What have you done to your 2.5 gen Tundra today?

K&N Cabin air filter:

I don't go K&N for an engine air filter but I like this for my cabin air filter, it's been good.

 

Ordered a sixth wheel to carry the second spare. More weight in the bed should get this thing a bit smoother over the big stuff. Need to order a bunch of spare items now that we’ve got a big run planned in December and maybe Baja again in Jan.

Might swap out the bypass shocks for some larger units most likely and push this setup further until we cut it all out.

 

Washed and waxed ole girl. PSA: waxing a white vehicle sucks!

 

Let me know more about January Baja via PM

 

Will do

 

https://youtu.be/mpic5W1kLJg?feature=shared

 

Let’s do this

 

Yes!

 

Installed the VLEDS no-RF interference LED bulbs and the 921 high output to the 3rd brake light/cargo lights this morning. Went to install the RCI Transmission/Transfer Skid plate and cat guards I bought over Memorial Day weekend, and the notches on the skid plate don't slide past the OEM TRD Pro skid plate bolts. There's some sleeve on them, does anyone know what the dimensions are?

 

Been slammed and just catching up.
I'm at 79k miles now. I'm starting to notice a bit rougher ride but not terrible. Doesn't help that coming out of winter our highways are fucked up and I'm running a bit on the higher end for tire pressure (~41psi). But I've starting thinking about rebuild vs replace. Yours look brand new compared to mine though...I can't imagine they really need a rebuild yet.

I'm leaning toward replacement on mine but not due to the performance. For how I drive, they've been very good to me. Part of my problem is that this is my daily driver, and rebuilding puts me unable to go anywhere while I'm getting them rebuilt (without buying something else that gives me comparable lift and doesn't fuck up my alignment while getting them rebuilt)...

I'm running the Westcott front collar preload lift, and the coachbuilder +2 shackle in the back to get me a little extra height and just a touch of rake.

The rear springs (even with the RAS) just don't sit well with me every time I crawl under there and look at them. So I'm swapping the leaf springs out for progressive Icon RXT's. Going to put them at Stage 1 (no extra load) and put the RAS on with them, and go back to the factory shackles instead of the CB +2. If that's not enough to keep a very slight rake on the back, then I'll think about maybe going Stage 2 but don't want it to become too stiff. I have the RXT's sitting in the bed of the truck waiting for me to have time to get them installed. This will be "stage 1" of my refresh.

I'm going to be due for tires before the start of this winter (finally - these Wildpeaks have been amazing - roughly 78k miles on them and still should be great through the summer and into fall). I'm eyeballing a few different sizes that are closer to a full 35" (instead of the current 295/70R18) but am not ready to let go of the BBS Forged TRD Pro wheels. The 295's just clear the UCAs and just clear the wheel wells without needing to trim or BMC, but I also wouldn't mind just a little bit more "poke" to the tires. So, going up to a 35x11.5 or 285/75 means having to tweak a bit in the wheel wells or get UCAs that allow a bit more adjustment to get the wheel located better...but most of the aftermarket UCAs also stick out a little further into the wheel geometry so that means needing more offset in the wheel. Ultimately, I'm looking at putting Borla +1 spacers in (the BBS wheels have pockets to clear the slight projection of the factory lug nuts with a 1" spacer) and then getting UCAs with adjustable mount points. So that will be "stage 2" of my refresh.

Finally, we get to the actual shocks. Most of my stuff off the highway is rutted/washboard old forest service, fire access, and powerline access roads. I don't need a long-travel, or even a crazy mid-travel. I keep going back to the Bilstein 8112 front / 8100 rear combo, so I'll likely sink my teeth into those. They'll give me the total amount of lift I want in something that was "designed" for that, and then I should be good for another 70k or so miles before I need to think about replacing or rebuilding.

 

one of the most endearing terms for that part of WA state...

 

I need to get an updated picture up there - there's a lot of new stuff since that was posted.

 

How did you make that stuff appear on your display?
I keep the display off so that would be a good use of it and a reason to have it on

 

It’s an aftermarket radio with the maestro rr. I don’t know how to do it with the stock radio.

 

very cool
thanks

Is that radio better in some ways or just different. Not sure I want to replace mine but just kind of curious. I may have factory navigation for life so I might not want to mess with that part.

 

If you’re happy with the Falkens be sure to check out the new Falken Wildpeak in the 35x11.50x18 size. I recently switched to those coming from Coopers in a 295/70/18.

 

Wireless CarPlay, better audio, gauges. I’d say it’s better than the factory entune crap.

 

Yeah
Not sure I want to drop to a C load rating though. Those extra extra special sidewalls on the E rated ones keep calling to me.

 

I miss my Wildpeaks. Unless I go to MTs or 37s next, I’ll probably go back to them.

 

love my 37 wildpeaks

 

Tested out and fully working remote start on push button tundra with working take over so it keeps running after you open the door. BRING IT ON WINTER!

https://youtu.be/_V9fOKxqbw8?si=sVtnmUKyiG7QJA-E

 

MT's! Cause who wants a quiet, long lasting tire anyhow!

 

So exactly how do you do this?

 

That pic was from before I installed them. 60k miles ago. When I took them off, I could push down on my bumper and my truck would rock several times before coming to a stop. Nothing to dampen the oscillation. From what I’ve been reading, that’s how you know they need rebuilt.

To be clear, I’m fitting 285/75s with no problems at all on a completely OEM front end and the Pro BBS wheels. They clear the OEM UCAs just fine—a little better than 295s because the tire is 10mm narrower. I only removed the small mud flaps in front of the front wheels. If you stick with OEM UCAs, you’ll have no problems at all with 285/75s on your BBS wheels.

 

How is this done? Do tell!

Thanks!

 

Soon-ish once it’s out just a plug and play remote start kit.

 

This update for the Maestro is awesome. Were you able to do it via the USB or did you have to pull the Maestro out to update? I have a 9500es and have wanted to have trans temp and more PID info show up!

 

Depends on the model. The RR you have to physically connect to the Maestro itself with a usb-a to micro usb cable that supports sync ($5 Amazon works fine). The RR2 I believe supports it via Bluetooth.