What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

This wait may kill me.



Hopefully by noon-1ish its cured enough to handle.

 

WOW @JakeJake you probably got a ton of eager users on here watching your every move now. Such an interesting, good looking build you got there! Excited for ya

 

Top scratched off number is the Toyota Part number. The other scratched off number is not a number, it was the "TOYOTA" designation.

When you buy authentic Denso coils, you'll find the same milling, where they scratch off the TOYOTA logo. Can't have the customer knowing you're getting OEM parts for a fraction of the cost!

This is a distant shot on mine from a while ago but note the arrow pointing at Toyota where your 2nd scratch is. Just below that, "HITACHI".

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Drove mine again with the new exhaust. Really like it. Some mild drone, but the side exit helps a lot with that I imagine. Sounds so good. A little mellower than the flow master 50 was. Nice tone.

 

Designed and manufactured an A-Pillar grab handle mount for an 8 Gang Auxbeam switch panel.

 

Really like that idea! I just got a scan gauge and want to mount it in a similar spot. How do you get access under the grab handle?

 

Ole Mecklenburg (OMB) is about all ya'll got

 

Only on fried chicken. I make my own pulled pork sauce

 

from what i've read, i can hold him hostage and force him to build me truck parts. Polo's like 3 dales, and i can cook bacon.

 

https://optoffroad.com/products/00-20-tundra-scangauge-mount

Easy

 

Took the bed rack off (for now?). Realizing it might be overkill for what I need it to do… lol.

@The Black Mamba here it is. I offered first right of refusal to you.

 

Check with @Mohoman. I think he spoke for it next.

 

@Mohoman pm me if you want it.

 

Of course the two rear cam sleeve are seize . Question for you all. I’m pricing all new oem hardware now just a little over $200 or should I get cam eliminators.

 

I got one that was used for a month before I went cam eliminator. I do have a full set still that could use a clean up before reusing. You pay for shipping they're all yours. I'll let you have first dibs, but if anyone else is in need offer stands.


EDIT - let me see if my wife threw them away first

 

I’m curious what made you change from oem to cam eliminator. How is the daily driving and what brand?

 

You can pop the little covers off and take the torx bolts out. The whole pillar trim just pops out if you pry from the top with a plastic trim tool.

 

Today after work I'm swapping out the dog shit squirt gun stock windshield fluid squirters to one's that actually shoot a mist so I got that going for me which is nice.

 

Awesome, thanks man! Building one of those today!

 

Because I run my truck really hard in the dirt. I've lost alignments before. This is just cheap insurance. You lock in camber and caster so all you adjust is toe.

Yeah this was one of the items she threw away. She recognized the box I told her it was in.

 

Womp womp. Don't let the wife raid the parts stash!

Anyways, The factory hardware is supposed to be tightened quite a bit, more than I think most people realize. Over 100 Ftlbs if I remember correctly. My local firestone screwed me a while back after they only snugged them up, it sounded like someone was shooting at me when they would shift as I drove down the road.

 

I normally have it all separated. Might have been too close to the old junk I was getting rid of. lol

 

The northerners will get all twisted in the britches over perfectly good alignment hardware thrown away since they have to periodically rebuy it from corrosion.

 

You can in fact install the drivers side axle in the passenger side and vice versa. It does make things complicated when connecting the parking brake cable. And don't worry about that thing where one is longer than the other.I've been through this axle so many times that was only a 30 minute delay to swap sides and re torque.

Tomorrow: shock mounts upper/lower, bleed brakes, fill diff, smokey burnout?

 

Greased all but one of my zerks today, trying to use up the stuff I have left before switching to the 3% moly palladium grease for my SPC Uca. Saw this on passenger side when I was greasing the sway bar link. It looks like a chuck just broke off compared to the other side

 

Cheapo lower ball joint? OEM doesn't do that or at least not that I've seen.

 

NOTHING TO SEE HERE