Guidance? Prep for Steering Rack Replacement

Hi All,

Kids' and work schedules recently led to my needing to pick up a cheap reliable vehicle to get to work and back. I ended up buying an '01 SR5 AC with 267k on the odo. The timing belt was done within the last 20k miles, new oem LBJs, no rust and the truck appeared to be generally well taken care of. So, I pulled the trigger. However, when looking at the truck, I did notice the steering rack was leaking but didn't let that throw off the deal since the rest of the truck was solid and the steering was tight and showed no issues apart from the leak.

Anyway, I have now had the truck about 3 months and have driven close to 2k miles and everything is going great. Now comes the time to swap out that steering rack. This is where I was hoping for some guidance. You see, I have 5 year old triplets and my wife and I both work ~50-60 per week. So, time is very hard to come by. I got a quote from a shop to do the rack, plus the surrounding parts (intermediate shaft, etc.) for $3,200. Given that I paid $5k for the truck, I said thank you and opted to do it myself (as I am fairly mechanically inclined.)

My mother in law is in town for a weekend and will be able to take care of the kids while I tackle this project...BUT...I only have one shot--one day--to get everything right.

So, I wanted to run my list of items I have in hand by the group here to see if I am missing anything that would prevent me from finishing the project in one day.

For guidance, I have the FSM Tundra Manual pages printed; the Chilton Repair Manual; the following youtube videos and write ups:

2000-2006 Toyota Tundra Rack & Pinion Replacement (youtube.com)

2000-2006 TUNDRA STEERING RACK BUSHING REPLACEMENT - DIY (youtube.com)

Tundra Steering Rack Replacement 2000-2006 (youtube.com)

Step-by-Step: Replacing the Steering Rack on a 1st Gen Tacoma (or 3rd Gen 4Runner) – ADVENTURETACO [I know this is a tacoma, but the process appears to be very similar]

First:

The rack--I tried as hard as I could to get OEM, but it is simply not available at the moment. Dealers were saying no eta on when the back order would end and I had multiple online orders cancelled. So, I am going with detroit axle -- I have read every horror post about Detroit Axle (and all aftermarkets) but, given my limited chance to tackle it, I have to pull the trigger on DA. I am hoping for the best.

So, then come the extra parts and tools:

(1) Moog outer tie-rods - including castle nuts and cotter pins (mine appear to be in good shape but I have these on hand in case they aren't);
(2) OEM Part Number 45860-34020, Intermediate Shaft Assembly (again, I think mine is fine, but want to have it on hand in case it's not);
(3) Dex 3 ATF
(4) Sockets: 24mm 22mm 19mm 17mm 12mm
(5) Swivel socket attachments
(6) Torque Wrench
(7) Full set of flare wrenches
(8) Full set of ratcheting wrenches
(9) Breaker bar
(10) Pitman arm puller (I know I can use a hammer on the knuckle, but want to have on hand for any issues)
(11) Energy suspension polyurethance steering rack bushing set
(12) SilGlide (for the bushings)
(13) Siphon pump (to pull as much fluid out of the reservoir as possible)
(14) Drain pan

So, am I missing anything? Your help is greatly appreciated!!!

 

Where at in AZ are you? I’m down south if you want some help

 

There's a bro for you!

And to his point, you WILL want an extra pair of hands for this specific job, it's the one thing nearly everyone who tried to tackle it solo (or with help!) has said. It may be worthwhile to engage a forum member for that help if you can make it work.

BTW, what's the story with the bed re-paint? Clearly has been repainted... accident?

 

An extra set of hands will help, but I did do mine by myself without complaint

just be aware that I believe those Moog outer TRE's have grease fittings. I'm not sure about your model, but my 06 2WD had sealed with no fittings on the truck so I wanted it like stock instead of a few random grease fittings to worry about

Nice looking truck by the way!


Oh, by the way, Detroit axle claims you have to do a bleed procedure on then new rack after you install it or it will leak power steering fluid
It's also filled with a dyed hydraulic fluid for their leak test so I think that will help get rid of that

 

One last thing. Detroit Axle does not include the O-rings where the power steering lines attach to the steering rack. You might want to check on that upfront. I had a heckuva time finding some suitable

 

I dunno if you already bought the rack, but there is one that comes assembled. You just have to screw on the TREs. I'll say that it does help a lot to have two people to do this, and Frenchy is a very stand up dude. Looks like you've got all your ducks in a row.

Oh, and I have the DA rack in my truck. It's been perfectly fine. How do your hoses look?

 

Might check your reservoir hoses. My leaked at 200K. Might also try an oz or two of

$15 AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks, 8 Ounce Bottle

AT-205 which softens seals. Here in the South Toyota of SE sells a specific clear PS fluid for our trucks and it’s reasonable price. Two girls garage has an episode of a tundra rack rebuild using basic tools.

 

And some replaced the reservoir, as did I, with an aftermarket because it is not easy to get the crud out of the bottom

 

I hate to put a damper on things, but I still had an unresolved power steering fluid leak after replacing mine with Detroit axle. I let the shop take a glance at it today since they were rebalancing my tires and they said it is coming from the actual rack

I still think it is probably a good product, but it sounds like I will have to totally redo mine

of course it is under warranty but that doesn't save me hours of work again

 

I just did mine solo, and another person on the re install would have been nice but really not necessary.

if anything is going to be stuck and halt the job it will be the steering coupler, good on you for getting the intermediate shaft. I think it holds him up in the 1A Auto video and it did me too. I would get that disconnected first, so you know you don’t have an issue if you absolutely must get it back together in one shot. I’ve heard nothing corrodes and freezes in the desert so you will be good!

