1st Gen Carplay

Is the issue with installing a CarPlay system into a 1st gen tundra related to the way the unit fits into the existing radio space? I’ve seen people talk about panel gaps, but is there an issue with depth? And then is there an issue with powering a unit like this considering it contains a screen and likely a USB charger? Thanks in advance.

 

I’m not aware of any particular issues that are specific to CarPlay v. head unit size. We have a double-DIN opening in our trucks. You can fit CarPlay in either sized head unit and the power supply to them is the same.

 

Panel gaps are only an issue with later-model 1GT that have a wider dash hole for the stereo.

There are two types of CarPlay radios: Wired, and wireless. It's important to decide what you need up front.

The major issue we all deal with is determining IF you have an amp, based on your year and cab type it'll be in diff't locations, and if you do have an amp, you must bypass or adapt, the latter option doesn't have any good ways to do so IMO.

 

Also, on depth—our OEM size fit a CD player, and nothing new/aftermarket is going to be deeper than that. If you don’t have a DVD/CD player in an aftermarket unit, yours will in fact be considerably shallower.

 

you'll be fine. All you gotta do is make sure you have or don't have the factory amp and where yours is located. I don't know where a 2000's amp would be. But the basics are this. You remove your factory radio. And you need to find the right wiring harness to BYPASS the factory amplifier. It's plug and play the hard part is sourcing the proper wiring harness. Ideally somebody with a 2000 can chime in with which wiring harness they used and where their amplifier was located

there's a gap with 7" screens. I think 9" fits inbetween the a/c vents but protrudes out and is more of a floating screen

 

Typically 1st gen RC/AC in the earlier years (pre-2003?) it's in the dash, under the head unit, behind the AC controls. Pics in this thread: https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st-gen-factory-amplifier-locations-jbl-non-jbl-all-cabs.115324/

Bypassing is super easy in the earlier year trucks, because you basically remove the OEM head unit and amp, then plug your adapter harness into the two connectors that went to the amp, then feed that to your new aftermarket radio. The earlier years really do have it easier, and better yet, their dash opening looks waaaay better with aftermarket head units, due to the lack of need for filler plates on the left/right side of the aftermarket head unit.

If you take your new, aftermarket head unit's wire harness, and properly splice it into the METRA or SCOSCHE OEM adapter harness with butt splices or solder/wrap it, it's literally a 10-15 minute plug and play affair. Do all the wiring work ahead of time, and it'll take you more time to open the dash and mount the radio than installing everything.

Test before you button things up BUT know that you MUST connect all plugs to the back of the dash panel (for clock etc.) or the radio won't power up!

 

my 06 was also under the head unit.....weeeiirrrdddddd

 

RCLB, AC, or DC?

 

I'm offended that you must ask......

 

I mean, I see your truck info under your avatar, but it's worth confirming. Got any pics of the amp in the dash, or the part number? I'm excited, this could be new info to add to the amp thread. We've had quite a few DC guys come on here w/o an amp on the rear wall of the cab; I'm just wondering if it's b/c it's in the dash. I know your current truck is an IC (inferior cab) but ...

 

I'm a liar. I don't have an amp. Took the dash apart to confirm. I just remember the head unit install taking me 5minutes.
This is the harness I used sorry to give your hopes up lol

 

If you get a shallow mount double din there is even enough room in the dash to install a mini amp behind it to power your door speakers. I have a Kenwood double DIN with a 4ch mini amp in the dash of mine.

Kenwood DMX-706S
MB Quart NA2-320.4

 

Great advice. Most of the Alpine media units are the same, as well. Alpine makes pigg-back amps, I think 4x50w (KTA450-something-or-other I think?). They make another with a sub out also.

But to that point, you'll be doing extra cabling if you go that route; the 12v line feeding your head unit isn't adequate to power an amp. Which means adding a fused lead from the battery, and supply a better ground.

 

I have an older Alpine KTA amp & it gets power from the fuse box using an add a fuse type connection. Its pretty much plug & play for the wiring if you have an Alpine head unit.

 

I'm toying with the idea of getting one of those cheapo wireless AA units from scAmazon to replace my Kenwood. The screen on it washes out in the daylight hours. Crappy resistive screen on it. A nice bright capacitive screen would be nicer. I've no issues with it otherwise, especially since I added the wireless AA dongle, hehehe, dongle, to it. I will be taking it out of the dash this weekend to double check my wiring and why it doesn't auto dim when I turn on the headlights. I know the Kenwood harness has an illumination wire and I think the Metra harness that I used does too but I need to double check.

 

Crutchfield will sell you the complete set up that looks factory. No cutting clipping or wire splicing. Swap only takes a few hours.