Sniv Speed Shop - Custom Parts and Design

Well shit, put me down.

 

Sounds good! I've made zero progress on it lately, but I've had a handful of people randomly asking about it in the past two weeks. I'm thinking later today I'll push some updates into the design and probably send it off for quote for a prototype. I wanted to make the 3D printed model work, but that sounds like a lot of effort when I can just buy the real thing and hopefully it works. Regardless, it probably won't be available until this fall for an actual production unit.

 

I can confirm my current 90mm does make more power at higher RPMs as a result of more boost. I'm on the Harrop 85mm pulley which is supposed to be 6-7PSI, but I see 9.6PSI even with my exhaust reducing it. I can't wait to see what the 103mm does.

 

Yes, in these positive displacement blowers you want the biggest intake tract possible from all the info banks and Richard Holdner say. I can say it makes a difference. We’ve always run big intakes and TBs on blown cars. Blower flows more takes less effort to make power. It’s like suckin through a straw

 

I gained 1.5 over the rcf

 

Check again! They look to have them available now.

 

Sweet, I'll have to reach out to them again, thanks for the heads up!

 

More air=more fuel=more power. It definitely had more power but I did install a 4.5 inch intake with the 84mm TB. It was definitely more power getting into the skinny pedal.
I'm now using a GM 95mm TB.

 

Just an FYI, I contacted ID (Injector Dynamics) since they are the gold standard for performance injectors and although they do not have it specifically listed for the 3urfe they can put together a full set for our trucks!
They just needed to find out the dimensions for the stock injector, iirc the distance between the upper and lower orings and were confident they could put together a set.
I decided to just stick with 650's since I dont plan on going past stage-2 but if you're in the market for more than give them a call.

 

And @carn_dogg

I tuned a dude a couple weeks ago and he has 1000cc injectors from Fuel Injector Clinic, part number 1000-53-11-16-8 and this was the data sheet he sent me:



He claimed they were for a GT500? I'm not sure if they're plug and play. If you search that part number there's a weird website that lists them as for Toyota V8 but that's it.

 

Dang. Wish I knew this earlier. Not sure I’ll engage them unless I end up getting a new trans in a couple years

 

Huge post, a lot of photos, but wanted to show everything I did on a customer's truck. I'm stoked how it turned out so wanted to share what I did, not to advertise anything but I guess to show what I would expect any shop to do (and thus why I have a hard time letting other places touch my stuff).

I don't advertise working on people's trucks, most people are fine paying Jiffy Lube $150/hr but heaven forbid paying a guy rebuilding your supercharger, designing and building custom brackets, wiring gauges, etc. all at one place a similar pay rate. So in general I avoid working on other people's stuff. Plus I have a normal full time job, so doing something like this is working all day and then spending a couple hours after work on someone else's vehicle---and personally I'd rather work on my own stuff or hang out with my wife. But this guy I had been talking to for a few months, and given him some quotes before, and he seemed willing to pay for the services. He wanted it done as good as possible, and that's what I tried to do.

And as anyone can attest that has worked with me tuning their truck or other stuff, my philosophy is to give the experience I would want. So in this case I gave the dude a call usually every other day, or if anything was going wrong or if I had different ideas how to do things better, then I would make sure he was completely in the know. I would also text him pictures of the progress I made every day. And at the end I gave him a box of all the parts (even seals) I pulled off the truck. This is his truck, he should know every single thing that's happening so there's no surprises. Transparency goes a long way in my opinion.



This was a 2011 Platinum Crew Cab with a big drop bracket, and seemingly supercharged from the dealer.



Dude had just bought it so wanted me to go through it plus throw some upgrades at it.



Some cool old stickers on it:



The first thing to do was to pull the blower off. In typical fashion all Tundras are slightly different. This one had a really weird connector for the fuel rail on the passenger rear side, and had this cylindrical snap on thing that held the two sides together. Can't really see it, but never seen it on the (albeit few) Tundras I've messed with.



Of course, I had somehow lost my supercharger wrench so had to make another one. The interior mounting bolts of the blower to the head are a complete bitch, but a little wrench like this helps a ton. Combine that with a 1/4" drive swivel going to a 12mm socket that's cut down by about 50% and you can use this tool to break the bolts free and torque them, and then the 1/4" drive can pretty quickly pull them out. Though I usually have my wife still come to get the last few threads out with her smaller hands.



