2002 Tundra Starter

Hi there, long time lurker, first time poster. Got a 2002 Tundra / 4.7 / AC / SR5. Turning the key and nothing happens. Tried pulling the starter relay to "wire jump it" and in the process cracked the "purple" relay housing. When I did get it off, tried the wire jump and did not get anything. Thinking that is a good sign starter is done. Not sure so looking for some thoughts from the group here. When I did the "wire jump" i did get some electric spark, but no starter noise. Have approx 220K miles, was having this similar issue about 18 months ago, so took it into shop and after $700 it worked. Really suprised this issue is back so quick. Not sure on the actual part shop used so assuming it was not OEM. IF is is the starter looking at using the "cold weather" starter i have seen some of the other members here have mentioned. Also, on the lookout for starter relay.

am I on the right or wrong path here?

 

What work did the shop perform for $700?

Have you tested with a meter to confirm you're getting power to the starter relay socket?

Have you checked all the fuses in both the engine bay and the dash?

 

Shifty

work done 18 months ago was a new starter. Not sure how to test at the starter relay socket with a multimeter. I did check the actual relay and was getting 82 ohms of resistance. Reason for my thinking I needed a new relay was b/c I cracked the outside of the relay trying to get it out. I checked the 5 amp fuse for continuity. I did try the 5 amp fuse on DC current but did not get a reading in the fuse box below the steering wheel when turning the key.

 

They might've gone aftermarket. Average life on today's aftermarket parts is 2-5 years, honestly. They should've just bought a Denso part, knowing how long the OEM Denso part lasted, and knowing how much f'n work it is to replace the gd thing.

Is there a layout/drawing of the internal layout of the relay on the starter relay itself? A lot of times you'll find it printed on the side, and that layout tells you both the operation of the relay, and gives you an idea of which pins to probe. Like this:

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That little diagram shows the operation, like this:

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You could also hit the wiring diagrams thread to see which pins should have what. Wiring diagrams are over here --> https://www.tundras.com/threads/ultimate-tundra-wiring-diagrams-collection.81448/

I can't remember what pins should have what and I've got to run in a minute, maybe someone else can hop in and help.

 

85 to 86 either paperclip, wire with end exposed or 2 flathead screwdrivers crossed on the metal portion will do it. If it clicks and nothing else happens, starter is dead.

 

if it starts then it may be a grounding point or wiring problem between the relay and ignition.

 

Thanks. For the relay I checked for resistance again and landed at 72.2 going from 1 to 2


I am concerned that the below crack in the relay I might have messed up the relay trying to pull it

when I used the wire jumper I linked these 2 below. I am wondering based on what is being said above I might have went to the wrong ones. I am thinking that 85 and 86 above coordinates with 1 and 2 on the relay itself.

 

If you look at the pins at the bottom it states the numbers, but I think it's 3 to 4. I can't walk out to my Celica to confirm this since my kid is acting out.

 

I love linking this video for starting diagnostics: should vaguely apply to your year.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=0jWouSQYTnU

 

Can confirm is 1 to 2. not 3 to 4 just looked lol.

 

I checked for resistance from 1 to 2 and got 72.2. I tried inserting a wire in the relay socket from 3 to 5 and did not get any sound which is where I would expect based on the video supplied by @shifty` above.

 

I have not tried the paperclip bridging as was worried of electrical shock

 

Rubber gloves are your friend. Shocks are like coffee, hook me up dawg.

 

Found some additional information. Starter was installed by shop on 10/16/2020. Starter was Ultima R612803A from O’Reilly

 

Ha! I bet the starter is dead. Sad the shop charged you OEM pricing for work to install a shitty 2-5 year lifespan part when an OEM brand part would’ve only been a few bucks more. Now you’re looking at another 2 hours labor and probably more parts (intake manifold gasket) to replace the aftermarket garbage they put in there…

Replace it with the correct Denso part. www.densoautoparts.com to locate the part number, and get the cold weather starter option as an upgrade if possible. Don’t buy it on scAmazon or fleaBay. I doubt your shop will give you a break on any work, it was more than 3 years ago, and in today’s world, that is “the life of the part” and/or “the extent of the work”. Everything in the automotive industry that’s non-OEM seems to be geared toward the short term these days. Toyota has a name and reputation to uphold internationally, while “Ultima” … who the fuck is Ultima? I’ve never heard of them. But I doubt their part is much more expensive than Denso.

My trusted shop would never buy parts at O’Reilly, they have a couple parts warehouse sources for just about anything, any brand they want or need. My trusted shop also gives me a choice on parts brands before doing any work. Maybe it’s living in a major city that helps but … I dunno. I don’t think you got ripped or anything, 3 years is a pretty good run for non-OEM brands. I’d feel pretty jaded though.

 

PROBLEM SOLVED

So wanted to give an update. First off, thank you @shifty` and @blackdemon_tt for responding and helping out. Much appreciated. I ended up replacing the starter relay as I was worried that I cracked the current relay when pulling it out….rookie mistake using adjustable plier on that case. (see picture above). Replaced starter using Denso 2.0 Kw purchased from Rock Auto. Stater I used is linked below. https://www.densoproducts.com/denso-280-0320-remanufactured-starter Also, replaced gasket with a Fel-Pro intake manifold gasket from Rock Auto. Once I got into the job I found that the Starter Solenoid Connector harness had a broken locking clip. Apparently, “my option”, what the shop did when they were in there was hold the harness into the starter by a zip tie. Zip tie had appeared to work its way off the harness over time as it was still around the starter wire but not holding the harness in place. Replaced the harness, crimped in place with heat shrink connector, then wrapped entire wire in electrical tape followed by wrapping it all in a wire loom. Put all back together and truck runs good as new.
Thanks again for helping this first timer with his questions on this forum.

 

@2002_Tundra_AR Glad you got it figured out, Merry Christmas to you and your family

 

Awesome outcome. That’s the only thing that made sense, starter not firing, and I guess we could’ve figured out the circuit was disco’d with a DMM, but … meh. Glad you got it figured out, and opening the intake was pretty much mandatory either way. Good on you for swapping to OEM in there while at it.

And what you had happen is exactly why I don’t trust shops to touch my stuff. They should’ve fixed what they broke.