2000 Tundra no headlights

Hello everyone. Long time stalker just ran into an area and got stumped. Been troubleshooting this for a while and have multiple wiring diagrams.

2000 Tundra sr5 4.7 2wd access cab

So I tried the dreaded anytime fog like mod. Needless to say it didnt go good. I have sense done a separate fuse block with all the aftermarket lighting (fog lights light bar etc). I have not been able to get my headlights back. DRL lights I can jump pins 1 and 2 on the Head light relay to get it to work. I have swapped out to a good rhestat dimmer switch, headlight combination switch, the main DRL relay(inside cab under dash). I have extra relays for the engine compartment relays. I check the fuses everytime I get out and work on it. They are all good.

For thos who know these trucks, the headlights have power at all time and the ground is triggered by the DRL system. For thos with the DRL.
So at the combination switch I have ground at pin 13 and 16 with engine on and combination switch on. Integration relay I have ground at 1L pin 5 I do not have ground at 1L pin 6 its staying hot. So this is the problem area. I have been chasing around looking at the wiring diagrams and going nuts tracing all the grn wires off of 1L pin 6 to junction 9 and following them to the relays and seeing their still hot. I cant find D12 and D13 DRL diodes. I took off the entire dash to hunt for them and still cant find the little buggers.

Note: I did have an issue with my brake pedal switch, where my dash lights would come on when I pressed the brakes. That seems to be a faulty switch, have a new one on the way.

Truck runs beautifully, just did a 12hole injector, mishimoto radiator, swapped out tranny fluid, diff fluid, radiator fluid. Done the whole cutting into the fire wall for 35s. Ive been racking my brain for months on trying to get this wiring figured out to put some teq custom retrofits on. Really trying to avoid taking it to a dealership.

Thank you for any help!
Dan

 

Well doing some more diagnosing. Found D12 diode 1 and its bad found D13 its good. So now trying to figure out the part number for D12 diode No. 1 (daytime running light system) .

 

I'm running into the same issue. Attempted to do the "any time fog mod" and failed miserably. I have no headlights or fog lights or high beams. I've reconnected my DRL in the engine bay and they work as normal. Checked all fuses which are good and checked all relays which are good too.

When you are referencing the Diodes are you looking at the integration relation off the cabin fuse box?

 

There are two diodes in the headlight system. The one i found was bad was the one behind the instrument cluster. Its taped into the harness on the left hand side.

Changing it didnt solve my issue though. What I had to do is switch out, the combination switch, the main drl relay right above the airbag actuator inside the cab. The rehostat. Then finally the intigration relay.
So our lights are constant hot, then the switches ground it to make them work.
Do you have a wiring diagram?
I can try and walk you through the diagnosing and working down the lines.

I have to say to anyone do not do the fog light mod with DRL lol on 1st gen Tundras. I followed it to the T and it bite me in the arse. I have it all working now though after months of headache to get it fixed.

 

There are also no replacements for them. I bought electronic diodes and soldered it in.

 

I do have a wiring diagram but not 100% on reading through the info on it. So my current situation is no lows, no highs and no indicator for highs when i push the stalk forward. When i pull the stalk back to flash highs indicator comes on and works. No fogs and also DRL's work. I just ordered a new under dash fuse box which should be here soon. Definitely need some help to get this thing back to normal.

 

This is what I've been reviewing page 100.

 

Do you have access to a multimeter?

Yep that exactly like what happened to me.

Okay on page 94 is where youll be needing to look from this point on. I'll also give you another diagram a little easier to follow.

 

I do have access to a multimeter. Looking at page 94 and your page.

 

Do you have the panels off the interior of the truck your going to need access to the integration relay wiring, the combination switch inside the cab.
Then we'll need to access the engine bay relays as well.

First thing we'll do is off the combination switch the grn/ye wire with the ignition on or truck running and combination switch off. Red to a positive and black to grn/ yel what are you getting?

 

I shouldve asked this from the beginning what year tundra do you have?

 

2000 Tundra with DRL's

 

I don't have the panels off yet. I'm waiting for the new fuse box/integration relay to come in before tearing it all down as the chances of it needing to be replaced is high.

 

Oh gotcha. Well if you need any other help with it let me know.

 

100% will let you know. So you ended up having to replace the integration relay (which is tied into the cabin fuse box), the combination switch for the headlights & the main drl relay under the dash?

 

Yep

 

I changed the integration relay when i had the same problem. I opened it up to see if i could see what i burnt up, but i didnt see anything.

 

Seems like the DRL's are the secret sauce to making things go boom when you do this mod. Change that integration relay and roll on.

 

Going to start with the integration relay (order one this week) and will go from there if i need to replace anything else. Order a running light relay as a just in case but figured the stalk for the lights and dimmer are still function as normal. Will report back once i get it in and swap it out .

 

@daveeasa anything to add? Maybe a pic of what not to do?

 

Same symptoms for me, swapping integration relay fixed it (minus a punched wire on my scangauge from swapping in a Costco parking lot a few hours before dark)

at the bulb, those of us with DRL (really better phrased as low beam always on) are power switched. So the common h4 terminal is ground and power flows on the other two terminals. I assume the stalk is ground switched as described.

pulling back to flash high beams appears to be an independent piece of the integration relay and unaffected by the damage from hacking to attempt fog anytime.

I plan to eventually go to a switch-pros for my front and rear pod lights and use the oval switch spots for mirror heat or seat heat. Haven’t figured out what I’ll do for DRL but contemplating swapping to a sequoia stalk with an auto mode and then trying to get fancy with the corner bulbs and some relays and an ambient light sensor.

 

So I just swapped out the fuse box completely since the integration relay is built in and still getting the same symptoms. Not sure where to go from here at this point. I have a DRL relay ordered that should be here tomorrow (the one in the cab) from what OP stated he had to switch out the stalk too.

 

I just swapped out the fuse box with a new to me one that was tested good. Unplugged the DRL from engine bay and headlights work as normal. No fogs and no high beam when pushing the stalk forward.

 

Did you test the stalk?

 

I haven’t yet. Tested relays and dimmer relay in fuse box in engine bay. Main running light relay will be in tomorrow. Hoping that fixes it if not then last thing will be the stalk.

 

Swapped the DRL main relay in the cab and we are back to normal. Thank 8lb baby Jesus.

 

What did you do to try to hotwire fogs anytime?

 

Dimmer switch green wire. I want to try again but honestly don't want to fuck this up again and rewire a new integration relay in and hope that's the only thing that shorts. Ive searching and searching it looks like all the threads are gone and links are broken for the fog light mod for the 2000-2002 with DRL's

 

I gave up after cooking the relay. I have a set of fogs on the factory switch & a set of aux on a seperate anytime switch.