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Pop & Lock Tailgate Lock 2006 DC

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by simonmiles, Feb 13, 2019.

  1. Feb 13, 2019 at 5:57 PM
    #1
    simonmiles

    simonmiles [OP] New Member

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    Anyone know for sure which wires I would need to access to get the Pop & Lock tailgate to function? I assume I should find it under the kick panel on the driver's side. Any help or advice appreciated. Thanks.
     
  2. Feb 14, 2019 at 9:20 AM
    #2
    seth419

    seth419 New Member

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  3. Feb 14, 2019 at 11:13 AM
    #3
    simonmiles

    simonmiles [OP] New Member

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  4. Feb 14, 2019 at 12:56 PM
    #4
    seth419

    seth419 New Member

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    What year is your truck? Have you tried to install to the corresponding colors and it didn't work? I had the pop and lock on my 2011 Tundra and didn't know they made them for the 1st gen until I looked at this thread. I am tempted to get one for my 05. If I do I will report back with my wiring findings. I couldn't find any info on 1st gen installs with a quick google search.
     
  5. Feb 14, 2019 at 1:12 PM
    #5
    simonmiles

    simonmiles [OP] New Member

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    Mine's a 2006 Double Cab. I haven't tried to install it yet. I plan to hopefully get to it this weekend. I'll let you know if I do and how things go. Thanks.
     
    Cacoleman2014 likes this.
  6. Feb 14, 2019 at 1:14 PM
    #6
    seth419

    seth419 New Member

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    Guess I could have looked a little closer at the thread title to figure out the year of your truck!! Good luck!
     
  7. Feb 14, 2019 at 3:58 PM
    #7
    Cacoleman2014

    Cacoleman2014 New Member

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    I have a 06 double cab.. I am curious to see how it goes
     
  8. Feb 15, 2019 at 3:28 PM
    #8
    simonmiles

    simonmiles [OP] New Member

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    So I had a little time to begin the installation of the Pop & Lock. I wanted to figure out the electrical connections first. I think I was able to locate the necessary wires and tested the Pop & Lock successfully. So you need to remove the kick panel on the driver's side to gain access to the necessary door wires. The PDF on the Pop & Lock says to use the following wires on 2004-6 Tundras: Black/Red and Red/Black striped.

    The two wires I had to use were the following: Red with Black stripe and Blue with Red stripe.

    In turn I connected the Brown wire from the Pop & Lock to the Red with Black stripe and the Green wire to the Blue with Red stripe.

    I installed the Pop & Lock to the tailgate and that was pretty easy. Just had to remove an E-ring and remove the original lock link. The Pop & Lock unit is then placed over that area and tightened down. I will do the wiring tomorrow as I ran out of daylight. Just need to route the cables under the truck and into the cabin to the kick panel.

    Hope this helps.

    Screenshot_20190215-170927_QuickPic.jpg Screenshot_20190215-172319_QuickPic.jpg

    Sorry the pics are so big. :/
     
    Casper421 likes this.
  9. Feb 15, 2019 at 3:32 PM
    #9
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Sweet. Thanks for posting up.
     
  10. Feb 15, 2019 at 3:36 PM
    #10
    simonmiles

    simonmiles [OP] New Member

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    My pleasure. This is such an awesome forum with a great group of guys who seem to genuinely want to help each other out including yourself. Just giving back what little knowledge I have. Haha.
     
  11. Feb 15, 2019 at 4:32 PM
    #11
    Casper421

    Casper421 Toyota RidgeTrac driver!

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  12. Feb 20, 2024 at 2:25 PM
    #12
    dirtnsmores

    dirtnsmores New Member

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    Searched the forum and this thread is what I found for 1st gen tundra pop & locks. I am getting a camper installed and want a way to lock/unlock tailgate with my key fob. Is this the only product on the market for this?
     
  13. Feb 20, 2024 at 3:03 PM
    #13
    Weagle

    Weagle I survived my timing belt change

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    Bilstein 5100's with 2883's - close to 2" Replacing the 2883's and going back to the bottom perch ASAP -mobile/apple play stereo with sub and backup cam -Power stop HD front calipers and rotors for towing -20" wheels with 32" tires (305/50's) Toyo AT 3's with no rubbing -Westin nerf bars -Detroit axle new (not rebuilt) steering rack with poly bushings, inner and outer TRE's -Suspension Maxx extended front sway bar links -Overland tuning - medium level -Power front leather seats and steering wheel from 06 Sequoia -fully de-chromed/blacked out trim -all light housings incl 3rd brake light and tag lights replaced with smoked lenses, LED where appropriate -mini projector headlights -fully rebuilt trans and new torque converter -new complete drive shaft with spicer u-joints and carrier bearing -all LED interior lights including backlighting -new lower window seals for all 4 doors -all new hardware and clips for tailgate Next: Dirty Deeds racing exhaust with LT headers, yellow box, 12 hole DD fuel injectors, redo or replace door panels
    That is the only one I could find. I saw a lot of positive posts about this, so I tried it. However, I had a lot of trouble first with wiring

    Tech-support was very helpful with this. Turns out the paperwork they sent was very incomplete and not correct for my truck. he then told me a better place with any easier access to connect to existing wiring. That part of their support was good

    however then I had trouble with it locking and unlocking inconsistently. I had a lot of trouble getting a hold of Technical Support again but he finally did send me a warranty replacement.

    unfortunately I have the same issue and now I can't get a hold of him.

    what I finally discovered is that the locking mechanism rubs the internals of the tailgate which is the likely reason mine inconsistently locks and unlocks, making it useless to me. it would be hard to get to, but you could trim that part of the tailgate or grind it down Just not sure I feel like messing with it at this point in time
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2024
    dirtnsmores[QUOTED] likes this.
  14. Feb 20, 2024 at 4:05 PM
    #14
    dirtnsmores

    dirtnsmores New Member

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    Interesting. Thanks for that info. I was reading on another forum that if you remove the spring, this problem was solved. The spring was there just to help quiet it down. Wonder if that would help for you.
     
    Weagle[QUOTED] likes this.
  15. Feb 20, 2024 at 7:27 PM
    #15
    Weagle

    Weagle I survived my timing belt change

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    Vehicle:
    2006 Tundra SR5 DC 4.7 2WD LSD towing pkg
    Bilstein 5100's with 2883's - close to 2" Replacing the 2883's and going back to the bottom perch ASAP -mobile/apple play stereo with sub and backup cam -Power stop HD front calipers and rotors for towing -20" wheels with 32" tires (305/50's) Toyo AT 3's with no rubbing -Westin nerf bars -Detroit axle new (not rebuilt) steering rack with poly bushings, inner and outer TRE's -Suspension Maxx extended front sway bar links -Overland tuning - medium level -Power front leather seats and steering wheel from 06 Sequoia -fully de-chromed/blacked out trim -all light housings incl 3rd brake light and tag lights replaced with smoked lenses, LED where appropriate -mini projector headlights -fully rebuilt trans and new torque converter -new complete drive shaft with spicer u-joints and carrier bearing -all LED interior lights including backlighting -new lower window seals for all 4 doors -all new hardware and clips for tailgate Next: Dirty Deeds racing exhaust with LT headers, yellow box, 12 hole DD fuel injectors, redo or replace door panels
    Thanks I missed that and will give it a try. Once I'm done with the other myriad of projects I have going on with it

    Even so it still needs a little bit of trimming or perhaps grinding down with a Dremel.
     

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