Won't turn over

Turning over but not starting .. . .

I've had my Tundra for like 3 years with almost zero problems, it has 232K on it. Not bad for an old man.

Recently drove it home with no problems. The next morning, tried to start it, and it wouldn't cooperate.

Thought it was the starter. A mechanic came over to look at it, and he immediately dismissed the starter, and thought it was more likely the fuel pump. So I went to the effort and replaced it (pretty big project w/o a lift) and it had zero effect - sounds the same.

I connected a cheap computer to it, and there are no error codes, stored or pending.

The battery is only a year old and seems to be in good condition, the connections are solid.

Here is the video of the startup . . .

https://youtu.be/ujgRpFDlN8g

 

Check the fuel pump control module if you haven't already I think it's mounted on the frame in front of the tank

Thread tile not accurate truck is turning over but not starting

 

When you turn the Key in the on position do you hear a fuel pump? Have you checked all your fuel fuses?

Also this video does a decent job talking through the issue.

https://youtu.be/HT0TUMHt61Q?feature=shared

 

Not sure how to listen for a fuel pump, but I'll pay more attention next time. Once it stops raining, I'll check the fuses and module.

Also when I turn the ignition on (the furthest forward), then I release, it continues to crank until I turn it to the OFF position.

 

Hit the air intake with starting fluid and immediately crank it. If it sort of starts and dies, you have a fuel delivery issue. Nothing, you have no spark issues.

 

Fuse and relay are OK. Don't have any starting fluid, but ordered the ECU from

$99 DUDSN 89571-34070 Fuel Pump Control Module Compatible with 2010-2021 Toyota Tundra,2010-2022 Sequoia,2012-2014 FJ Cruiser,2012-2022 4Runner Replaces 8957134070

Amazon for $100. Local auto parts stores were $400+

 

You will probably get some shit for not going oem but I put an aftermarket one on mine 2 yrs ago and all is good so far

 

Battery voltage seems to be low? I just replaced a factory battery in my 2019, it had around 10 Volts, like in your video. Starter cranking, engine not starting.

 

It's normal for voltage to drop during startup some. However, I'd definitely check the battery and maybe even throw it on a charger if you have been trying to start it a few times. You can also perform a voltage drop test with a multimeter, if you have one.

 

Ok, so I waited for the Fuel ECU to come. Installed it. Turned the key - no change. Had a buddy come over and check it out. Put some starting spray in the intake, and it started right up. So confirmed it's a fuel issue. We turned the key and listened for the fuel pump to kick in. It clicked but didnt do anything else. Buddy told me it was a bad pump, so I ripped everything out again, got a new pump, hooked everything back up again (charged the battery while I was working), turned the key, nothing. So I checked the Fuel relay and fuse, both fine. I'm completely stumped.

 

I’d start checking all your grounds.

 

Did you try to power up the pump prior to install? Maybe time to check out the voltage at the pump connector or fuel pressure in the fuel rail. Maybe fuel pressure regulator is bad. Power up your old pump and see if in fact it doesn't work too.

 

Reread your original post. Quite a few miles on your truck and I doubt the fuel pressure regulator has been changed. I'd be checking the fuel rail pressure. You can also try to turn on the key and let it build up a little before you try to start it cuz air in the lines.. Might need some starting fluid to get it started again.

 

I did test it before I installed it. Worked fine. Old fuel pump is long gone, trash picked up. I did forget to change the fuel filter, and it's been quite a long time.

 

Just so we are on the same page, does your truck year model have an external filter? Pretty sure the newer one's have the screen on the pump intake side (in the tank). I still think there is a good chance that you might have a bad regulator. Good luck!

 

Something to consider
https://urdusa.com/urd-2007-tundra-fuel-pumpfilter-upgrade-kit/

 

I did see a filter attached to the pump. My buddy mentioned that but I did see a YouTube video of a guy taking one out just under the drivers side on the rail ..
(Napa/Oreillys) doesnt have a fuel pressure regulator in stock. Autozone and Advanced Auto doesnt even recognize that part name
RockAuto has it, but I'd have to wait a day, short on time.

 

I don't think you will find a frame rail mounted filter on your truck, unless maybe it was modified with the kit I posted a link to or a similar modification. Test the voltage to the pump. If good, test the pressure. If that is good, you have an injection issue, possibly circuitry or computer. Good luck!

 

The fuel pump doesn’t run key on, turns on when engine is started.

 

Thanks for the heads up! So it's triggered by crank sensor or similar? This guy needs to know how to trigger it to test for power at the connector. I guess maybe long test leads and crank it, or a remote start button.

 

Verify all fuses are tight - especially the IGN fuse.

 

I think this might be the best clue. My truck didn't stop working during driving, only after it was sitting overnight. The ignition does 'stick' after releasing the starting turn.

Then why does the engine start fine with some starting fluid?

 

So it was hard to start every morning prior to finally transitioning to no start? Have you checked the vacuum hose connections on the fuel pressure regulator?

 

Decided to bite the bullet and take it to a shop. First shop did a diagnostic and determined it was an electrical issue. They couldn't fix it beyond that. Towed it to the next shop. Only an hour before close. They looked at everything, and isolated it to the tank. No pressure coming out of the tank. Didn't have any further insight beyond that. They will take the tank down in the morning and try to isolate it from there. A very strange mystery indeed. This has stumped a lot of people. Will let you know what they find in the morning.

 

The mechanic put in a new fuel pump from another supplier.
The 2 fuel pumps I put in from AutoZone were no compatible - considering maybe suing them for the shizstorm this created,

 

Can you not return them? Back when I used AZ, if a part did not work or didn't fix the problem they took it back. But that may not be the case anymore. That was 10+years ago at this point. Now, I don't waste time at the parts stores and their cheap garbage. I either find OEM or OEM manufacturer (e.g Denso vs Toyota branded). The extra money is worth the time saved and generally OEM manufacturer branded is not much more than the parts stores counterparts.

 

So now it's fixed?

 

YES! Thanks everyone for pitching in and helping!!!!!!

 

I suppose the mechanic fixed it. What did he do?