700 draws no current in the switching mechanism ON or OFF.

The 7713 that I went with draws 8mA OFF and 13mA ON.

 

thanks for the reply. A measly 8 miliamps shouldn’t be a parasite draw issue then.

For normal offroad only 4x4’s, i wouldn’t be too concerned about installing some sort of 12v power disconnect from the winch, but for any vehicle that will be on the streets, no doubt it’s MUCH safer to install some sort of power disconnect. If (or unfortunately likely for many of us) you get in a front end collisions and the winch power cable gets smooshed (which is super common), ain’t no extinguisher is going to stop a fire when your battery welding under the hood.

I need to wire up a winch in my sister’s Ram truck, and i’ve been trying to decide just which battery cutout i want to install for her. Warn sells a solenoid version (which i’ve used before in the past), but mechanical solenoids aren’t the most reliable part. They tend to get moisture inside and then fail to operate.

 

Hey brother thanks again for all information. I was finally able to get the front camera all mounted up and working as expected. I love it.
Big thanks to @TRDFerguson as well!

 

Happy Birthday!!!!!
You don't strike me as a cake eater, so here's some Holiday

 

Cheese cake

 

Unfortunately, I hit a dead end trying to get USB-C DATA port working.

I got my hands on the USB-C data port from a GR Corolla (same size blank) and tried to get it wired up. Unfortunately, the USB-C ports have a different connector that has an additional 4 more pins/wires between the HU and the port. So even landing the right wires for data, the port doesn’t work without the additional wiring.

So I’m back to just the factory USB-A and then keeping a few of these little adapters in the truck.

 

Switched out the 3-Switch Panel Insert in my truck with V2.

This version installs in the shifter trim for the SR/SR5/Limited trim trucks. Specifically, Toyota Part Number 58805-0C090-C0

https://www.tundras.com/posts/3510057

 

Can you mount the C port and wire up a C connector hanging out the back of it, then put the adapter on that - behind the console - connected to the A port that is also hidden behind the console?

 

Not the factory Toyota one - it’s got a proprietary connector on it.

Brown is the current USB-A
Black is the USB-C


If someone made a blank with just a USB-C pass-through port (like the RJ45 ones) then maybe that would work.

But my experience with CarPlay and AA is that the more connectors and cables and adapters you have between the phone and the head unit, the more issues or glitches you encounter…

 

Started prepping the OnX6 50” roof light bar today…this thing is a BEAST. Swapped out the two outboard lenses with amber, similar to how the 40” S8 in my bumper is set up. Gotta figure out the hardware for mounting it to the Sherpa rack next, but I’ve got some ideas.


HUGE thank you to those who were involved in this thing showing up on my doorstep on Christmas Eve.

Update 3/13/24 - Over the past week, I finally got a chance to get this mounted.
First off, I picked up the Sherpa Equipment mounting bracket kit specifically for the OnX6. They include the drop-in track nuts and bolts for attaching to the front cross-bar on the rack, so that simplifies things tremendously.

I need to get some more detailed pictures of the install and routing, but I ran a 4/14 direct bury cable up the passenger side of the windshield (using the Baja Designs wire hider that was also added to the delivery) and then up to the roof rack. In the engine bay, it's routed around the back of the engine along with future amp power lead and my passenger side ditch light power, and then up to the Switch Pros.

Here's how it looks (currently) on the truck.


Update 3/16: See this post for a few more bits of information.
Flipped the mounting brackets around to lower the light a little. And I got some pictures of the wire routing.

Starting at the roof, the light bar is terminated to a factory 2-pin weatherproof connector. On the end of a 14/4 direct bury cable, I have it split out to two separate factory 2-pin connectors (one for future - either chase lights or area lighting). I'm using nylon cable loops along with stainless button head cap screws and drop-in 10-32 nuts for the track to support and route the cabling.


Up under the wind cowl, there's another nylon cable loop to secure the wire as it drops into the windshield wire hider (that one was a bitch to get installed).


Coming out under the wind fairing, it drops into the Baja Designs wire hider track.


Then at the bottom of that it slips under the rubber lower trim piece to sneak down by the hood hinge.


Follows along side the wire for my ditch light under the black hood "cushion" along the fender.


Then it routes to the front of the air box before dropping down and back along the factory wiring harness to behind the junction/connector box by the ECU and then along the harness behind the engine.


Finally, I follow the main wiring harness back around toward the fuse box, before sneaking behind that and around to come up and connect to the rats nest I have at the switch pro connections (which I plan to clean up when I replace my battery here before much longer).


Finished (lower) position

 

Damn....OnX6 and S8!?!?

 

Hoping there will be enough light to burn shadows into the seats of oncoming assholes with HID bulbs in standard housings.

 

Planning on using your roof rack mount as a ground and save yourself a cable run?

 

Not sure I’m that confident in using anodized aluminum and stainless rivets as part of the ground path.
The mystery box also included the BD wire hider kit, so I’ll probably use that. I’ll also probably run a common ground for the chase lights and the light bar and put a junction connector up at the roof.

 

BD's will do it. I have their squadron for fogs up front and a couple aux/ a'hole-tailgaiter-repeller work lights on the rear bumper.
I've got 6 other pods to mount whenever I have some time. Two for ditch lights, and four that I'm planning to mount on the front bumper bar.

 

Yooo. Where did the get the spacer from?

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/rai...-insert-and-more-to-come.135320/#post-3428397

 

Had no idea he was providing us with some. Thanks

 

He as in Casey as in OP as in @RainMan_PNW?

 

Yes the mfing legend. Love his and your build

 

Overhead, I'm thinking you should go all spot lenses

 

Oh yeah? Where's your roof bar