Rear wheel bearing

Last week I drove my truck to Utah and back which netted approx 1000 miles round trip. About 100 miles into the trip my truck started throwing the ABS and TRAC lights on solid and the 4hi 4lo lights flashing. At first I thought is was a simple whoops, I left the gas cap off when I pulled over. I reset the gas cap and the lights went off for about 130 miles before they came back on. Throughout the trip the lights would only come on if I drove over 50 mph and would stay off if I drove slower. For the last 3 days driving to work and back when I start the truck only the ABS and TRAC light are on solid, then turn off after driving 30 yards, then after a few more yards all the lights pop on again.

I got home wed evening and checked the codes which came back as C0210 bad RR wheel speed sensor. I have been working nonstop since then so today i finally had the chance to look into it some more.

First thing I did today was check the wiring harness and didn't see any nicks or damage to it. Then I pulled the right rear WSS and it came out full of grease. It's getting juice on my multimeter so I cleaned it off and reinstalled it. I'm now thinking it's not the sensor but likely the wheel bearing? However when I put the truck up on the Jack I didn't feel any play in the wheel. Nor did it sound like a bad bearing at any time on my drive.

Is it possible for grease to get in there from anywhere else? I was thinking I just might replace that bearing and see what happens but I don't want to overlook something or start the parts cannon process of just replacing everything. I've also never replaced a bearing but it seems like a job I could do after limited research on the job requirements.

any suggestions from the gang would be highly appreciated before I begin the process...

 

Probably the axel seal. Has the light come back on after cleaning sensor?
One does not just change rear wheel bearings on a Tundra it's a PIA

 

Yeah after cleaning the sensor I cleared the code again and everything came back on 30 or so yards down the road on my test.

 

I'm also seeing how much of a pia it is but also thinking what would a shop charge me if it is the bearing/hub assembly?

 

Don't the bearings have to be pressed on/off?
Dealer charged $1700 five years ago on my 07
I did my front hub assemblies and one sensor with aftermarket partsfor under $400 almost ten years ago

 

This is exactly why I'm trying to look at options. Even if I'd pull the hub off and take it to a shop to press the bearing in and out I'd be saving money. But I think I can just buy the hub with the bearings already pressed in. I'm trying to confirm that though.


Edit: wanted to add some photos of what the sensor looked like when I pulled it.

 

After much reading through the forum and seeing how much gear oil I have on my old ABS WSS, Ive decided to shoot the parts cannon to resolve this. Im replacing these items sourcing the sensor and harness locally from NAPA:
ABS wheel speed sensor
Rear ABS wiring harness

And these ordered from Toyota:
Rear wheel bearing hub assembly
axel seal
Hub and bearing snap ring
Hub and bearing washer
Axel nut washer
Drive axel shaft bearing seal

just over $700 total.

Note: called a trusted local shop I've used in the past just for shits and giggles, they quoted me $1800 in parts alone. The markup on parts at shops is where they clean house. Once everything has arrived and I get it in I'll update the thread.

 

Just curious how this project went for you. I recently had to replace my driver's side rear axle bearing but I decided to go with axle, hub assembly and dust shield from NAPA. It was very simple, pulled the old assembly out and slid the new assembly in and bolted it up. Quite expensive I might add, but just the new dust shield, available only through Toyota, was $450.

 

I have all the parts for the bearing and seals and it's been cold and snowy so it's on the back burner for now. I did replace the abs harness and rr sensor and cleared codes which have yet to come back. I looked at that axel price at carparts.com, napa and parts geek and debated going this route but kinda wanted to do the work for the experience of tearing the axe down. Depending on how long it takes to swap I may consider going the after market parts route wholly assembled if the job is a real pia. Which it would have to be a super pia for me to choose to spend more money and not get oem parts though.

 

Yeah, I wanted to do oem parts but my 12 ton press isn't nearly large enough to do that job nor do I have the special tool that bolts onto the assembly, which is necessary for pressing the old hub, bearing and spacer off the axle. So going with the aftermarket became an easy answer for me. But now that it is all back together I am experiencing another electronic issue and it might turn out to be the ABS sensor on that assembly.

 

That's just a PIA. If you pull the a code it should tell you what sensor is bad if any.

 

Problem is, the only time the check engine light is on is when I first turn the ignition on. It stays on until I start it and it goes out immediately. I'm pretty sure if there was something detectable the light would stay on after starting or at least while it's doing whatever the he-- it is doing. I just finished putting the old assembly back on to see if the new electronic problem would go away, much to my chagrin it still persists. So it probably isn't abs related, unless I somehow damaged the sensor when I removed it, but then again if I did I would think the ABS light would be on. ??? I'm baffled to say the least.

 

Yeah, if it stays on then you know for sure. Maybe pull the sensor and clean it with electric cleaner?

 

Forgot to update this thread with my solution.

Replaced the rear abs sensor harness because I found a few nicks in it. Replaced abs sensor in RR wheel. This resolved codes for a short time, and they came back. Pulled new sensor and was a touch dirty with gear oil.

Pulled axel out and replaced axel seal. Haven't had codes come back yet. Kept the bearing hub assembly in case I need it down the road. If and when I need this, I'll likely pull the whole axel and take it to a shop to do the press work of removing the old bearing assembly and pressing in the new one.

 

C0210 - RR ABS circuit error code. The root cause was the bearing and seals. This allowed all of the elements inside to create a big mess. The dealer will charge $1500. You can pick up the assembly at O'Reilly's for just over $200. Part Number 50002. This is a complete assembly with seal and studs. I hope this helps everyone. My application is for a 2007 Toyota Tundra.