Getting to Level on Bilstein 6112's for Access Cabs

Lower shock bolt for 2000 AC V8 4WD is 90080-10124. Nut is 90170-14026. Local dealership should have both. Call and ask, I wouldn't be surprised this is something one of the local stealerships carries.

 

@BluegrapeVr6 Sorry wrong part number, that was for rear shocks I guess.

Just called both my dealerships and both are special order, so I’m SOOL, unless I hunt one down at a scrap yard or see if my friend still has his junkyard Tundra I can pull parts from

 

Going to pick up a thread file just to see if I can get it seated in the meantime, then replacing the bolts and nuts. All ordered!

If the thread file doesn’t work then gotta figure something else out!

 

You should be able to clean that up pretty easy and get the nut seated fine. But if it were me... Ace hardware. If you have a caliper (the measuring tool, not brake part), measure the shank and the how long the shoulder (unthreaded part) and bolt length to find something suitable. Or just pull out and carry the bolt with you. You should be able to find something in grade 8 hardware that matches in 5-10 minutes of pulling bins. Their fastener section, I find, is typically superior to the orange or blue big box stores. Get a matching washer and nut.

 

So I found the bolt at Ace, but not the nut, and now for some reason the nut is stripped internally so I’m pretty much back at square one

I might drive down to another Ace that’s a little ways away and see if they have the nut for it

 

Temporary solution, even though it’ll probably hold forever I already spent the $30 on two nuts and bolts for OEM

 

Yeah, you really want to use a serrated flange nut for that, they're self-locking. If you have a tap and die set, you may try running a tap thru the OEM nut. If not, this is a great excuse to buy a kit.

At minimum, throw a washer on it, and maybe include a lockwasher to boot.

What's a serrated flange nut? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flange_nut#Serrated_flange_nut

 

To take guesswork out of it, go shifty's route or call these guys and tell they what your douing. They can give you all your options
https://www.fastenal.com/product/Fa...Bolts?productFamilyId=25783&categoryId=600018

Its who i use for random specialty harware for heavy applications

 

For now it’s good enough just to see the ride height and take it to the alignment tech, and hopefully the part rolls in before I even take it to the shop.

I have an extra car, so I won’t be driving her full time until I get the proper OEM parts. Should be on Thursday or Friday I get them hopefully.

 

I’ll pick up a kit though once I figure out what’s level!

 

Looks like you were right @shifty` ! 6/4 seems to be the right setting for level on an access cab with 6112’s.



Measurements say the front is a little under an inch above the rear, but I think this might be the most level it will get. Moving it a clip lower will probably bring it to a rake, but I’m open to moving it down to 5/3 if everyone is at the consensus to drop it some more

 

the less clip you use the more the shock can fully cycle and will give you a better ride overall

 

I've moved the circlip on my 5100s, it wasn't an issue at all. i don't see how you could mess it up unless you're a different kind of special... maybe i misunderstood you though

 

Please do the community a favor and share that info back to Josh. I know a lot of people shop with him, and he's generally a straight-up dude that cares. I legitimately believe Bilstein has an error in their documentation, like I said before. It makes zero sense how AC would get less lift with same settings as DC, it truly defies all logic.

That said, front is higher by about 1", yep. You're sitting right about where I was sitting on my ToyTecs and stock springs, no rear lift over here. Give it a few days to settle. I think you'll find you may come down another 1/4" - 1/2" in the next couple days. But if you're wondering, yes, Wheelers AAL should set you right, or ATS HD or the Husky springs @KNABORES mentioned will do you right on height. I will warn you though, the new leaf packs are STIFF AS FUUUUUUUUU

Given your experience, I think I may end up running 5/3 if I drop in my 6112s. We shall see.

Two things.

One, expect your truck to feel about 2" taller off the ground when you get the new tires.

Two, you should be right about where I am here when you're done, measure-wise, with either AAL or new leaf packs.

GOOD WORK!

 

Solely speaking about the process of unclipping and reclipping. Nothing more, nothing less. Sometmes tension clips like that circlip can be a PITFA to pop off and on, even with the proper tools.

