What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Liquimoly, Seafoam, and BG all make solid flush products. They're not gimmicky, they serve a purpose. Just be ready to look for leaks afterwards, in case they break something loose that was keeping oil inside the engine. Like valve covers.

 

Yep, mudflaps. Both my rears were starting to tear.

I've worked and used to house sit a lot in a very rural agricultural (ranching) valley here in Montana. 60 miles to the next paved road once you hit dirt. Mostly large ranches, but also a National Wildlife Refuge, whose headquarters is the closest thing to being a "town" in the entire valley. Because of that, everyone's got a large, elevated gas tank, and the gas company comes through and fills them now and then. Etc. Self sufficient population. The refuge has the equipment to mount tires (I'm not even sure what it's called...). I was really surprised, watching a friend change a tire. I really always thought there was some type of sealant, but it's just the bead seated in the rim holding all that pressure...I had no idea.

Anyway that's one way to go, though I guess you still need to balance them.

 

Smart! Thank you. I just want to throw a larger clean filter on to prevent any chunks from clogging the old one, and also I’m adding 16oz so it will replace that amount.

liquid Molly Engine Flush

 

X2. We used to do this trick at the shop I worked at

 

Today I had it pinstriped and the TRD decals reinstalled.



By the way, gotta love that Thunder Grey. Above shot in sunlight, below under overcast skies just 2 hours later.

 

Did the pinstriper sign it?

 

Decals, nothing to sign.

 

Sign it. From 20ft away someones gonna see a 1/2"x2" signature from a certain angle & think its special. Hell, sign it yourself. Sign it on the sunny side & you can change your name every couple months.

 

Yeah, it's a thought.
I also picked up a really nice TRD cap at the dealership that pinstriped it. The TRD emblem is actually rubber. I've had my 4Runner for 12 years and never noticed they had a complete selection before. Gotta get new glasses.

 

Keep your eyes peeled, our local dealerships seem get in new iterations once or twice a year. I bought one for one of our forum members (along with some other stuff) during a secret santa a couple years back and I think it was winter camo or something? I picked up one for myself that was more of a trucker style, perf'd white back 2/3, with a light grey front panel and bill. The velcro-back ones fit pretty well and breathe well. I say that as a head-shaver.

 

Quick update. After hoping the Covercraft seat covers would air out just being installed on the truck for about a week, I couldn't take the chemical smell anymore so I washed them. After that, aside from finally not smelling toxic, they fit tighter with less wrinkles. As was pointed out, they're clearly not the highest-end custom fit that you can't even tell are on the seats. If I had color-matched they would have been less noticeable, but I tend not to like washed out colors, when the entire interior (or exterior) is one single color. I wanted some contrast, and I got it.

Durability will only prove itself over time, but in terms of relative cost vs quality, I'm happy.

I have no issues with leather in general, but I find cloth interiors to be more cozy, more sound dampening, just better for what I personally like, so I'm glad to have the leather covered with something a bit softer.

 

Anyone know if they're compatible?

 

Side mirror has been cracked down the middle since I've owned my truck. Replacing was way easier than I ever thought it would be. 5-8 seconds of heat from the mapp gas torch, let it soak, and it pealed off like butter. Isopropyl Alcohol cleaning.
No more double vision (varying with temp). Part ordered was exact fit, and correctly chromed for the lower reflective rate. Good fix, and stupid easy. (Should probably pop the whole assembly off and address that rust soon)




https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=12657461&cc=1357938&pt=6484&jsn=1

 

Do they look like they're compatable with your flares?

 

My passenger mirror cracked, and I broke the replacement trying to get them in. Sue from 1Aauto makes it look easy and I refuse to believe this was her first try.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MJFMcmR5iGA

Looks like Burco also sells just the mirror replacement for heated mirrors too, so I may give this a try too. Thanks for sharing.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=12657465&cc=1426935&pt=6484&jsn=512

 

I don't think you could get away with just swapping the glass on heated mirror. I can pull my broken one out and take a pic if you want to see what it looks like on the back side. You'd need to pop the mirror assembly off to get access to the connector for heat.

