Replacement carpet for a DC…

Sorry, I accidental posted in the builds section previously.

Does anybody know a source for a replacement carpet kit for a double cab? Besides the dealership that is.

 

eBay for used OEM carpets; aftermarket I couldn’t tell you offhand.

 

I’m admittedly hung over, but I don’t know why I didn’t think of that first.

 

Nothing on EBay either. Double cab Tacoma’s yes, but not the DC Tundra.

 

Are you looking for the full carpet to replace the entire floor? Or just the mats?

If the entire carpet: https://www.tundras.com/threads/first-gen-oem-floor-mat-question.76389/page-2#post-2933661

If just the mats: https://www.tundras.com/threads/first-gen-oem-floor-mat-question.76389/#post-2472821

You're not just going to hit fleaBay and find OEM mats. Once every 6-8 weeks a set comes up, ranging from NOS to mildly used, and wildly variable colors. Only way you'll score them is if you have search alerts setup, they go quickly. And furthermore, trying to find one for your cab type isn't always easy, since AC and DC mats have different rears, fronts are slightly different, and there are about a dozen different interior colors.

I'm sitting on some medium-grayish ones, full set, open-box, in near-perfect condition. I scored on eBay. It took almost 2-3 years before I managed to find em.

 

Doesn't Rock Auto have carpet kits?

 

Not mats, full replacement carpet kit.

I also looked at the Stockinteriors.com but they only have access cab, or 2ng Gen double cabs.

 

Rock Auto has the carpet kit for the Access Cab only.

 

I would call them. Maybe they can source it for you.

 

Responded to the build thread question (maybe time to just merge the two forums....):

No eye deer. But, there's a guy on youtube who did 2 or 3 videos on removing his AC carpet; bayou rat or something? Worth a watch whether you decide to clean or replace since he shows every little bolt and screw and plastic thingy. His really looked pretty good after a powerwashing, but he shows some areas where he got into it too much and made the carpet look a little "fuzzy" (though that could probably be fixed with some scissors or one of those lint shavers).

 

I have a 07' crewmax and the carpet smells bad. They have discontinued the CM rear carpet, so I considered buying the DC cab carpet in the same color which I thought would get me to from the front (its once piece) to under the rear seat of the crewmax at which point I would be fine with it not being perfectly and would find some similar. Based off your post, it doesnt sound like that is going to work? I would have thought toyota made the same truck all the way up till the point the cab was extended that extra foot or whatever to save on manufacturing, carpet variations etc.

 

Honestly ... not even sure, but I doubt it. The discussion above is for the 1st gen, 2000-2006, which has a different floor pan (and plan) than the 2007+.

If you know 100% the issue isn't tied to an active water leak into the cab (i.e. mildew), an ozone generator will kill even the worst odors in a vehicle if run for long enough. Make sure you air out the truck after running it overnight.

If the issue IS tied to a water leak, fix the leak. Then pull the seats, pull the carpet and have it professionally cleaned. If odors persist, ozone it. Just be aware: Mildew is serious shit. Once it gets embedded into plastics and rubber (like "oh shit" handles, door handles, dash), it's virtually impsosible to kill the roots.

 

Where's JC Whitney when you need him. Could always buy carpet kits there.

 

Yeah, but did you ever pick one of those up? Their idea of a press-fit carpet was a bit of a joke. It was molded. Or at least molded(ish).

 

Didnt even recognize that. On the ozone issue, I had a quart of boat motor oil behind the seat that had a cap that leaked. Now the whole carpet is permeated with oil. I have removed it and pressure washed it but its still pretty foul. Would an ozone generator touch that? Interesting idea. Thanks.

 

Dawn soap for the oil

 

I'm not sure if it will or not. It's an interesting idea, but with oil being what it is, I've got some doubts.

Fun side story on that. Before ozone machines were a readily available thing, somewhere around '05 I think, I was hauling a Muncie 4spd from Orlando to Atlanta in the trunk of a Honda. It ended up spilling heavy weight oil an hour or two in, and I didn't notice until I was about an hour from Atlanta.

It had a rubber trunk liner, but one of the ears on the transmission ended up tearing through it, which let oil run down into the metal, and had some puddle in the spare tire well, which happened to have OEM sound deadener. Needless to say, I dunno whether it soaked into the metal, into the sound deadener, or what, but man, I never got the smell out of that damn thing. I ended up having to sell it not long after, I tried damn near everything to get the smell out. Shampooing, scrubbing, every degreaser known to man, pressure washing ... no dice.

