2003 Coolant Type - Pink or Red?

Recently purchased the truck and have a small (2-4 drops each drive) coolant leak coming from what looks to be a gasket that wasn't seated properly on top of the water pump connections.

Radiator, water pump, and timing belt all recently replaced so not too worried about the slight coolant loss over time as it's barely enough to wet the tip of your finger.

My question is which coolant to use? I have pink Toyota coolant on hand but it sounds like 2003 was the year some trucks got red and some got pink. Without dipping something into the reservoir and comparing I'm not sure what to go off of. I read about some sticker possibly being in the engine bay stating the coolant type but am unsure where to look. I checked owners manual and it just says to use ethylene glycol or whatever but no colors.

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/2003-tundra-which-coolant-to-buy.83158/

 

Pink is an OAT, red is an IAT. Pink lasts longer, comes pre-diluted. Red only comes undiluted. Pink is more expensive mainly because of this. They are compatible with each other.

 

Pink is recommended. Red can be used/diluted in a pinch. Red should be replaced more often. So I just stick with pink. Peak Asian has treated me very well. Despite what the OEM fluid enthusiasts insist. Lol

 

I've been rebuilding these trucks since 1998. Most required a new radiator. I've driven them all to roughly 300k miles, then rebuild another.

All got whatever green coolant was on sale at the auto parts store. I prefer to mix my own.

 

Chartreuse works just fine.

 

Green is fine if you like to do radiator drain and fills every 30k miles.

 

I can verify that late production 2003 models did get the pink coolant, even though there was no change to the coolant type listed in the owners manual.

At this point, it has probably already been changed out during a previous service. Just use the pink and enjoy the extra time between coolant changes.

 

Super long life (Pink).

Rebuilding since 1998 you say?

 

We're racist around here. Only pink is allowed. No greens, blues, or oranges allowed.

 

Yep. 1st one was a 98 Tacoma. My most recent is a 21 Tundra MGM nightshade. Still putting that together presently.

Present daily driver is an 08 Tundra. They all get whatever is on sale.

The pink or red is just dye.

No reason to overthink it.

 

I'm gonna stand on this hill and die on it. Using the wrong type of coolant has been proven to be detrimental to various engines. Mainly because the size of the coolant "veins" and how certain chemicals in the coolant itself react with the types of metals and seals in certain motors.

With that said, this is America. And do whatever you damn well please. But my recommendation is to stick to the specifications the engineers who built the engine say to stick to. I didn't build the 2UZ so I don't know the EXACT reasons yellow, green, orange, blue, and whatever else color coolants were NOT used.

Stick to the stuff that is recommended by the manufacturer.

 

Different coolants have different levels of acidities and other shit. Just ask @Tundra2 how green coolant does in a 1st gen.

 

They're not just "dyes" they're color coded to tell you what inhibitors are being used.

 

I have a water chemistry background. I'm also big on maintenance. I understand what causes coolant breakdown.

Long Life antifreeze does not mean permanent antifreeze.

I change my coolant and radiators roughly every 100k miles.

A rad flush is $150.

Changing the rad and coolant is $90.

Rads are so cheap and easy to replace, it makes sense.

 

The way your comment sounded and where it's posted made it sound like you've been rebuilding first gen tundras since 1998, hence the emojis. The coolant color is an indicator of chemical makeup types. I have had zero issues with genuine toyota coolant, so I'll continue to use it. My genuine parts have been very reliable for the last 20yr/251k miles, so it just makes sense to stick with oem, even if it's more expensive since it will last so long. I'll probably total my truck somehow before I ever need to replace a lot of my repairs again.

 

where are you finding a radiator and 3 gallons of coolant for $90???!

 

Where are you getting radiators for that cheap? A rock auto denso is $140 + ship and tax. Sorry, but I smell bullshit.

 

I paid $119 for mine via Amazon with free shipping. First one was physically damaged. Second one was not.




That was 10 years ago I think.

 

Then why are you using silicate coolant in a cooling system that isn’t that antiquated?

 

My last rad purchase was 3 years ago. It was $80 on Amazon.

A gallon of non diluted antifreeze was $14.

I'm glad you guys have time research and throw data at me.

Do what you want and I'll do what I want.

 

Glad that's your truck and not mine. We'll agree to disagree .

 

I have not seen a difference between the cheaper radiators and the aftermarket Denso, except for cost. I would have no problem using one. The cost savings is real with no obvious upside. The “Denso - Made in China” sticker isn’t worth the cost.

The dealer radiators are different - either the OE or value line version. Yes they are Denso, but not clearly not clones of the aftermarket Denso. I prefer to use one of these if cost isn’t an issue.

 

Going back to the original question, the correct answer is the color cerise.

 

my question is, since you are claiming to be an expert in this field, what changes occur when using silicates, phosphates, and organic acids? Or combinations??? How do those react with different metals and gasket materials?

 

Only difference I noticed is I have changed no water pumps since I tried using green, off the shelf. Coolant.

Using the pink, I seemed to notice water pump shaft leaks.

 

@koditten doesn't own a first gen tundra, so . If your only issue is water pumps, it sounds pretty isolated and a "you" problem.

 

Well, not anymore. That was sold back in 2005.

What other problems do I need to be worried about.

Leaks and proper cooling is all I care about.

 

Also: https://www.tundras.com/threads/2006-4-7-tundra-overheating.114125/#post-2939222