Another tool I "made" was taking some pliers and grinding them down. I had seen some fuel injection fitting specific pliers in the supercharger thread, but had forgot to buy them so ground these down and they actually worked amazing for getting the fuel connections off since it let me clamp just the tabs to compress the fitting.



Blower and injectors popped out. I had new DW650 injectors ready to go in. I vacuum everything with a little necked down vacuum attachment for the shop vac, and then wipe down the injector area with Q-tips and alcohol to try and get as much dirt out as possible. I also vacuum the intake runners to get any dirt out that falls in when the injectors are pulled out.



At first I had pulled the blower to pull the snout off so I could pull the stock pulley and press on one of my modular hubs. I know (well heard) this can be done on the truck, but it's pretty easy to pull the blower off the truck and a lot more controlled to just do it on the work bench with the 3-jaw puller and then I can use my press to put the hub on in a controlled manner.



At this point it was decided I should go ahead and replace all the seals on the blower. They weren't in bad shape per se but some were a little boogered up. Additionally we had talked about doing the supercharger oil awhile back, and since I now had the whole thing on the bench I could easily do that too, effectively go through and freshen the blower.



The truck did not have a catch can, though I did install a Radium PCV one. You can see how much oil goes through the intake without a catch can.



In general I wouldn't be too worried about this, it looks gross but I still think it's not really needed. However inside the blower was a bit of a different story, with literal puddles of oil.



You can also see in that photo the fucked up seal on the top left.



This section of oil was two inches deep! Granted this oil has to go through the intercooler where it's obviously condensing and falling back, but I can't help to think that a decent bump offroad and you are splashing a lot of liquid into the intake runners.

Anyway, I cleaned it up as much as I could, replaced all the seals I could reach, replaced the supercharger oil, replaced the coupler, and installed my hub and a 2.0" pulley.



I also did the seals between the supercharger lid and the intercooler.



The brake clean did a lot of work.



And back together! The outside would get cleaned up more later. I also replaced the intake manifold seals that go against the head.



Most of this happened simultaneously since I would work on one part of the truck, wait for parts for another section, etc. so I was always moving around. Another thing I did was install a valve body from IPT.



That was pretty painless, though two bolts broke on the trans pan. One I was able to get out, and the other I had to drill out and after tapping it it wouldn't line up with the transmission pan gasket spacer, so I went ahead and opened it up and converted it to a through bolt. Which may seem janky, but I actually much prefer that since the bolt shouldn't ever get stuck in there. Worst case you snap the bolt if it's corroded and you have two pieces that pull out and then put another bolt and nut in. Additionally you can usually get more clamp load with a steel nut as opposed to the tapped aluminum. Ideally it would've been tapped, but obviously my drilling skills weren't on center, so while not the first choice for the completed fix, in no way inferior in my opinion. I also swapped all the bolts out for stainless bolts and nuts since some of the other bolts were corroded and I didn't think it was worth it to clean them up. Everything was slathered with anti seize of course too. The valve body was straight forward, no issues. I did have one plug that snapped getting it off, but was able to salvage it and with some zip tie trickery was able to get it to latch and sit happy.

Along with the valve body, I was tasked with adding a cooler from Tru-Cool. The first one I bought ended up being extremely derpy, so I bought a bigger one which worked great. I made some aluminum brackets on the table.





The cooler is pretty huge, and it's inline with the stock cooler that's part of the AC condenser. There's two brackets, the big top one (it's held to the body in two spots, one you can't see) and then another bracket on the bottom that can't be seen. I think it turned out pretty good, it's extremely sturdy and massive. It's insane to me that people pay for similar kits to this for $1000+ when this whole setup was like $150.

The transmission I filled up and did a partial drain a couple times. The method to check the fluid level is so convoluted I wanted to make sure it was right. The original fluid was absolutely disgusting and smelled horrible, and by the end the fluid was all extremely clean coming out. In total I put 4 gallons of fresh fluid through it.

Another thing I did was a larger fuel pump. I have to mention @carn_dogg help, he told me the part number to use for the DW300 pump which made it a direct plug and play which was a nice surprise. And from his testing we knew that the Magnuson pump wasn't enough to fully supply the 650cc injectors.



I also installed an AFR gauge. This was an Innovate PSB-1, and the bung they include in my opinion is way too long, so I like to cut them down.



