Good sub box for 2 10 inch subs behind bench seat

My first vehicle I wanna go all out I have around a 1500 dollar budget.
I'm planning on buying 2 of these https://www.skaraudio.com/products/evl-10-inch-car-subwoofer?variant=EVL-10 D2
And this amp https://www.skaraudio.com/products/rp-4500-1d-car-amplifier (if it's overkill pls lmk I don't want to blow the subs)

The subs are going behind the bench seat in my regular cab and I was wondering what box/type of box would be the best, I was looking at this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Q-POWER...tYvMrCd2x5_8pYy5PoQaAtiQEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

If there's a better box out there to fit behind the bench seat and still give me some space please give me recommendations

 

Learnt sumpin new today, apparently Home Depot sells sub woofer boxes.

 

I don't think those subs are going to fit in that box. Their mounting depth is 7.25 inches and the box listing mentions a mounting depth of only 3.75 which I don't think is even right but not sure. The Q Power website to look up specs on the box is not working.

 

Based off the dimensions provided in the questions/answers section, here is a side view of the box and yep, those subs wouldn't fit.

 

I have dual Rockford Fosgate 10" shallow subs in the back of my Ferd supercab in a downfire box that only takes up the driver side 60 portion of the seat and those have plenty of bang on just 250watts at the moment. Just an idea.

 

Thank you for putting the time into this
Do you think any sub boxes would fit those subs and still fit, I took some measurements max depth behind the seat is abt 15 inches
The 250 watt sounds like a good idea but I'm tryna have better subs than someone ik and he's definitely pushing more than 250 so why not go all out.
Any opinion on that amp too? Ik it's good but is it too good

 

Yeah, I found eibach UCAs on there. I think it's trying to be like wallyworld.

 

That is way, way overkill on both the subs and amps. Those subs want a big box to breath. That box you posted is for a crewmax, the 2nd-3rd gen with the big back doors. It has a sliding back seat to fit a bigger box back there.

You're gonna want something like this:







This was a custom box I had made for 2 JL Audio 10w0s. Ran it off a 500w amp.

Also, look at taramps. They are a lot smaller, and provide big power. I have their bass 3k amp in my setup now.

With that being said, I'm not sure just how much room you have behind your seat. With this being your first truck I'm guessing going to an AC isn't an option. If you do want the big boom, it's that or be prepared to loose some bed space and do a cab pass through. Big money and irreversible body cutting there though.


Edit: JL Audio does make a shallow sub, as do others. 10TW-1 still needs 4.3" mounting depth so your box would be around 7" deep at the bottom. The 10w0s I had need a tiny bit more, but come in cheaper.

 

I tell you whuat. I am a fan of Rockford Fosgate. I currently run 2 shallow 10s but I messed up and ordered dual 4ohm versions instead of dual 2ohm version so I have them wired at 4ohms and that only gets me 250watts from the Rockford amp I am running. Its rated for 500@ 2ohms and RF amps usually put out more than listed. Anyway I am happy with the setup and the cheap box they are in. Plenty of cow bell for an extended cab full size truck. I'm not sure of what box would fit those subs. There are plenty of boxes out there though or you may even go for building a box. Its not difficult.

Edit: My amp is rated at 300watts @ 4Ohms....again, plenty of cow bell.

 

What you are trying to do for $1500 is probably going to leave you a little short on quality of speaker and enclosure with an amp like that one you mentioned.

I would start with something like this:
https://www.jlaudio.com/products/cp112lg-tw1-2-car-audio-microsub-subwoofer-systems-93326

It's a sub in a box that's designed for the sub... that itself will out perform any home Depot job box with some unknown sub. You can get one to start and still afford a decent sub amp leaving room to put another one on the passenger side on a later day.
If the $1500 budget is just for the subs and a amp, then get two of these and a decent sub amp (might end up a little more $ total) but you'll be in a much better place.

 

What @bmf4069 shared is on point.

This is your 1st ride, I think we can all remember that well. My current Tundra is at least my 25th or 30th car, and I’ve done installs on hundreds of customers and friends cars, likely helped lay out systems for more than a thousand over my lifetime. That said, you are showing all signs you’re about to fall into several classic mistakes, and you also have misconceptions.

I’ve seen a single 8” driver slam harder than two 10”s that were using double the wattage because it was installed in a properly designed box, to meet the specific airspace and input requirements of the 8” and quality sub/amp with a solid aftermarket head unit with adequate line out; while the 10s were in a less tailored box, the subs/amp were budget brands fed by a factory radio with a PAC/LOC, and the amp didn’t have a properly fused dedicated power lead from the battery. A single, properly installed 8 will hit HARD in your truck. I personally have two shallow-mount 8s in my access cab, so I practice what I preach here.

Short version: Bigger isn’t better, 90%+ of having a killer system is in the install and design.

If you really want help, do yourself a favor. Arm yourself with info about these trucks. Read the “audio” section of this thread: https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

Then come back and let us know what you currently have in the truck for your head unit (if aftermarket, what model number?), and how it’s wired. Do you currently have any aftermarket speakers? How much wiring experience do you have, and do you have basic tools like crimpers (good ones, not the shit ones), since you’d be a fucking idiot to use wire nuts and electrical tape to install your audio?

 

Appreciate the advice, I'll go thru the forum when I get off work but tools aren't an issue, I make more money at 17 than I know what to do with so I'm tryna drop it on smth lol
I'm not home so I don't have the serial number of the head unit but it's not wired in yet, it will fit I've actually made sure.
No door speakers or tweeters yet was gonna do that this summer
I just want something stupid loud to mess with ppl

 

You're not going to win much help here with that. I think I speak for most prople over 20-25yo on this forum when I say: Moist folks hate punk kids who do stupid shit like that. Good audio is ultimately for you to enjoy, not for you to annoy the fuck outta people, assaulting everyone who is unfortunate enough to be within sound range.

