Kenwood DMX1057 XR Tips n' Tricks, Potential Problems?

Did you try what I mentioned in my other post?

 

About shifting between P1 & P2?

If so, yes... Any of the spots where I do see it listed it's grayed out.

 

What did you wind up doing to get it to display?

 

I can't really take credit for that.

@centex worked with the guys at Maestro (Super nice and helpful gentlemen)

He sent them the appropriate PID's from his Scangauge which they coded into a new Beta version of the firmware and pushed out individually to his Maestro account, and then subsequently to mine.

Because I got the RR2 I was able to reflash via Bluetooth (RR would need to pull the unit and flash with PC)

Then "Validate PID's" and Voila!

The guys at Maestro said they'd do some testing on the Beta version and then it'd go live in the firmware.

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/rea...-model-year-device.142942/page-3#post-3601099

 

Hey Bruce, I am going to change out my HU as well. Considering the Alpine and the Kenwood. Where in SD did you get your HU and camera installed? Do you still recommend them after the install? Thanks!

 

San Diego Car Stereo on Convoy in Kearney Mesa.

https://www.sdcarstereo.com/

Yes, I absolutely do recommend them.

They went above and beyond after the sale/install to help get the Maestro and Trans temps problems working when they could've just said "Sorry... We never told you that feature would work, so it's not our problem"

Ask for Zhi (Zee?) and tell him Bruce with the silver Tundra referred you. Very nice guys.

 

Thanks, Bruce. Can I ask what the install costed you?

 

Only if you take a blood oath not to tell my wife.

I think when all was said and done it was like $2,400 out the door.

Kenwood was $1,100 (They'll match price with Amazon, etc.)

Front cam added like $300 but I'm glad I did it. I've had this truck almost 2 years and I still have no idea where the front end actually is! I think I'm really close to something and I'm still 2' away.

Worth noting - I spent an extra $50 for the Maestro RR2 rather than the RR and I'm glad I did. It allowed me to reflash it myself via Bluetooth when trying to get the gauges working. If it were the RR the HU would have to be pulled out again to flash with a PC. Also when I install some lights I'll be able to program a couple of relays and control the lights without needing to run wires/switches into the cab.

As always with stereo stuff there's various harness, kit, XM antenna adapter, etc. stuff that runs the price up.

 

Thank you, sir! I'll be sure not to say a word.