And then welded on. I've heard of a few people who have had pin holes in the welds on their O2 bung so air was being let in. I think on my personal truck I just MIG welded it, but MIG welds are really hard to seal so I used the TIG in this case. Little undercut, but for a sensor mount that sees no load it'll be fine.



With the cut down bung you can see the O2 sensor (bottom right) now sits well into the exhaust stream similar to the stock sensor. I like to mount the aftermarket sensor right next to the stock sensor so positioning eliminates any variables when comparing sensor readings between the two sensors. If one sensor is in a different spot, the stock sensor and aftermarket one may read different, which makes troubleshooting harder since there's more variables at play. In this case the two sensors should cross reference exactly the same.



I ran the AFR sensor wires through the driver's side rubber grommet. On the inside, since this is a 2011, I decided to do my classis "stock brake controller cubby mount". I started off with a piece cut on the table and then hit it with the flappy wheel, but I didn't like the finish so I cut another plate and then machined the face down on the mill to get a nicer and more consistent finish.



This is the same file from my truck from like 5+ years ago, and still working great! Couple trucks out there with this setup now. And my god I think it looks SO good! By far the best sensor mounting aesthetic in my opinion. This guys truck had more of a gray interior compared to the silver on my personal truck, but it still blends in pretty nice.



This truck did not have a factory brake controller, and there was only the tow/haul button there. I moved the tow/haul button to the switch blanks to the left of the gauge so everything looks factory still. The gauge pulls power from the cigarette lighter and the dimmer function is tied into the tow/haul switch backlight. The Innovate gauge also comes with different bezels and back panel colors. Personally I like the silver outer ring and black inner ring, it really blends the gauge into the mount I think. I've had lots of people think my AFR gauge was a factory option which is what I try to go for and why I go to such lengths to dial in the mounting and aesthetics. And of course all the wiring behind the gauge is cleaned up, zip tied, the datalogging cable is connected and hidden behind the kick panel, etc. The Innovate has a lot of wiring coming off the gauge, but the cubby behind the gauge is really huge so the wire loops don't need to get cut down if they're organized.

Oh something I forgot to mention, the exhaust was an absolute bitch. I was able to pull the downpipe off the passenger collector fine, and when I went to reinstall it two of the studs on the collector snapped and the third stripped out. Somehow they unthreaded fine but going on (and not cross threaded) and they seized up and shit the bed. This turned into a complete cluster fuck trying to fix it. Ultimately I cut the collector studs, and made some custom 16" long drill bits and was able to drill all three out from under the truck. I then used through bolts to hold the exhaust together, which in my opinion is a FAR superior method in this case. The down pipe has to slide over the collector studs, and then on the back side the downpipe has a section of tube that slides into the cat-back, so it's a complete bitch to get the downpipe out and in since you have to pry it either off the cat back or off the studs. Now with it being through bolts, you slide it into the cat back, and then the collector side is effectively two flat plates so it's a LOT easier to install. Additionally, if the bolts ever seize up they can get cut or sheared and then just replaced, they won't become seized since they're not threaded into the exhaust itself. This was a whole fiasco, and went from going smoothly to being a complete pain.



Let's see what else did I do. I installed the catch can as I said. The catch can bracket is way overly complicated and it kind of pinches the wiring harness, so I like to cut it down into a simple two bolt bracket. No pictures of that, but that got tweaked on. I also installed new IKH24 plugs. I removed the emissions filter screen thing in the airbox. Made a custom bracket for the MAP sensor for the Innovate gauge so that's tucked nicely next to the brake booster. I boost referenced the fuel pressure regulator. I cleaned up some old wiring all around.

I also replaced the passenger side factory O2 sensor, once I started tuning it started acting up. I don't think I screwed it up, but maybe. It would read totally fine at start up and a few minutes in it would read full lean. Luckily NAPA had a replacement Denso on hand so I replaced that and no issues. During that whole process I found an injector seal on the table, so the troubleshooting was pretty extensive since I pulled all the injectors to verify they had their seals, which they all did. Not sure where that injector seal came from, but one of the seals on the old injectors was all jammed and fucked looking so I'm guessing that injector had two seals on it and was smashed into the head, since I somehow ended up with 17 seals, one looked really fucked, and 16 injectors.



