What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

No joke I just posted it on FB yesterday afternoon, not in marketplace just my personal page. Friend of a friend saw it and came out at 9 this morning, didn't even drive it just looked it over and said I'll take it.

 

Damn. This one I had to hammer the LBJ off the knuckle to defeat nature’s loctite.

 

Fin. Just need to find the right size cotter pins. The ones included are more for tie rod ends.

 

Steel braiding wire will work as well. 0.06 or 0.07 dia will work. I would recommend doing a double loop with it tho.

 

Got the offending link off. However, I’m still unable to get my knob off.

I hate to ask, but suggestions? May try some heat later in the week.

 

Can't get your knob off you say ...... Sounds like a marital issue bro

 

Clamp some vise grips on it, hit it with some heat, and it should come off.

 

Well, for one, get a fucking cotter pin in that TRE for crying out loud!

If it's spinning, I'd grind a flatspot into the ball, then wedge something between the LCA and flatspot to hold it in place.

But before that, I'd probably take I'd probably take a cold chisel to that split at the base of the ball and give a few targeted whacks with a BFH to snap the ball end off.

 

Thanks. I’m getting new tie rod end nuts this week to replace the rusted ones.

 

I just bought my truck last week. This site has been fantastic. I decided to do the timing belt because I didn’t know if it had been done recently. It looks like I made the right choice. LBJs are next.

 

Firstly welcome, secondly good job, thridly let the fuckery begin

Are next...... Are... Not is

Yes I know

 

Also look into cleaning your throttle body, PCV 90 and hose out as well. It'll help with idle rpm and MPGs

 

“…are next.”
Krect.

 

Decided to fuck around with my AI gen app. Prompted it to show me my truck with an LTS and high clearance bumpers..... Can't say it did me bad

 

Roll 1


Roll 2

 

Finally got around to installing my new (used) leaf springs (thanks @shifty` ). First I had to remove my aftermarket hitch which conveniently blocked access to the spring and shackle mounting bolts. Then I started on the starboard side, which I knew was going to be a problem. The rear hanger had severe rust, and had to be replaced (I still have no idea how it got so rusty...the frame around it was fine, and there are no holes in the bed above it to leak water down). After I got the spring and shackle off I was able to expose the 4 rivets holding the hanger on. All I had to do was to grind off the rivet heads, pop them out the other side, and the install the new hanger.



Sounds easy...but it was not. There was barely enough room for my hands and the grinder. The truck was high enough off the ground that I couldn't lie down to work, but not quite high enough to sit comfortably and grind. But I motored through it, and finally ground away all 4 rivets, holding the grinder with one hand while leaning on my other elbow. Now all I had to do was just knock them through the other side with a hammer and punch...wrong! Same problem, not enough room to swing a hammer, and awkward angles and visibility. I'll just drill them out...also wrong! Finally I gave up, got my compressor, dug up my air hammer and a proper punch, and coaxed the stubborn fuckers out one at a time.

The new hanger is a bolt on, so it was short work to get it on.



After 7 hours I'd had enough fun, and left the port side for tomorrow. I expected this to be a multi-day project, and it will indeed be. These are the challenges of dealing with a rusty truck...what should be a few hour job turns out to be a few days. To be continued...

 

I had to saw mine off (from the other side). Diablo carbide sawzall blades for the win!

 

Nice! Just like with adding extra legs to animals, it added an extra tire. I won't claim to understand how AI image generation works but that seems to be something it has trouble with. Appendages. Mostly the correct number.

 

Hack hack. Chop chop

The FINALE' in the build thread.

 

What I NEED to do to my truck today: drill some holes in the bed so it can drain. I’m guessing PO got it Rhinolined when he put the cap on:

 

I got down to business and replaced rear brake shoes and hardware, along with rear brake cylinders. While I was at it I decided to paint the drums black. The rusty orange and black wasn’t doing it for me.
All went smoothly so I moved on to the steering rack. Replaced the rack along with new total chaos bushings, and steering shaft seal while I was in there.
Fuck the steering shaft, its seal, and its whole existence. definitely the hardest and most difficult part of the whole day.
I called it a day after getting that done.

Tomorrow I’ll bleed the brakes, replace TREs and hopefully knock out the rear leaf springs. Then I’ll be able to adjust my front coil over height to level the truck and get it ready for alignment on Tuesday.

 

Are there not plugs here?

 

Yeah, Mapp gas, and make it glow red hot. If it's almost liquid, it can't be tight.

 

Yes, I can see them from below, but homie sprayed right over them.

 

Can you look underneath the bed to see where the drain plugs are located? May be an easy fix to just cut through that since the plugs are plastic.

 

Where can you buy proper mapp gas? That stuff was phased out years ago. What they call mapp gas today is only 10-15% hotter than propane.

 

Well, that's news to me. Not sure then Jack

 

They have the portable oxy-acetylene kits at home depot for $400. I don’t have a big enough job to warrant buying it though.

 

Anyone ever tried this?

$216 Solary Flameless Heat Induction Tool, 1000W 110V Magnetic Induction Heater Kit with 8 Coils, Handheld Rusty Screw Removing Tool

https://www.amazon.com/Solary-Flame...ef144fd3521136e4809c7aec32f716de&gad_source=1

 

Yeah we had these in the Navy. They're like a 50 50. When they work they work so so well. When they don't you just get a hot ass sheared bolt