Fixing the last guys mess ups

Hi everybody, just bought a 1st gen 05 TRD. Today i noticed that there was major wheel rub on the frame. All the way down to the bare metal. I then did some digging to find that the new wheels the last guy put on have a -33mm offset difference from the stock wheels and the new wheels are 1.5 in wider than stock. Truck also has a 3 in leveling kit that i want to swap out for a 3 in lift. I have the stock rims, but the tires on them are bald. Any ideas where to move next? Also is there a good finish to put on the frame to cover the metal? I have pics of stock wheels, new wheels, and truck attached.

 

The backspacing I'm seeing on the 2nd picture you posted are ideal. You want 4.5 BS.

Start by reading the wheels and suspension section of this thread: https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

 

There's also a solid chance the level that's on it is absolute fucking garbage and skipped a few necessities. Some issues could be fixed with proper alignment, if you have the right uppers.

That post I linked will help. But if you really want to dig into this, share pics of the front suspension from multiple angles, and the rear. I suspect previous owner missed several things, and probably just blocked and spacered their way up, and may've already bent/fucked a few things that may cost you $$$.

 

I think there are other things I would be more concerned about than tire rub on a 19 year old truck. IMO that can wait. What about all of the important stuff?

 

I basically have the same wheels and offset AND taller tires. All I rub is pinch weld and that knob/corner right above it.

 

That's why I'm thinking best case is it's a hackjob lift with shit alignment, i.e. it's all spacer and maybe some strut/spring with zero upgraded UCA or caster correction. Worst case, spacer and strut mixed lift that exceeds what's recommended without touching anything else, potentially bent knuckle, blown out bushings, dry CV axles, the full monte. I can see the spacers, they look almost 1¼" tall. Ratio is 3:1 with our Geometry, I think? That would put OP at 4"+ lift in front. And probably still rolling stock length swaybar links, on stock control arms. I'm afraid to see where he's aligned out

 

If he's rubbing frame I don't see how his offset is at -33??

 

I think he's saying there's a -33 difference in offset between the original OEM wheels and the current aftermarket wheels, at least that's how I interpreted it. Like the current wheels are -12 offset and the OEM wheels are +21 offset. But those numbers/that difference means jack shit, because the wheel widths are different, so you're comparing apples to oranges.

 

Welcome to the forum.
Nice looking truck..

 

Also hub bored are wrong in the listing AND on the trucks description......

 

So i have more photos of the front end. Had it aligned at a shop and they said they did their best but there is a seized castor. As far as what all he replaced im not exactly sure. Doubt he changed UCA or CV axles. They checked the ball joints and they were good. As for rn im looking at a suspension lift from OME off of 1st gentundras that comes with new UCAs. I also noticed that the front wheels toe in currently, would the suspension alleviate this?

 

That's a fucking enormous strut spacer. He probably has things maxed out to get anywhere near aligned. I suspect you're probably closer to 4" - 4.5" lift up front.

Look, you're probably going to doubt me on this, because plenty of others didn't believe it, but only use OEM cam bolts and sleeves, especially the sleeves when you replace that stuck cam. Everyone on here has looked, and other than some Chinesium BS on fleaBay, there are no aftermarket cam sleeves that are metal, they're all plastic, they mushroom, there's a ton of pics of the carnage. People don't believe it because they honestly don't want to believe it, the price of OEM is substantial. "Why would anyone sell that product with plastic?!" (good question, I guess so they can lower the price point and steal your money?)

I don't recommend all-OME lifts on access cabs. Josh @ 1stGenTundras drive double cabs, and that's his experience. Our experience is they lift the access cabs WAY too much, and you end up with this - buying all new suspension. https://www.tundras.com/threads/ome-3-1-kit-goes-full-extension-with-a-bang-too-fast-why.109151/

That was with the 3/1 kit from OME, purchased from 1stGenOffroad - no fault of Josh's, that's what OP thought he wanted, I believe. Dude had to buy all new suspension because OME's stuff - which you need to know - isn't designed for the Tundra at all, it's adapted from another SUV like the 4Runner or something. But that truck is nearly identical cab etc. to yours, you WILL likely have the same results. OME is suitable for Double Cabs, which are really similar to the Sequoia, which is also similar to the 4Runner or whatever the OME stuff was built with in mind.

Before you go shopping replacement lifts, please, do yourself a favor, you need to read the "Suspension, wheel and tires ..." section of this community-built thread: https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

Josh is good people and he'll take care of you. But he doesn't know these trucks like we know these trucks. At the end of the day, he's a business and will sell you what he thinks will work best, but we know what works best over here. There's a lot of info in that thread. If you have questions, come back in here. We've seen a lot of people fuck this one up, and spend way more money than is necessary. Don't be those people.

Big thing is to decide: What are you looking for? How high do you want to go, knowing once you get above 3", to do it right without damaging shit, you're going to be spending extra to compensate for the geometry changes.

 

I'd probably skip the lift kit and look into replacing parts that were not happy about that 3" puck being shoved in there first. Like your LCA's and UCA's (since the stock UBJ is probably at a wonky angle and probably worn instead of replacing that, I'd just get an entirely new UCA to facilitate the lift) then think about a suspension lift

Edit: I'd also look into everything maintenance related. If someone is down to take short cuts with a lift. They're usually down to take short cuts with EVERYTHING

 

Thank you guys for all of the info, I have read through that thread a couple of times now and will give it another review. Im all for using OEM parts btw. im a buy once cry once kinda dude. as for what I want out of the truck currently: I want to do some lighter mountain off roading as I live in the Cascade mountains, I would like to be able to tow a camper without getting axle wrap, And I would like to tuck the current wheels/ tires. really not interested in going more than 3" so long as it wont damage other parts. Also currently catching up on maintenance. doing the timing belt over the weekend with the Aisin kit w/ tensioner.