But to wrap it up, I tuned the truck. First up here and then took it down the hill so put maybe 200 miles on it making sure it was running right. Even with the trans cooler the trans was running extremely hot, like 220 on the interstate with the converter locked up. I pinned the themostat and temps dropped to 185. I don't know if the trans is just old, or the valvebody did this, but between forcing lockup in the tune and pinning the thermostat the temps are now under control. But before that temps in the pan were easily 220, and the converter hit 240+ multiple times just normal driving.

Tuning was straightforward, the fueling was a little weird. The enrichment seemed slaved to the throttle position which I've never seen, and not necessarily a bad thing, but I did make some extra provisions in the tune where it actually richened out extra getting into boost and then "leaned" out at higher rpm. At WOT it'd be at 10.5, but just into power enrichment it'd be at like 12.5, then into 11s with more throttle. Which is actually good and nice, but I didn't like how it was in the 11s at 90% throttle and only into the 10s at full throttle, so had to tweak it to richen out more at the lower throttle (did this via MAF Base table).

But she ran great! Was making 10psi at 2600ft elevation, 7-8psi at 6000ft. Dude picked the truck up yesterday, so I had it for two weeks, I worked on it after my normal job for about 10 days, and charged a total of 34 hours plus there was ~$2800 of parts installed. The 34 hours does not include the tuning time (which was billed as a $200 flat rate, and included in the parts price).

This is how I would setup a Tundra and some details of specifics I would do, and what I would expect to get out of a shop doing work.

 

Nice job and write up as usual. There are a few options for the transmission cooler that don't break the bank.

 

Badass brother! Amazing how much oil blow by happens. Mine gets blow by even with the catch can. We’ll see how much is in there when I yank the blower soon.

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/parts-list-for-adding-oem-trans-cooler-to-5-7l.125248/
Parts for a late Gen 2.5, double check for Gen 2.
There are a few other threads for part #s.

 

Very nice, just like every one of us would like the work to be done on our trucks were we to need someone else to do so. Great attention to detail and flexibility in solving unforeseen hiccups.

My truck, also a 2011, has the same connector. What a pain in the ass it has been, especially giving the number of times I've swapped out my injectors. The wiring harness is really tight there on my truck as well, which just complicates the issue further. I've fiddled with it once or twice, then noticed that the plastic has something to the tune of "do not separate" molded into it, and it just seemed to want to flex and deform anyway. The combination of the two make getting the fuel rail spacer and the injectors lined up a genuine exercise in patience. I've seen a couple of photos where other trucks have the same connector in that location as are at the other three locations.

Oh, and that S/C mounting bolt at the passenger side firewall, it's not any easier to access on the TVS 2650.

 

Interesting, my 2008 has the square plastic connectors at every corner. I even tried to separate the fuel line after I pulled the injector rail off, and could not for the life of me get all those little metal tangs to fold out of the way to separate it so just gave up. Really weird that it's only in one spot. The harness seemed extra tight on this truck too, to the point I unplugged everything on the valve cover so I could try and shove it to the side as much as possible.

My personal truck seems to be a unicorn of simplicity and working like it should. I work on another Tundra expecting and remembering what I did on my truck, and yet it always ends up being harder hahaha

 

Those tangs looked to me to be some of those "bend once only before breaking" types.
Ya, I was able to "find a little slack" in the wiring harness by doing the same.
When I still had the TVS 1900 on and was changing out injectors, I made the mistake of pulling out the fuel line that passes behind the blower from the driver to the passenger side to make reinstalling the passenger fuel rail easier, or so I thought. That turned into a project to try to fish back into place as it needed to go under those two wiring harness mounts between the blower and the firewall, the hose isn't long enough to just go around them.

 

@snivilous if that dude isn’t sending the stock valve body back to IPT or keeping it, and if you didn’t have dibs of course, I would be interested in buying it to use for a core to send to IPT to lessen downtime. It’s probably spoken for, but figured I’d mention it!

 

I removed those black connectors because it was a pain getting slack. When I had my transmission out I tried to go from the back side to move the harness up. You may gain a 1/2 inch to move it up. I have enough room to get the fuel rail off...

