What have you done to your 2.5 gen Tundra today?

To those owning a gen 2 NSV bulge lightbar that was re-wired to defeat the strobe: the greatest discovery was made...I was swapping out my bulge for one that did have broken tabs...I added some more strength with JB Weld on the tabs that are known to break when anything breaks on the bulge...I figured I might as well try the pin #8 to empty pin #3 I've been wanting to do for years...definitely a tricky depinning but, the video (https://www.tundras.com/threads/nsv-light-bar-question.59292/#post-1704354) works for this; I now have the strobe feature in-lieu of the boring "DRL" look ...I feel like drinking now!! Cheers!!

 

Geez. Last time I bought one was admittedly almost 20yrs ago and it was $80.

 

Yeah, I honestly didn't expect that to happen.

Oh well, the wife and I are at Hole-in-the-Wall BBQ in Springfield, OR after dropping some coin at Lithia Toyota.

 

I've been rebuilding Toyota trucks for years. When the air bag blows, it often trashed the clock spring.

I've bought OEM and I've bought eBay versions. I can't tell the difference. I'm sure they come from the same factory.

I'd spend the $55 and get one coning from eBay.

 

Reinstalled undercarriage armor after removing it for the gear and locker install. I have a Warn VR EVO winch, and if anyone else has one they know the wireless control can eventually shit the bed; Warn has a recall notice and will replace it, but I just decided to install their Hub Bluetooth control. Works pretty good. Also added a little “bling” while I had everything torn apart…

 

Did my first oil change after breaking up with the stealership (who charged $130 for the last change, $60 of which was labor), not too bad. Installed a

$38 fumoto F133N with LC-10 f-series large body FUMOTO® valve with long nipple and LC-10 lever clip for M12-1.25

fumoto F133N so it will be a lot less messy next time. I put in 8.5 quarts but it was reading high on the dip stick so I pulled about 20oz out and was really glad I had the fumoto on there for that.

Also used the motivx tool for the filter housing (which was super hard to remove due the the dealership over tightening) and for draining the filter. Truck is stock right now so it was a little tight under there so I'll probably build some wood rams before my next change at 50k miles.

 

I have a new OEM because I can't wait to have one shipped.

 

Very tight under there

Usually drive it up on blocks, but once decided to go without.

 

No kidding! After driving it for 5 miles and then checking the oil level I about melted my face off putting the skid plate back on and draining half a quart out of it.

 

I will say that the upgrade looks really nice, and I hope you get it resolved quickly w/o too much cost/issue

I love making things my own and adding a twist to the original design, but it always feels like I'm the guy who's gonna damage more shit than I improve...

Is it possible if you were to rent or use a puller that you could possibly hit a pick n pull or other wrecking yard and grab that part for a lot cheaper???

 

I may have missed it, but what did you end up with??? If I remember you were talking 5.29s w/locker, right???

 

Yes. Finished the break-in and gave it a little juice yesterday…

 

I could have gotten one from a clock spring specialist company in CT for $160 or so. I have a puller now (Harbor Freight, $18). Seems the 2019 Tundras OEM part has that sensor on the back that all the videos tell you to swap from the old to the new.
It is something that might be available from a pick/pull place, but doubtful it would be intact if the airbag deployed. I don't know how I would manage to keep it intact/centered on removal.

 

I drove it out to Flagstaff to OVRLND campers to get my new camper.

 

Went for a rip at my test loop

 

Looks great!! It's all starting to come together nicely!

 

Thanks man, I love it. The camper is super boxy compared to the old AT, but the space and sleeping area is awesome. I parked it next to @Jonnynewton909 with his Atlas to compare the profile and it's wild looking.

 

Awesome...

Once I move to larger tires, this is the direction I'll be going as well. Glad you're enjoying it!!!

 

Makes sense; plus I posted my question before scrolling down and reading your other post. Sounds like you guys made the most of it. Nothing wrong w/a short road trip and little BBQ to soften the unexpected expense

 

So awesome

 

Took the Century/LEER fiberglass tonneau off the truck last night after fixing the airbag clock spring.

Installed the Lomax Stance by Agricover today.

 

Looks great! Head room when opened up? 6’ish?

 

It's about 6' 8" or so.

 

Changed the oil.
Going to run 5-30 in it for a cycle just for giggles.

 

I got mine ceramic tinted late last week, picked it up Friday afternoon. 30% over rear doors and rear window, 15% on front two doors, and 55% on the windshield. I don't know how people can drive around with no tint on any windows, it's like a fishbowl! Granted, my eyesight is still quite good, so the darker windows don't bother me at night. But the heat block alone is worth it to me in the summer here in Alabama.

Also installed a set of Amazon auto up/down window switches this afternoon on all 4 doors, but the tint needs to cure for a couple more days before I can try them out. The safety stop/reverse is not a concern for me, but I'm aware the aftermarket switches don't have that function. Glad someone made the awareness post about it.

 

If you get a chance and don't mind posting it, I'd like to see the inside of that beast...

 

I'll definitely be posting some pictures as we finish the interior out.

 

I was driving Bayshore blvd in Tampa the other day. My cruising speed was around 35 mph. My avr. MPG showed around 20 mpg. Is it possible? Or some kind of mistake?

 

It's easily doable, just not sustainable.

Low rpms, flat ground, no wind resistance equals good mpg. Just no one has those conditions for very long.

 

If I keep mine at 55 of lower and stay off the skinny pedal I can do 20 average. But that is not real life.