2017 Tundra SR5 Sound system upgrade (proposed)

you should have channel 1 n 2 as yr inputs and 1,2 n 3 as yr inputs. Being channel 3 yr sub. You did move the interior Auto Mode switch, right? You should be all good now. Post some pics of our good job!!! Lol

 

a disasterpiece haha! Once again I really appreciate your help! Auto mode is moved 100%…. You said it can all be adjusted by the LOC… so do I need to adjust the gain and filters on the amp first? And you said remove the RCA’s it’s a must…. Which ones & why?

 

To set the gains on the LC7 remove the rca on the output. 3 sets.

 

the fosgate amp and sub amp…. Don’t mess with those dials at all?? Seems like something gets adjusted prior to the LC7….

attached pics before I put the seat back in.

 

Did you set the gains on the RF? It has the clipping led as well. All depends on the sleakers you have, the music you listen to and the speakers you have. The fancy way to do it is with an RTA. The easy way is with calibrating audio music and a ohmeter. Yr RF has the clip led. You can use that one.

 

The only thing I adjusted was what was suggested for the 1 channel 2ohm subs per the manual but all gains are to the thier minimums….. I don't have a meter…. I’ll have to find the rf manual.

 

I found this vid…..

https://youtu.be/B5UYKw9j33Q

 

Yes that will work. Thats the second part of one of the videos I sent you.

 

Okay 2020 Tundra Non-JBL here. I've already replaced my head unit and wanting to replace the underseat amp. All factory speakers.

So I got the Autoharness adapters, shown here hooked up to the factory wires harnesses, but which goes to which on the amp? And what about the RCA jacks? There are way more wires on the harnesses than are coming out of the Alpine Amp. Can someone tell me which colors go to which? And how do you know which purple is which, which white is which, etc?

Tried to take it to a local shop but they gave me sh*t about them having to order the parts themselves, why don't you want a sub, etc etc. So I'm stuck with just me and my no knowledge if I want this installed.

 

What are you trying to power with that amp?

 

This is the underseat amp which powers the door speakers. The picture is of the factory underseat amp with the new one and the wiring harnesses.

 

The Alpine?

 

Yes, the Alpine is replacing the factory underseat amp. That's what most of this entire thread is about. Trying to get clarity on which wires splice to which on the harnesses.

 

Is it too late to get a real amp? OEM speakers won’t handle much over stock power - they’re a joke. That Alpine amp isn’t something I’d ever recommend as it probably doesn’t put out any more power than your aftermarket HU.

 

The HU does not power the doors, the underseat amp does. I'm not looking for advice, I'm looking for instructions on how to do the wires. I've done the research and this is the best amp for what I wan.t This entire thread is about the 445U amp. This is what I'm doing. Nothing else.

 

That's 4 x 45W. You'll need more channels for front stage.

 

There is your key but it doesn’t look like that Alpine supports high level inputs.

 

Same as in post 377

The factory amp will be removed and replaced with that Alpine!

Does your amp use those RCA's as input? (not familiar with that amp)
Looks as if it does, since the RCA's are marked "IN".

All of the inputs will come from the 12 pin harness.
Follow the pic below for Inputs - Front Left, Front Right, Rear Left, Rear Right

Output - Rears are on 12 pin plug
Outout - Fronts are on the 10 pin plug

 

Thanks y'all.

 

Here’s how i did it. Sound is much improved and I followed up with an 8” powered sub under the drivers seat. Planning on replacing door speakers next. I may eventually replace the head unit (I know it will make the most difference) but I’m hoping to keep the stock unit for appearances.

 

The KTP-445U supports high level inputs.

@mestes1999 you'll need to get 2 sets of speaker wire to RCA adapters like this: JL Audio XD-CLRAIC2-SW 2-channel speaker output converter (bare speaker wires to male RCAs) at Crutchfield or 2 sets of solderless RCA male plugs like these: Amazon.com: RCA Plug Solderless, Conwork 2-Pack RCA Male Plug Screws Audio Video in-Line Jack Adapter Gold Plated : Appliances

Once you have those, you need to set your KTP-445U to 4 ch for input. I'm not sure what voltage the stock head unit is sending out pre factory amp, but I'd guess since it's pre-amp it's somewhere around 1-2 volts, and setting your input to RCA would be fine. If the voltage is higher than 2 volts coming from the head unit, you'd want to use speaker level inputs, in which case you could still do the rca method above, or you could skip them and cut the RCA females off the harness and connect your wires from your new aftermarket harness directly to your power pack harness. Here are a few screenshots from the power pack instruction manual:



As far as power goes, the power pack does 45w @ 2 or 4 ohms. The factory door speakers are 35w @ 2 ohms, so you will be overpowering them by 10 watts. Just make sure not to set your gains too high at risk of blowing them.

As far as wire colors go, see @Reddawg1100's post for the wire colors, and then I made this diagram quick with just red/black for positive/negative to illustrate the big picture:

 

Hey guys. He already replaced the head unit. He does not need high level inputs. Why not just run rca from head unit and call it a day.
The rca is the input and just tie into the wires for the front speakers.

And btw. That amp is a great little amp. I ran 2 of them in a system for a front three way.
Almost no where to put amps and they were in the glove box. One ran tweets and mids and the other bridged to the midbass.

that’s an easy set up. The colors should match up and the package should have told you which wire goes to which wire.

 

I missed that he replaced his head unit already. In that case, yeah, could run RCA wires, or if wanting to skip that step and pass signal through the factory wiring for input he could still do the RCA plugs or speaker wire adapters. RCA plugs would be the cheapest route, then RCA cables or RCA speaker wire adapters. If running new RCA’s, amp would get set to RCA. If using factory wiring for input coming from new head unit, signal would then be amplified, probably to the magnitude of ~20watts, and need to make sure the speaker level input voltage range is high enough to accept that on the power pack. I didn’t see it in the specs but i wasn’t looking closely for it.

 

Got this amp installed this weekend, thanks for the help everyone. Sounds great, doors are actually loud now, and I only have the gain turned up maybe 1/3