 

Nice job sniv. Rare finding someone to work on your truck that would treat it like their own, taking no short cuts along the way. Good on you. I’m sure your customer is very happy. Kudos

 

With the TVS 2650 there aren't any provisions to mount the tabs that support the wiring harness. I just left it be, I can't imagine that it moves much given how stiff it is, and the engine isn't going to move much with the Solid Off Road engine mounts. I don't think letting the harness "hang" like that really creates any slack, but after changing out injectors a few times now, I know what to expect if there's ever a next time. On the passenger side I have to start from the back and line things up as I go forward. On the driver side I can drop them all straight in.

 

You are correct, already spoken for and going back to IPT! Dude got the upgraded valvebody from IPT and then is sending the one from the truck back. So you can conceivably do that so there is no down time.

I don't hook the harness to the back of the blower either. What an absolute pain it was to undo those rear bolts. My truck I never even hooked those up from day one and never had any issues. More slack from the harness, no issues fishing the fuel line through the back if need be, and easier to install/remove the blower.

 

Another truck through the shop! Last weekend I went camping and on the return trip I picked up two Tundras from Salt Lake City. Put one on a trailer behind the semi and had the wife drive the other. The truck on the right is another one from the same guy I did the previous upgrades to, and the one on the left is his friend that he recommended to me and the one this post will cover. This one is a 2021 and he bought a new Magnuson 2650 so I was going to be installing that, plus a few budget oriented tweaks so not going crazy on it.



This was my first time seeing a Magnuson 2650 in person let alone messing with and installing it. This post will more of be my complaints and stuff I liked about the Magnuson 2650. From posts on the forum I knew to remove the brass plug for the boost bypass port, which as others have experienced ended up getting stripped out so I had to drill and use an EZ out on it.



Some things about the new Magnuson are nice, others are stupid. For example, the new blower has a similar layout to other manufacturers blowers where the bolts (or some in this case) to hold the blower down are installed from inside the blower body, so you pull the cover off like the above photo and put the bolts in, which is great, the 1900 Magnuson has nearly impossible to reach bolts due to not using this layout. But then the brass plug is stuck in the blower, and why does it even come plugged? Hell they don't even include the 1/8 NPT barb to go in if you wanted to use it. I had to go to the hardware store just to grab a barb, talk about being cheap. And in classic Magnuson fashion, they want to reuse and cut up half the hoses on the engine, I guess to save money? But it feels like so much penny pinching, you're paying $8k for a blower and you're forced to cut up your crank case vent hose into three pieces instead of getting nice new hoses.

Additionally, the rotor pack oil port is still on the back of the blower so no real way to reach it when it's installed. Since you have to pull the top cover on the blower anyway, I would think that could've been incorporated inside the blower but oh well. On the note of the rotor pack, this one came with an excessive amount of grease at the interface?



I would've though that area would use RTV to seal it, assuming it didn't have a proper gasket. But they appear to have slathered it with grease on the mating surface which was kind of weird and ended up getting on stuff every time I'd grab the back of the blower.

Oh another stupid budget cutting measure---they want you to use the intake seals from the stock intake. Luckily I just happened to have new seals sitting in my toolbox (who knows why they were there). But come on, $8k for a blower and you want to reuse the rubber gaskets for the head interface? Give me a break. That's not the only seals either, they also want to reuse the injector seals. I really wish Magnuson would embrace the Tundra a bit more and actually over provide the hardware a bit. The other supercharger manufacturers supply big injectors, big fuel pump, but the Magnuson supplies JUST ENOUGH to make it work which really annoys me. Everyone else gets 650cc injectors and 300lph+ pump and all new hardware, but the Magnuson gives you the same 535cc injectors from 2007 and a tiny fuel pump and you reuse your seals. Wow.

This guy had a winch so I made a custom bracket to move the intercooler pump over since it didn't fit where it was supposed to go. This was my first time screwing with a 2014+ truck too, it's amazing how much of a downgrade the 2014+ trucks are. Like the huge grille that is always in the way, and is a pain to remove from the truck. But I digress...



I did become smart about removing the fuel tank, which paid dividends later. I unbolted the tank on jack stands then lifted the truck straight up. No fucking with floor jacks this time, which on the 38gal tank would've been a real pain!





I was hoping the fuel pump I ordered for the other truck would've shown up in time and I would've installed that in this truck, for the $189 more it's worth it to prematurely upgrade the pump so the tank never gets dropped again. Upgrading injectors later isn't bad and anyone can do it, upgrading the pump is a cluster the best of times. But the pump didn't show up, so in goes the Magnuson pump.



