1st Gen parts Corner of Shame - OEM minus or plus?

Caffeine still hasn't kicked in yet.

Weird, cheapest price I found was $19 on the Moog. Maybe different part for my year? Doesn't make sense though, if OEM part is the same for both years.

 

C'mon shifty, you gotta be better than that

https://youtu.be/nJVI3rHjPS4

 

Not sure. They are showing $9 for me. Are you confusing the bellows with the tie rod ends? I need both.


.

 

It's likely an early vs late truck thing. I noticed that shifty's balljoints were more expensive too.

$9.15 for Moog vs $26.57 for OEM

Not that $35 additional bucks is a deal breaker, but it seems silly for such a simple part. A greased up tube sock would probably do just as good of a job.

 

Don't you dare touch my spank sock!

I see what happened. Moog had it listed at their site for $18.20, and when I went online to hunt the part number they gave, the top result was $19, but I missed it's for K100182 at the top result for me (wtf?)

I'm having a really dense/slow morning.

 

I will add a plus.
I have had good and bad experiences with brake pads. Wagner ThermoQuiet Ceramic pads have always worked good for me.
Unfortunately I don't remember which ones were bad (noisy/grinding), but as long as I stick with OEM or Wagners it probably doesn't matter anymore.

 

For 1st gen specifically, or just in general?

@KNABORES just in case, do you mind updating your thread title with "1st gen" somewhere, like "1st Gen parts corner of shame - OEM minus or plus?" I didn't even think about other gens popping in on this one to provide input on parts we may not even be able to find for our gen of Tundra.

 

I didn't think brake pads only apply to 1st gens, but yes, in general. From my wife's minivan to my Tacomas and Tundras of all generations. Just the brand in general has treated me good.

 

Only reason I bring it up is b/c the 1st Gen Tundras tend to have quite a few complaints about braking performance and, while ceramic pads are quieter and less dusty, they tend to also have less grab than other materials, thus aren't as well-suited to towing, and 1st Gen folks tend to haul more than just ass. And it's worse if you're in a cold climate.

I'd prefer them for the noise and less dust, but I'd be worried about ceramic doing me justice, even with the improved performance of the 13WL calipers on my later-year 1st Gen.

Anyway, not trying to hijack this thread with "which pad material is best" back-and-forth. Appreciate the input either way, so thanks!

 

I used the napa boot, no idea who made it and it tore in a few months. I specifically went with Napa because their picture showed a metal clamp, but it came with a fat zip tie. I replaced with OEM a year and a half ago.

I actually have an extra OEM boot because when I ordered them I didn't realize they were side specific. I'll check and see which side I still have.

Personally I'd go OEM just because swapping out the boots isn't super easy and messes with the alignment.

 

They're side specific? I was only able to find one part number, and it wasn't designated as "RH" or "LH" (I don't think, but I was a f'n space cadet this morning)

 

Are the 04-06 different racks maybe

01 AC

45536-0C010-LH

45535-0C010 -RH

 

Actually, you're right, and it is different. I guess I need to go edit my damn post. The large clamps are different and the boot is different. The weird part is, 45536 in this diagram points to the part starting 45535, and 45535 in this diagram points to the part starting 45536. So really understanding which is which is kinda a PITA, so I'm gonna go look at Amayama and see what it says. (EDIT: Amayama has the same weird backwards numbering)

​

 

I wonder if that's why this member is having issues


https://www.tundras.com/threads/steering-rack-boots.134854/

 

Part number(s) for my 2000 AC matches what @rock climber posted above.

45536-0C010-LH

45535-0C010 -RH

Moog is not side specific, so I'm guessing both sides fit like trash. I may go with the greased up tube sock out of spite.

 

Before I finally replaced the boot, I used star pattern duct tape, held fine for a few months.

 

The OEM steering components are fairly affordable, compare to buying 4x the amount of Moog parts to equal 1 lifecycle of OEM.

 

Its true, but I'm salty since I just made an order during the stocking stuffer sale. Going to let them sit in my cart for a few days before I cave

 

Request granted.

 

Adding to the aftermarket win: Outer Belt Weather Strip Kit from Mill Supply. replaced all 4 with this kit: https://www.millsupply.com/auto-bod...rip-kit-4-pieces-left-right-side-39700227.php

They fit well and look so much better than my old ones. I initially thought i might take my old ones off and paint them, but spending $90 seemed like a better deal to me. The rubber was stiff and the strip of felt on the inside was tough and crumbly. The passenger side rear trim piece did not fit quite right, and after contacting Mill Supply and providing a pic, they're shipping me a replacement.

 

I haven't done too much to my rig in the years I've owned it and it's hard to consider something a real win if I haven't had it long. here's what I'll note, though:

OEM alternative wins-
-Kenwood head unit
-Hewitt SAIS bypass - 18,700mi/4yrs
-TRQ front wheel bearings - 10,300mi/3yrs

OEM alternative win/fail pending-
-Detroit Axle LBJs - 10,300mi/3yrs
-Gates HD serp belt - 3,100mi/1yr

 

Is that 1st gen or 2nd gen on the bypass kit? May be worth noting.

 

1st gen.

 

Absolutely stay away from ITM or Ultra intake manifold gaskets off RockAuto. I've used both and the ITMs failed and literally blew out within 9k miles. The Ultras about 6k mile.

Pics of the ITMs:













I'll put up some pics of the Ultras once I get them replaced. Hopefully next weekend.

 

I hate that for you. Thank you for posting.. for science

 

I have another minus. Moog U joints (specifically the non greasable). I used them on the sequoia before I knew about spicer. Lasted 1.5 years and when I replaced them over the weekend, they were half frozen and notchy.

 

All my life I've used Dana/Spicer joints.
Never once have I been dissatisfied, and that's been way more joints than my Uncle Bob could smoke in a week.

 

Yup Dana/Spicer fan here too. My old Mopars had Dana 60 rear ends - unbreakable.

 

Anyone have any luck with non OEM brands of upper ball joints that aren't plastic