What have you done to your 2.5 gen Tundra today?

Did you also check the fuse in the kick panel on the vehicle's interior??? I'm assuming you did, but didn't see that step in your write up, so thought I'd ask....

The fuse and relay under the hood are easily identified as being related to fog lights. However, iirc there's an additional one in the kick panel that deals w/a couple of different systems labeled 'tail' and is a 15amp fuse... *** not sure if all model years are the same, but take a quick look ***

It should sit almost directly across from a 30amp 'dual slot' fuse labeled 'power 1'... I'm not sure why the tail light fuse would be tied into the fog lights (really makes no sense to me), but this was the problem for a couple of folks that did fog light upgrades in the factory location....

 

Pretty sure if that tail light fuse is blown, the transmission is " bricked". You won't be able to get it out of park.

 

I checked all the interior fuses for 12v. What’s been bugging me is that this fog light problem could also be tied to my headlight & taillight upgrade. Apparently, they released an updated resistor for all sequential lighting and I have one installed on the driver-side, but waiting for another to be installed on the passenger side (back-ordered for over a month and counting).

 

I believe about 1/2 of the problems w/fogs have occurred when people were doing other lighting upgrades; kinda sucks because it makes it much more difficult to chase down. Good luck on your quest though

 

Come to think of it, it may make some sense why the fog light is not working if they’re tied to the tail light fuse. The original resistors for the tail lights were each 15 Ohms (which cause the turn signals to hyper flash), but the updated resistors are now each 7.5 Ohms. Perhaps the tail lights have too much resistance?

My next plan of action:
- unplug tail lights, try again
- unplug headlights, try again
- replace headlamp dimmer switch, try again
- replace tail light resistor with updated one, try again
- put all lights in “standard” mode instead of “sequential” mode, try again
- bypass the relay and wire up a manual switch

 

BEEF

 

One step closer to a fully blacked out interior!
- Sony XAV-9500ES Plug N Play Kit
- OEM Black Instrument Panel Sub-Assembly (55405-0C020-C1)

 

I’m a bit confused here… I checked the tail light 15A fuse, but I’m not getting 12v. I swapped out the fuse for a spare, but get the same result. However, my tail lights are still working. Am I missing something?

 

Does the brake pedal have to be pressed for 12v to be sent through the fuse?

 

It appears that terminal is not getting 12v regardless. Checked with key in the on position and with and without the brake pedal being pressed (brake light still turned on).

 

You may get more assistance if you make a thread devoted to this in the garage electrical section, or the regular 2.5 section. Lots of members who may be able to help, don't look at this thread often. Not to mention keeping it all in line with each other and in one concise location so others can benefit in the future.
Just my 2c. No hate.

 

Did you pull the fuse and check at the terminals themselves? You can't always depend upon what the fuse says.

 

Finally figured it out! It was the license plate bulbs… replaced them with LEDs and accidentally reversed the polarity on one or both, which was preventing the wiring harness from completing the circuit.

Remember kids… when engineering a wiring harness, always tie your front fog lights to your rear license plate illuminating lights.

 

That makes zero sense. I don't even have license plate lights and my fogs work fine. You must've just had a fluke and it fixed itself when the Sun aligned with the pyramids or something.

 

You just gotta know a guy with tiny hands and pay him with a beer or two

 

Finally starting my chrome delete!

 

Push bar/LP9 mounts in progress

 

I have seen you jump where that bar would be buried in the ground on landing. Whatcha pushin’?

 

lol pedestrians. Hopefully the 3.0s help with that looking for Pennie’s scenario

 

Do you have secondaries up front?

 

Yep I had 2.5 king triple bypasses up front now moving to the 3.0 triple bypasses with custom valving etc. Old 2.5s pic attached

 

Nice when you have room. I cannot fit a nickel anywhere in the front end without an issue. One of these days the Icon set will be up for sale. Talked with their ‘team' so many times and I never get any solid information from them and rarely do answers come quickly. If hindsight were 20:20

 

I'll make you deal on my kit lol. Since I'm moving to the LSK race kit upfront and redoing the rear lol

 

Apparently my fun days are over with retirement. This whole deal put me in a bind with a build going on in another state. All because… that’s right I was not given a reason just that the position has been eliminated. Now the guys at work are looking for somebody to do my work. So much for ‘elimination’

Thanks, appreciate the offer but LT on Colorado trails sounds very tight. It is already tight with the Tundra pig without LT. I had my eye on the glass front end for a while that was for sale in San Diego but right when I was going to pull the trigger the rug was pulled from under me. Not to mention I still do not have a functioning right hand

 

Totally understandable

 

Keep us updated if you would. According to the project farm youtube, that stuff didnt last all that long, iirc from his video.

 

Cerakote trim coat is the shit. Been using since I had a wrangler. Lasts a very long time even here in the pnw weather

 

And we’re off again.

 

Picked it up time to rip it apart and get it buttoned up. Looks badass