 

Thanks for stepping up!! But, I am actually in Vegas -- there's a facebook group here that is pretty involved. I have my father to assist me as well. He used to build cars back in the day including restoring a 73 Porsche, so while he's a bit older these days, his hands could be useful.

 

That seems to be the consensus--the reinstall is where it can be a challenge for solo.

As for the bed respray -- this was just a random picture I had handy on my phone when making the post -- I can see what you mean in the picture, but it's not noticeable in person. HOWEVER, maybe you just have a good eye because the CARFAX did show a minor accident in 07 on that panel:

 

They do have grease fittings -- you're just saying for consistency you preferred no grease fittings? Or, is there a downside to them (other than greasing?)

 

This is the rack I bought -- 2001 Toyota Tundra Power Steering Rack and Pinion (Brand New) (detroitaxle.com)

Can you (or anyone else) point me to the o-rings you're talking about?

 

Nice. Another option is sometimes those CraigsList mobile mechanics that charge hourly can come in handy if you already know what you’re doing and just need help. They sometimes also have tools you don’t!

 

Good thought -- that way if it wont come off, I'm not sitting there with no rack on. Appreciate the input!

 

Good thought! Between Amazon and Harbor Freight, gathering the small parts I didn't already have hasnt been too pricey. For the occasional use (as opposed to using everyday as a mechanic) I am sure those will be fine.

 

Thank you all for the quick input. I expected some response, but your willingness to help is remarkable!

 

Hang around, there's plenty of knowledge on this forum. You've got a pretty stand-up group of folks on here, it's a rare oasis these days on the internet.

Just heed the forum rule about keeping your politics under your hat in public.

Oh, and be careful buying parts on scAmazon and fleaBay. Knockoffs/counterfeits are rampant these days. Tools, well, as long as you're not expecting authentic namebrand or OK with PRC-mainland-sourced cheapies, do it up. No different from Harbor Frieght/Northern Tool.

 

No downside other than an extra maintenance item occasionally

And for those with 4WD it's just two more grease fittings to grease because they already have several others in the drivetrain.

For me, I don't have to use a grease gun on my truck so why add to my maintenance when all of those sealed parts on my truck lasted 200,000 to 300,000 miles


Again, just my personal preference but also something to be aware of up front. If I had a four-wheel-drive that I had to grease already, then it would absolutely not make one bit of difference

 

@FrenchToasty where are you? Tucson? I'm in Tempe. Any 1GT meet ups in AZ ever happen? Would be fun to get a few together some weekend.

 

Yep the dirty T. We do some trail runs up in the basin every so often. Next time something is going on I’ll let you know. Tundras 2 Sedona is always fun too, usually at shniebly hill turn off on the 17 in April

 

I think you've got all the knowledge you need from the members here and the links you posted. I did mine with the Adventure taco link you have and the Toyota service manual.
Might not be a bad idea to spray down the bolts and maybe even intermediate shaft a day or two before you start working with whatever rust penetrant you like. Let things soak, heat up while you drive, and spray down again. I know you don't have rust issues, but sand can be a bitch sometimes.
Good luck to you.

 

Thank you! That is some good reassurance. I will definitely update the post on the outcome.

One previous response mentioned O-Rings -- did you need any?

 

I didn't need any o-rings, but I used a Toyota OEM rack. I'm about to have to do the job again on my new (to me) truck but will try and wait for the Toyota racks to come back in stock. I too tried to order from probably 5 different locations and was told the same thing about a nationwide backorder.

 

I didn't need any O-rings for mine.

 

Following along as I'm also in the market for a replacement steering rack for my 06 sequoia (240k)

Glad to hear that OEM racks are hard to find at the moment, makes me feel better when I inevitably go aftermarket cause I don't want to spend that kind of money on a 20 year old vehicle... Haha

I too am planning on using DA brand. Would be interested to hear your feedback on quality after it's done.

Good luck!

 

> Factory/OEM part lasts 20 years and is finally failing
> Complains about how painful cost is for replacement OEM part that'll last 20 more years
> Doesn't "want to spend that kind of money on a 20yr old vehicle", goes out and buys aftermarket part that cost 40% less instead
> Has to replace again 5-6 years later, due to inferior product, premature wear, if lucky enough it lasts that long, knowing how shitty aftermarket quality is in today's globalist/capitalist/profit-driven world where the consumer is sheeple garbage
> Definitely doesn't want to spent OEM dollars after already spending that money, so buys another aftermarket
> Now spent 20% more than OEM part all-in
> Has to replace again 5-6 years later, same story
> Now out 50% more than OEM part, on two parts, and labor+time to install parts that barely lasted 1/4 as long as OEM would've
> ... PROFIT?!

I'd try to source OEM if you can. While Detroit Axle may've worked alright for a couple of years for a couple of members, OEM has a better track record for longevity nearly across the board. D.A. is probably a good fallback if no OEM, but someone was literally just selling a brand new reman rack in the 1st Gen Marketplace for like $250 or something, IIRC?

 

Yeah... I feel gross when I don't buy OEM. But it's a 20 year old vehicle with 240k miles on it. It also has 2 teenager drivers in it's near future. I'm certain I won't be driving this vehicle in another 20 years. For one the Toyota rust will have finished it off long before then...

I'm not defending cheap Chinese aftermarket parts. I use Toyota OEM on all 3 of my yotas more than anything else. Just saying sometimes it's worth the risk. I could replace it twice and still be cheaper (my labor is free, I like turning wrenches)

 

they are on the end of the two power steering fluid lines. They were so small that I didn't even see them the first time. Sounds like your old ones were adequate though