What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Attaboy

 

I am going to un-install my front diff drop as I don't have terrible angle anyway and I would like the clearance back. Anyone have the part number for the OEM bolts that get replaced by the diff drop kits? This Toyota diagram is showing bolt 90080-11420, but the bolt pictured looks nothing like the bolt that holds the front diff up. Or, if anyone wants to mail me your stock bolts I will send you my drop kit for free! haha

 

(B)AAL springs got the rust-be-gone treatment. Top half will get the same.

 

Double cut burr grinder does wonders on the flaky stuff. More effective than a wire wheel and less destructive than a grinding disc. And, so much easier to get in the tight spots than either. All equally messy though.

 

I could get a measurement of mine and thread pitch probably when I'm home if that would do you any good (if I can remember). I'd like to hang on to mine though as I honestly don't know that I need to keep my diff drop on either

 

More parts in transit. Hoping @OverSquareEng is still alive, but I'm feeling guilty with these SS3 pods just sitting on the closet shelf, so I'm throwing money at these pods from Foxbeam...

I need to sell some more shit. Poppa didn't have enough money in the bank to buy these damn things until I can deal with Honda CRV part returns.

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Interesting comparison on spark plugs.

Below are the plugs of unknown mileage I pulled from my Tundra after a year and couple months of ownership back in 2018. They are the standard nickel NGK v power plugs. Looks like one of them had been replaced already before I bought the truck but it was pretty amazing how well the truck ran with these massive gaps and *barely there* electrodes.



I wanted to replace them and forget about them, so I ordered some NGK iridium plugs thinking I was covered for 100K miles. Fast forward to a 2024, I was looking back at my maintenance logs and decided to check the specs on those plugs, then realizing I bought the cheaper iridiums that are only rated for 50K miles. Well I had already put 70K miles on these plugs so I decided to replace them this week with the 100K mile iridiums that use a platinum ground disc. Here are the plugs that I pulled that were 20K+ miles overdue for replacement.



Honestly they look pretty fantastic and I probably could've kept running them to 100K .

 

Not quite how it it looked in my head, but I'm really digging it. It'll still see some changes as I continue to flesh things out and dial in the details.

 

Yes, that's the right part number. Just went through my receipts because I've ordered some.

2x 90080-11420 Bolt with Washer
2x 90179-14063 Nut

 

This is so so hot

Best becareful Jake those sleepy time pee pee touchers will come get ya and then ask for 10 bucks...... @bmf4069

 

I fucking knew this would look sick

 

I didn't think iridium were necessary unless you had forced induction or VVTI.
I use iridium on my 06 and copper in my 03.

 

What's that little artsy thingy on the back?
License plate holder?

 

Artsy

It is a plate holder. I cut the file I had from when I built the front plate holder, although I think I assembled it upside down from how the front is setup? I dunno. Im sure that particular shape served some purpose then. Just a temporary Jonnie until I decide where its lives.

I did cut the harness today and ditch the oem plate lights. RIP. Threw together this quickie single led setup, complete with Bed liner blackout and zip ties instead of finding the tap I needed.

 

Do you know how to that?
I know it was as simple as pulling a relay and making a jumper from a few inches of wire and two crimp blades, on the first gen tacos.
I'd love to have power to the outlets to charge stuff when camping, even though the truck is off.

I figure there ought to be a similar way to do the fog lights anytime mod.

 

IIRC the two power outlets on my 2000 have a relay under the hood and you can jump that for continuous power. The cig lighter does not have a relay only a fuse under the dash.

 

I need to figure out which slots to jump then.

 

So I ugh ummmm bought a thing........ Who's gonna be helping cause I'm not gonna lie I ain't never put one of these in. But I'm willing to learn

 

I'm also down to learn. I bet Casey knows how.

 

Probably would have been better off buying a completely built out unit from ECGS if you don't know what you're doing, or do not have an installer. But that's just my opinion.

 

I'll bet you Lee knows..... And I bet we all know by the bottom of a 30 rack

 

That’s the spirit. You don’t know till you know. I’ve never messed with rear gears either, but I’d definitely study up and get someone to help me and take a whack at it.

 

I know two guys in his area that could install it, but ones retired from wrenching on other people's stuff and just does tunes now (Triple C Chop Shop). The other is 4Lo Fab. I wheel with both those guys. Good dudes.

 

I plan to learn to rebuild my original diff eventually just to learn, and so I have a spare with matching ratios, but I'm happy with Zuk's attention to detail on my built locker. With my use case, I would have hated to break down in the middle of the desert due to me screwing the initial gear setup.

Plus Zuk documents every diff he builds, so his documentation will helpful when I do try to work through it.

 

Not many people have a blue printed diff

 

Rain put the rust work on hold so I completed the 2wd conversion.

 

Thank you! I figured either I was reading their diagram wrong or they just put the wrong picture for the bolt. I appreciate you confirming.

 

My 2001 crossed the equator today.

 

Mounted my ScanGauge II to the A-Piller as the mounting solution I had before turned into goo on the window. To that end I ordered a custom window shade to help with the heat inside the cab. A touch expensive, but fits really well: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0045NZP5I?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details