Un-SOLVED!

They can get it close but part #681510C020 for anyone that cares. Original price $192, found a discount for $135 so far...Jesus.

 

Told you so

 

Two words. Junk. Yard.

 

Yeah yeah, I know but dammit if I get a new one that last another 17 years or so it's like fuck if I get a used one and it does the same thing after a bit...found 1 on eBay from a Sequoia see if they bite on my offer

 

Boom! FIDDY- spot. OEM. Will update when installed.

 

Still fucking with this whole thing....I thought what fixed it, just ended up being part of the problem. Bought a damn OEM regulator and motor off ebay for like 50 bucks. Exactly the same. Zero faith in RA thinking about buying a brand new OEM motor as I have 2 oem regs now and the aisin one from RA that rattles, one of them has to NOT be part of the problem lol. Right?
Every after market motor I see comes with the wrong connector is reason for just biting the bullet and going OEM at a premium

 

I'd check and see if there are other things going on like if you're getting the correct voltage or if your door is bent.

 

Ok. I've thought about the door being askew but I'd think it'd be fairly obvious visually? Nothing looks obvious. Maybe the track down in the door? Which will be probably a trial and error type check thing. I'll see what I can find out.

 

Window motor finally gave me the final F-U while trying to troubleshoot today. Wouldn't go back up, smacked the door. Nada...shut'er down for a bit and got enough magic left to go back up. Bit the bullet and ordered an OEM motor. If figure @18 years 23 bucks a year is Worth it to put back in to Ol' silver nuts. Dear Lord baby Heyzues let this be it!

 

If that's it, it'll be [yet another] screaming testimony to buying OEM.

 

Yeah, a couple could've been the problems that likely just slowed it down some more making me think I could get away without buying the motor at that price. Oh well. Lesson learned hopefully

 

Sad part is, if it *is* the motor, the fact Toyota is phasing out a lot of parts for our trucks right now will suck a fat one that much more.

 

Apparently it's not the motor because the new one doesn't change shit. I'm at a loss at this point..couple videos coming to see if it helps anyone help me.

Just wanna add this, after putting everything back together the new motor will also stop while going up now and on occasion going down which never happened before until the other day when I was fairly confident it was the motor just being weak and old.

I've seen things about the spring needing tensioned after being released/unhooked but I've never unhooked it from any of the regulators I've tried and haven't found anything in the fsm on how to set the tension. All I can find is that it's fully wound at the bottom of travel and at the top should be at its least tension which makes sense

 

https://youtu.be/r67RzWBmS10?si=XvpyIic7LQp12_QD

https://youtu.be/SHs42TycTGc?si=Wjg3ftZU32FA7Pfh

 

It almost seems like the window is getting hung on something. Riddle me this. There’s a seal that goes up and around the door frame upper. If you pull that out, so the window has nothing to slide on, i.e. no friction on the upper half, does it still choke?

if yes, I know this is a long shot, but do you have a junkyard where you can source a window control panel? I swore @empty_lord said something about a safety kill in the switch on the auto up/down windows, like if the motor put out too much resistance or something, the switch will kick off. But I maybe misread and it may’ve been beergoggle memory.

 

I am about to pull all the upper rubber channel shit after messing with the spring to get the most tension on it when the regulator is collapsed. I'll update.
What would said window control panel have to do with this if it hasn't always stopped but always been slow?

 

If power is routed thru the switch, and the switch was defective, not allowing power thru at 100%, or tripping due to excess resistance (as it would if an arm or hand or finger was in it, or it was finished auto-rolling), maybe? I’m spitballing at this point, it’s just a wild ass thought.

 

Gotcha! I'm gonna pull everything AGAIN lol and clean/inspect troubleshoot etc. and see what I can figure out. I'll add this to the list, maybe it's just bad connections at the switch.

 

Just for shits n giggles, maybe an easy test. Got a 12v battery, like what comes in battery backups, alarm panels, motorcycles, etc?

If so, you can try feeding the motor 12v directly. If it beasts its way up rapidly, your issue is upstream, in the wiring/switches, etc.

 

Pulled the switch apart along with taking out the window channel run. Window goes up much faster without slowing with the run out with glass in. Switches look fantastic no corrosion. Looking for pin out atm.
Back to normal suckage with run back in place.

This might be a shot.in the dark but as we pull the door shut over the years I half wonder if the metal has slowly pulled away from where it originally was causing binding when the glass is reinstalled. When I put each of the 2 factory regulators in I've gotta put some pressure on them to get the 2nd screen from the latch side in...
Lincoln is literally over this window regulator shit too.

 

Try spraying some silicone lube in the track, even better is the silicone lube with teflon.

The window may just be sticking on the rubber of the window run that has had its surface costing worn away.

 

I've done this in the past the blaster silicone spray.seemed to do.vwry little from what I can remember, less than the slyglide stuff from napa. However prior to you suggesting it I researched some and found this 3 in 1 RV spray and I believe it has Teflon in it. It seems to have helped in conjunction with recleaning the runs, putting in a regulator that's not slightly tweaked , cleaning and lubricating it the regulator, a new motor and the spray. I hope it all is more than temporary. I'll update maybe after a couple months or something.
The window is maybe a second shower than the passenger.

 

After what feels like a fucking eternity this is actually solved. Unfortunately I don't know exactly what did the magic trick but I did order a brand new window run from Toyota and installed it today. After putting the glass back in the window when the new window run was in and testing the window, it's still seemed as slow as as it was with all of the other things that I've tried. What I did notice when looking to see what the hell could be the problem. When I had put the glass back in it was not in between the two pieces of rubber by the door hinge side. It was in between the metal guide and the rubber. When I remove the window again and put it in between the rubber it now is the same speed as the passenger window. I do not believe that as many times as I've had this window in and out trying to fix this that it was like that the entire time , every time but I could be wrong. If you have slow windows and anybody has ever been in there or you have, check to make sure window is in between /sandwich by the rubber and not between the rubber and the actual window guide, this could very well be your cause for slow windows. Don't open the parts Cannon like I did LOL.