I posted the OEM replacement instructions that came with my passenger replacement. Some oncoming jackass came in my lane going through town and I high-fived another (parked) car's mirror swerving to miss them. Sucked ass. Their mirror was fine, it folded forward as it should. Mine flipped inward so hard it smacked the passenger window. Thankfully the window didn't break, but the mirror did. It was a mess.

Wish I had pics of the carnage, but I was so embarassed I didn't. It was a few months into lockdowns, June 2020 timeframe. I'd only had the truck for a little over a year or something and everyone had already forgotten how to drive from not being on the road for a month or three. Meh.

 

Parts diagram for a random 2000 regular cab vin:

https://toyota-usa.epc-data.com/tundra/vck30/3826/body/6552/?frame_no=5TBJN3214YS001201

Regular cab mud guards are:

RH: 76625-0C010
LH: 76626-0C010

These two appears to be what's in your ebay listing.

Parts diagram for a random 2000 access cab vin:

https://toyota-usa.epc-data.com/tundra/uck40/3802/body/6552/?frame_no=5TBBT4413YS055098

RH: 76625-0C010* matches RC
RH: 76625-0C020

LH: 76626-0C010* matches RC
LH: 76626-0C020

Enter your own VIN on https://toyota-usa.epc-data.com/tundra/ and see what part numbers are listed for your exact VIN. The AC options probably depend on the type of fenders you have, as @Mr.bee stated. ACs have two different fender flare types, while RCs only have one or none. Even if you don't have RC style fender flares, I wouldn't be surprised if they bolted on and worked with little-to-no modification.

 

Washed the truck today. Was covered in dust from hitting lots of service roads taking the kids out hiking every morning/afternoon since we got into town. Pics hafta wait. Wife wanted me to wash the Highlander with the kids as soon as I got done, so the truck got put away mostly-wet.

 

Burco's generic instruction video for replacing just glass looks pretty simple, but yeah, depends on how the Tundra connectors work with the backside of the glass. I kept the one I broke on my install attempt, so I can tear into that and see what the backside looks like.

 

Actually it may be doable, it’s just two spades on the rear, and orientation/polarity doesn’t matter. Here’s some pics of my old one. But you'd risk damaging something from scraping (I assume heat wouldn’t hurt it, it’s a f’n heater mirror).

​

 

Ps - If you need more pics or you need a passenger side replacement carcass to work with, and want or need my carcass, happy to ship it to you, free ride. HMU.

 

I watched this dude, (Bruce Willis's brother?)
Dude looks so bored doing it like he's done it a thousand times. Just slaps it together, prob because its freezing outside.
He does the heating element too, and he says NEVER pull the whole mount out, no need to.
EDIT: I see he did remove it for the heating element, but if you weren't doing that you wouldn't have to I guess.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nSbTtxtbv64&ab_channel=InternetGlassNetwork/Auto-glass.com

 

Used a hot air gun and a putty knife, not too difficult. Probably would have done better with the torch. I'm going to order the Burnco and maybe try this again with the broken mirror that's currently on the truck.

 

Should be. You should have the older style flares, unless the PO changed that too

 

Fixed my driver side seat arm rest. It was floppy and loosey goosey and would go past vertical when swinging it back up. Took the black cover off, popped the bolt button cover off and tightened down the bolt. No more loose arm rest. Glad something else wasn't broken.

 

Went to measure my parasitic current draw via both ground wires using my dc clamp meter. It’s roughly around 17 ma +/- 3mA (error is from doing precise measurements and checking against my Fluke 87v).

Not bad and within the 50mA spec limit (I believe).

 

Also, didn't need it, but looks like Toyota doesn't sell the negative terminal since it comes as part of the harness, but can pick one up

$16 NEW 926-053 926053 Negative Battery Terminal Crimp w Heat Shrink

here if needed.

 

What’s the red coating? Is that paint or something else?

 

Anti corrosion spray.

 

Exactly