Gear oil is a bitch.

 

I have my Tundra today because of a similar hazmat spill in a previous vehicle. 1997 Toyota Camry I was commuting in. Worse than rancid gear oil, sippy cup with milk. We carbon dated the sippy cup to 1-1.5 years under the front seat. I tried everything to get the smell out including removing the seats and the carpet and tearing all the padding out behind it. The smell remained. Traded it for a 2000 Tundra TRD OR AC Limited in spring of 2005. Great swap.

 

I wasn't so lucky. I ended up with a manual RSX-S, I think a 2003 if memory serves. Silver. I still had the 68 C-10 back then, so it was essential the parts-fetcher, but at that point the LS1 and T56 were already in the C-10 so it was all small parts. I didn't really like the RSX. Really wasn't very fun. I ended up selling it, and using the leftover to get a manual mid-'99 manual GTI VR6. Now that thing ... that was a f'n blast to drive. Worst mistake I ever made was selling that to go lease an '09 Jetta. I wanted an R32, but didn't want the price tag and the dealership's lease price was stupid at the time.

I've almost always had a car and a truck, car for putting around, truck for fishing/hiking when it wasn't getting modified somehow. I think my ownership of the Tundra is the 1st time I've had two trucks at the same time (but only for 6mos or so), and I sold that extra '98 Sierra almost 4 years ago now. This is the longest period of time I've gone with a single vehicle!

 

I had a 2004 RSX, also silver. Mine was not the type S and it was slow but fun in the twisties around here. Dad bought it new and then I bought it from him around 2008.

 

Suspension was the best part, tight, smooth, firmly planted, fun cornering.
OEM shifting felt like short-throw, tight gearing, that part was nice.

But ...

I found acceleration to be relatively poor for a 6spd manual compared to a substantial number of other manuals I've owned/driven.
I found little to no enjoyment in it being a manual, unless you managed to keep it wound up above 3k RPM while banging through gears.

I would never own another one. I think if Honda would've offered a bolt-on turbo for it, or had just made it a turbo, it would've been one of the most-fun cars I've ever owned. But the reality is, VW made a more-approachable, more-fun vehicle with the MKIV GTI, especially the VR6 models. Not to bash on the 1.8T 4cyl, but the VR6 was a f'n monster for such a small platform.

 

3k??? The fun starts at 5500, that V-Tec yo!!!

 

Maybe that was it. I don't think it redlined until 7.5k or something, so you're probably right. VTec, VVT-i, I can't remember what the RPM ranges are on any of that shit.

I just remember, things didn't start to get peppy until the RPM was at least 50% higher than what my Tundra runs at 80mph. I swore it was somewhere between 3k-4k when the RSX started to light up. But even then, "lit up" was overstating things tremendously.

 

Sounds like my corolla xrs. Redline of 8200, vvtl-i didn't kick in till 6200. 170hp and 118 ft-lb. Absolute corner carver but you weren't moving fast in-between. I miss that car. Sold it for $3200 right after I got the truck. Never should've done that.

 

5500 is when the V-Tec kicks in yo. You can kind of feel it, it gets a little louder when the intake valves really get opened up by the bigger cam lobes. In that engine you get like an extra 15hp during the variable cam activation. Hold on tight!!!!

 

I mean, when it's like 10% of the total HP, that 15 is tangible (won't lie, I'd love to have another 10% HP in the truck!)

 

I’m looking to replace the carpet in my 2000 Limited Tundra. Anyone know if the carpet that came out of a Tundra with bench seats will work with my Tundra that has captains seats? I have a lead on the correct color in decent shape I can get locally but it came out of a Tundra with bench, mine has captains. I would think it would work but wanted to check.

 

Yes! So whether it has captains or bench, A/C cabs utilize the same floor mounting spots for seat mounting.

 

Sweet! So does the middle portion of the bench seat just kind of float, or does it utilize the 4 holes that the center console mounts to on the captains chairs configuration?

 

Middle bench left mount is the same hole as the right rear side of the drivers seat. You'd have to cut the carpet for the console, but the seat holes are the same.