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CV Axle Leaking...again!

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tundras (2007-2013)' started by AstroDude, Jan 3, 2024.

  1. Jan 3, 2024 at 3:13 PM
    #1
    AstroDude

    AstroDude [OP] New Member

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    Alright, so I changed out my CV Axles because A1 Autos axles are trash. They were about one inch too short and caused the AX axle boot to stretch almost to its max.

    So I replaced both CV axles with Extreme Terrain CV axles and the seals that go with them. Of note, the output shaft seal was leaking before I decided to change out the CVs.

    The first picture is what the new output shaft seal looked like about 5 days ago after I installed it. I made sure it was flush with the inner lip (refer to image 1). I was driving the truck around for a week and it was holding up.

    Yesterday, I went offroading in Azna Borregos Sandstone Canyon and when I returned home I noticed that it was leaking (refer to image 2).

    ALSO, the CV Axles that I ordered from Extreme Terrain and installed 5 days ago are now leaking, and sprayed CV Axle grease all over the inside of the tire. (refer to image 4 and 5). I'm working with Extreme Terrain on a 3rd set of replacements. Yes. This is the 3rd time.

    After looking at this post: https://www.tundras.com/threads/leak-at-front-diff-cv-axle.52267/

    I realized my problem might be the axle shaft bearing and I checked the CV axle shaft for up and down movement but I'm not sure if it's normal. Below is a video that I just recorded. The passenger side axle doesn't move (that's the side that's leaking), the drive side axle does move (that side isn't leaking).

    https://youtube.com/shorts/osImSaSwcSU?si=na4eklEK5WBom4E3

    Soooo...with all of this in mind...would I be amiss to say my next step is to replace the item #8 in the last photo? Does the axle shaft bearing retain oil in any way? I'm really tired of taking off these CV axles so I'm trying to get some opinions prior to doing it again.

    With the axle shaft bearing, I don't hear any grinding or wining while driving. So that's why I think it might not be the problem.

    411928222_721801909662938_2630630615020801413_n.jpg
    411596047_334706632787571_3101949563555432538_n.jpg
    Image 4.jpg
    Image 3.jpg
    Screenshot 2024-01-03 150033.png
     
  2. Jan 4, 2024 at 12:15 PM
    #2
    AstroDude

    AstroDude [OP] New Member

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    Anyone?
     
  3. Jan 4, 2024 at 12:18 PM
    #3
    MadMaxCanon

    MadMaxCanon New Member

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    Too many, but not enough....
    @Cruzer i think he has probably changed more CV axles than anyone i know combined.

    Off topic, how was Anza right now?
     
    AstroDude[OP] and Cruzer like this.
  4. Jan 4, 2024 at 1:31 PM
    #4
    Cruzer

    Cruzer Wheeling Full Size

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    The bearing #8 does not seal in oil because it is not a tight fit. However #9 should be a very tight fit. I've purchased intermediate shafts that came with the #9 seal and it was suspiciously not a tight fit so I ended up ordering an OEM. OEM was definitely tight and had to gently hammer them into place.

    As for the boots leaking you can use an epoxy but the surfaces must be clean - as in you need to reboot the axle yourself rather than taking it apart and trying to clean the grease off the mating surface.

    https://dirtking.com/products/cv-boot-sealant-px-84107
     
    AstroDude[OP] likes this.
  5. Jan 4, 2024 at 2:33 PM
    #5
    JRS

    JRS New Member

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    What @Cruzer said about the seal. First time I did mine, I screwed up and had pressed it in too far, resulting in diff fluid dripping out again. Replace with OEM and keep flush as you did.

    CV grease will only come out from a bad seal at the clamp (assuming the boot is in-tact). They may not be coming in with a good enough cinch. This PEX ratchet clamp worked well when I rebuilt my half shafts: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01919K6MW?ie=UTF8&th=1 You could try new clamps before doing a tear down with the epoxy.

    Also, have you looked at silicone boots? I used https://www.cvjreman.com/product/boot-rt50/ and https://www.offroadsolutions.com/products/replacement-cv-boot/.
     
    AstroDude[OP] likes this.
  6. Jan 4, 2024 at 3:24 PM
    #6
    AstroDude

    AstroDude [OP] New Member

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    Anza is amazing. Cool temps and it's amazing as always.
     
    MadMaxCanon[QUOTED] likes this.
  7. Jan 4, 2024 at 3:32 PM
    #7
    AstroDude

    AstroDude [OP] New Member

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    Ironman 4x4 3.5" lift Stoptech drill and slotted rotors RRW 0 offset rims BMC 35" K02s TrailToys High Clearance Rear Bumper Steel and Kevlar braded brake lines Front diff drop UpTop Overland Rack RoofNest Falcon XL Roadshower 4L IronMan4x4 Awning IronMan4x4 Privacy Tent Custom built bed molle panel (because they don't make them for crew cabs)
    Got it, so I likely didn't seal the output shaft seal well enough. I'm not sure how much more I have to seat it. It looks like it's pretty good...but I'll try it again. I really appreciate your insight.

    For the boot, I have a spare new CV axle where the boot seems fine. In the meantime, I'll replace the bad CV boot and I'll call it a day until another CV axle acts up.

    I know the OEM specs state that the output shaft seal needs to be within 5mm but my digital caliper tool won't fit in the hole. So I just have to guess if the fitment is right.
     
  8. Jan 4, 2024 at 3:35 PM
    #8
    AstroDude

    AstroDude [OP] New Member

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    2011 Toyota Tundra Double Cab 4x4
    Ironman 4x4 3.5" lift Stoptech drill and slotted rotors RRW 0 offset rims BMC 35" K02s TrailToys High Clearance Rear Bumper Steel and Kevlar braded brake lines Front diff drop UpTop Overland Rack RoofNest Falcon XL Roadshower 4L IronMan4x4 Awning IronMan4x4 Privacy Tent Custom built bed molle panel (because they don't make them for crew cabs)
    Got it. Luckily I have a new spare OEM output shaft seal.

    Before I take out the old seal, I'll measure where it current sits. Upon installing the new seal, I'll remeasure it to make sure it sits a little further in.
     

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