 

Let me have my fun before I grow out of it

 

Oh, and just for reference, if you get an AC you can do this:






I'm old so I don't use it much. It's more for shock value.

 

I actually turn mine down in town. It's for me, not them. I show off for my friends but yeah, I keep it down in traffic.

 

I was that punk kid once upon a time with 4 Kicker comp 8’s in a custom box I built with a Punch amp in a hatch back. Fun times. Let the kid play. Just remember kid, try to be respectful of your surroundings when you’re slamming the subs back there. Not in the neighborhood, certainly not after 9-10pm. Unless you’re pulling up to your buddies house . Then feed those subs some juice baby!

 

I definitely was too. I'm just a f'ing curmudgeon these days. I'll definitely help the kid, but age and cantankery make me feel obligated to point out what dickheads we all looked like to the rest of the world when we were younger.

I won't PSA again.

 

Spot on sir. Kids will be kids. I've wanted 2 15s since I was 16. I got em now and I use them for personal enjoyment.

And if you wanna see it in action OP, here you go.

https://youtu.be/5d4MOF9MzVU?si=CSVOhELc8XwDCoz-

 

How about a pair of these? Then you have ported 12’s which have that deeper bass sound compared to smaller subs.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R2S1X12/Rockford-Fosgate-R2S-1X12.html


That’s $500, then you have $700 to buy good wiring and a quality amp from Fosgate like this one.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R2500X1/Rockford-Fosgate-R2-500X1.html

and money left over for some quality 6.5” speakers to round out your system

 

But what glorious fun it was in our youth

 

This is the amp I got:

https://www.taramps.com.br/en/produto/bass-3k/

It's $277 bucks and I run it at about 1k watts. It's a good brand that's still relatively unknown.

 

This is ultimately where I'd go, excellent pairing, will hammer. Check measures to make sure they'll both fit cleanly over any humps (like tranny hump) in the middle of the cab.

I'd fab up an amplifier mounting board to mount to the back cab wall OR straddle between those boxes, then mount the amp low and between the enclosures. Pre-drill the board to feed cables up through the backside, where it's invisible to people looking at it.

Don't drill the boxes to the cab with sheet metal screws if you can avoid it (water leak risk), instead, look for factory threaded holes you can use, and bend up brackets to hold the boxes in place. You can also create mounts using Liquid Nails to glue something to the body or floor, either to prevent boxes from sliding OR to create something non-metal to screw into for a shallow mount (if that doesn't make sense, I can explain or show pics).

Some of the big mistakes people make:

• Don't skimp on RCA cables ... Buy quality cables to feed the signal between your head unit and amp
• Don't skimp on your amp wiring kit ... Get good, large-gauge, oxygen free pure copper cables, Kicker makes a great kit, I can't talk it up enough
• Always use a dedicated FUSED power wire run for your amp ... If you buy a kit, it'll come with a fuse block, you MUST install that, ideally within 12" of your battery; if the cable passes thru metal anywhere, use a grommet to the metal doesn't wear thru or cut the wire
• Don't use a shitty ground for the amp ... Use an equally fat ground cable, and find a high-quality, paint-free, substantial place to bolt it to chassis, ground is just as important as power, you'll get all kinds of fucked up noise if you don't do right here
• Never run big fat power wires alongside RCA (low-level) cables, it's a common source of noise introduction ... If you have a tranny hump, consider running the power down the driver's side of the hump and RCA down the passenger side
• Any cables you run across the floors, use a small square of reflective tape (metal tape) every 12" or so OR any time the wire(s) get near a bolt, like seat mount or similar, so they never "drift" toward that bolt (pinch/short-out risk), you really want stuff to stay put, but not so much you can't easily pull 'em out later
• Try to avoid buying your shit on scAmazon, especially with stuff like Kicker amp wiring kits, you never know if you're getting a knockoff or not ... some sites, like Sonic Electronix are great places to save $$$ but the support and extra shit Crutchfield gives you, it's hard to beat buying from them.

 

I ain't telling you what to do. But a a bunch of subs and shit is the worst way to invest your $$$. Especially if you really are making "that much" at your age. I suggest investing into property or making your hard earned money make more money for you instead of you working to support an habit; and making passive income to support your hobbies will ensure all your bills are actually paid for.

otherwise you'll be broke/in debt before you know it.


Again, not telling you what to do, but I just think your $ can be better used somewhere else.


My system cost a whopping $500 and I know it'll making a lot of people who spent $1k upset

 

Who knew?!

So that box looks kinda' shallow and those subs look kinda' deep, are we sure they'll fit?

 

I fw this idea heavy might actually do this instead.

 

Damn you and your voice of reason!!

Sure wish you'da mentioned all this before I went and bolted $2 G's into my dash last week.

 

I'm available for private sessions

 

Well THAT sounds expensive!

 

Taking the advice from this thread this is the new setup
Amp: https://www.tarampstore.com/amplifier-taramps-bass-3000-1-channel-3000-watts-rms/p

Subs(2): https://www.crutchfield.com/S-cBa2QnbLKhg/p_575R2S1X12/Rockford-Fosgate-R2S-1X12.html

Haven't had time to check dimensions yet but will update when I do, worst case scenario I can just put a board over the floor behind the seat for the subs to go on and then mount that with the help of a few buddies with more experience and knowledge than me.
Wiring kit is to be decided but i won't cheap out

Would ported be better for rap and stuff like that? I've been looking at this box it should fit the truck and it's ported at the top
https://lifeafterbass.shop/products...d-enclosure-for-single-cab-trucks-behind-seat