 

Based on your experience, it looks like Bilstein's chart should look more like this for V8/4WD 1st gens. I'm only posting this here so I can link it up in the Megathread. Thanks again for being the Guinea Pig!

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Happy I could make a meaningful addition to the community lol. My blunder is everyone after me's gain! I changed the name of this thread be more suitable for those searching on Google too.

I'll message Josh and link him this thread, along with also getting a tap and die set to fix the locking nut since I don't think the OEM parts are going to come in on time. I gotta make sure its safe to drive to Gainesville on Saturday!

 

yeah mine was no problem to move, but i bet if you had heavy corrosion it might be an issue. there isn't much to grab on to with pliers

 

You are the master of the ever-changing thread title.

 

I like to keep you on your toes

 

Absolutely rednecked it for the time being. Regular nut torqued as much as I could when a wrench and a locking nut impacted on.

Parts are coming in on Friday so this is a very very very temporary fix. Drove on it for two days without any signs of play.

my handling is crap because of my bad alignment from replacing the inner and outer tie rods a couple of weeks ago, along with the lift, but, tomorrow is wheels and alignment day

Also got a nice message back from Josh:


I’ll make sure to update this post tomorrow to standardize my measurements again, in next couple of weeks when suspension settles, and when I get a rear suspension upgrade whether it be an AAL or Airbags.

 

I'd also be interested to hear, once aligned out, if you feel the ride is less-harsh having dropped two circlips down, down to a point Bilstein "officially" supports (even if their measurements are off in the grid). I've always heard people who ramp up into settings Bilstein doesn't support with the 5100s that the ride is harsh af, and I expect it may've been the case for you too.

 

I can tell you already that it feels a lot more plush than it did at 8/6. I took it down a road with a lot of speed bumps and it’s really soft on the big stuff when you get to speed. Small stuff slow it’s pretty harsh, but that’s also a Bilstein thing and new springs thing I presume

 

I could use some guidance. Bought some BFG KO3's yesterday. Either they don't make them in the stock size (265/70R16) yet or didn't have them in stock so I got the 265/75R16's. I had some 6112's and new 650lb 15.6" springs I was waiting to put on. Costco wouldn't install them if they rubbed any and luckily they didn't. Got home and started reading the instructions - looking at my 6112 and springs etc - then wen't out to the truck and noticed the previous owner installed spacers (about 1.25" ??) I was hoping to get that extra 1" to level it out better with the 6112's (not knowing about the spacers) Do you think I should have the spacers reinstalled with the 6112's in the 6th/4th clip OR will the new springs and 6112's do the trick? For sure don't want it to be lower than it is now in the front scared it will rub if any lower. Any thoughts greatly appreciated, thanks all.

 

Are you 4WD or 2WD? If 4WD, you'd have the same setup that i would have and I'd recommend putting it at 6/4 WITHOUT the spacer, you'll get to level from there and get a smoother ride out of your truck overall. 650lb springs is what's on my truck. If you put it at 6/4 with the spacer you'll be squatting some, if the spacer is ~1.25inches it'll be at a ~1.25 inch squat.

If you wanted to do the spacer, you could try 5/3, but results may vary.

 

Never mix lifted struts/coil overs with spacers dude. Period. There may be corner cases where it serves a purpose, but as a rule of thumb, if you don’t know when it’s appropriate or not, or why you shouldn’t do it for geometry reasons, then don’t do it. The beauty of their kit is, if you set it at 6/4 and don’t like it, move to 5/7 and you’ll get an extra 1/2 - 3/4”. It’s better to err on the side of caution when it comes to adjustable suspension.

Get that puck outta there. You’re gonna damage something if you leave it in. May not happen immediately, but it’ll happen.

 

Thanks for the quick replies from you and shifty. Yes its the 4x4. Thats what I was hoping to hear. My concern with going 5/7 is the instruction manual says not to go over 4/6 to lift 1" for the access cab 4x4. I will take off the puck. Appreciate the help, Thanks!!

 

I mean Billy tells you not to go above 4th notch with OEM springs on access cabs but @KNABORES haa been doing it for more than a decade without issue. It may be a CYOA for them. I usually follow manufacturer reco though.