And to skip ahead a little, I fucked up and didn't realize this little plastic piece is supposed to be reused which seems to seat the O-ring sealing the pump. I went to start the truck and no fuel pressure, but I had fuel flowing just nothing coming out the return line. This little fucker made all the difference so I got to drop the tank again to put that in.



Here's a nice photo of the Magnuson in. Since this dude seemed to be on a budget, I said fuck it and gave him a 76mm pulley at cost and told him I'd tune his truck for free (which in reality he actually got all this shit totally for free and then some since I'm a moron and charged way too little). You can see I have started fucking with the wiring here. I ended up cutting out about 18" of wiring from the Magnuson intercooler harness. Their harness is absolutely AWFUL. Maybe they use their harness for other vehicles, because it's so insanely long it's a joke. It also uses the corrugated plastic sheathing which I HATE, it's so ugly and a pain to work with. I can go on about the harness, but I cut all the excess out, used fabric braid, reoriented the wiring so the ignition tie in wasn't so ugly, etc.



I also threw one of the Amazon cheap catch cans on it. I made a custom bracket that bolts to the driver's valve cover. It's pretty slick, though it did take me three attempts to get it into a nice spot. The hoses are short, the bracket is sturdy and easy to access, and the catch can bottom is very easy to unscrew to empty it.



I ended up doing some other shit to this truck that frankly I shouldn't have done. The skid plate didn't have all the mounting hardware so I made some custom parts to bolt it in properly. Dude also had some TRD Pro shocks he wanted installed so I pulled all the shocks and reinstalled all of that. Like I said, I should've charged WAY more than I did. I need to make it crystal clear in the future, that if I give an estimate there's two options: I either stop working when I hit that price (ie finish the task at hand, and don't start anything more like the suspension and catch can work), or I can ignore the estimate and for all you know I'll charge twice as much. I always get myself into this pickle where I try to be nice and I guess feel embarrassed to tell someone it costs $1000 more than I estimated, and then I don't want to work on anyone's stuff again. The next truck in the que (same guy as the previous truck I did) essentially gives me a blank check and says make this as good as possible, which is awesome. But when people seem tight on cash it's hard to tell them the bill should be 30% higher---but don't worry, your wiring harness doesn't look like absolute ass even though no one will ever notice!

Oh and to add injury to insult, after the test drive it seems like one of the intercooler hoses going into the blower is leaking? Or maybe even the brick on the front of the blower where the hoses go in? Coolant had been sprayed out around that area and soaked the hood, but it wouldn't do it normally running. Still TBD if it's a real issue or just coolant I spilled ejecting itself somewhere. It didn't seem to be from the engine coolant which is good. Hopefully it has fixed itself, dude said it drove fine back to Salt Lake City. But that'd be just my luck, one of the stupid hoses or the blower itself leaking coolant out of the box. /end post and rant

 

I had the same thoughts about the seals and gaskets and having to cut up stock hoses instead of them just giving you new hoses in the kit. Cheap bastards

 

The latest update from Frank's Speed Shop . . . Frank because he tells it like it is!

This is great and always awesome to read. It's appreciated that you take the time to get pictures and write out details of your critiques, the good and the bad. Helping out the masses.

 

I made sure that I had new intake seals on hand for my 1900-2650 transition, but on the original install of the 1900, I reused the factory ones. I actually thought that it was kind of clever the way that some of the hoses could be reused. Fwiw, the same was the case for the 1900-2650 transition. I certainly see the point of having all new items for sure though, especially if the vehicle has some time/miles on it; it would also alleviate the potential issue of leaks (air and coolant). This would be a time saver if you were in a place where it takes days to get even the most common of parts (my frustration) had you discovered that something didn't look up to snuff mid install.

 

On behalf of all of us poors out there, thank you for your charitable spirit. On another note, who is SC'ed and ballin' on a budget? Or is it because they're SC'ed?

If one can't play after one pays because one has to keep payin' maybe that decision wasn't so wise (just my 2 pesos). You're the guy down the street I'd want working on my stuff but I'd pay you adequately for your time. I would think if the customer sees a price that is too good to be true, they'd at least drop a generous tip in the jar or offer you more on top of the estimate.

 

People are often pushing the boundaries on what they want versus what they need. It's the American Way. Why walk went you can drive?

 

Doesn't help when you have predators like @reywcms & @ToyoMafia putting guns to our heads to force us into buying stuff