What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Will be ordering in the next couple weeks. Gotta get the new camper and get the 2019 sold.

 

I must have missed the post where the truck sale fell through bummer
EDIT: I think I confused that with the BIG camper, my bad.

 

Negative it's the factory ground for the head unit and 6 discharge changer that was an option for these trucks

 

I got everything installed! It only took about a year to find and buy the right truck and accumulate all the parts. Almost everything I bought was after careful consultation with this group I can’t thank all you first gen experts enough. I’m thinking about starting a build/VSC brake system support thread for future owners to reference that will have all my measurements and specs. SPC UCAs, 6112’s at c-clip 6/4, new OEM LBJs and LCAs with new OEM cam, 255/85r16 Toyo MT E-load tires at 41psi, power steering fluid flush, soon to be brake fluid flush with Bosch 5.1, replaced tailgate, LED head/fog/interior lights, greased driveshaft and extended sway bar links. The horrible grinding noise I had after installing my pad/rotors was the junkyard dust cover after all and not the break-in period noise, thanks for the tip shifty. I can’t recommend enough these EBC slotted rotors and Extra Duty + truck pads designed for large heavy tires. I brake faster and smoother than I ever did with stock P tires and oem rotor/pads. I have 5160 rear shocks on back order and still need to change the fluid in front diff, transfer case, transmission, and rear diff with a breather valve relocation. Because I have an auto LSD that isn’t a real limited slip (just automated braking) I will be looking into a selectable locker and maybe re-gear to get back to stock ratios with these 33’s. Thanks again for everyone’s advice the truck handles great and I couldn’t be happier.

I do have one more question for everyone though, the 5160 rear shocks say they require a 1-1.5” lift (is this confirmed?) but I have perfectly good leaf springs and think the rear height is fine. I was going to go with ATS hd leafs but don’t need the extra stiffness. Any suggestion on how to get the 5160’s mounted cheaply while changing the rear ride quality as little as possible? Thanks

 

For all you other tundra guys here I found this at San Antonio Wrench a Part today. It's in really good condition. Full bench in an 06 RC LB V6 work truck
If anyone wants it, lmk I'm sure we can work something out.

 

That looks really nice.

Your LBJ dust boot looks funky to me. Like the bolts aren't threaded through it. I may have missed something in the discussion leading up to your work though.

Nice looking tires. I had to run them through the tire size comparison to see what they were. 33 skinnies! Same width as my tires but a couple inches taller. I've got 255 70 16. Those look great on your truck.

 

Thanks, the LBJ dust protector really doesn’t do much. Maybe I did something wrong on install, like the LBJ bolts go inside the rubber? We also have different year LBJs. Or are you talking about my dented up hub dust cap that I just smeared sealant on because I didn’t want to buy a new one?

 

Don't worry @VR6T , he didn't take all of my wood. He might've been able to handle it all, if we had upgraded his rear. But alas, dat ass is saggy.

 

i'm gonna share. Aint no way i can use all the pecan for smoking.

 

Dirty DOT 3 fluid or fresh Bosch 5.1? First time changing fluid since owning

 

had an offer and a date and time setup for the sale. Spoke on the phone, previous Tacoma owner, loves Toyotas. Then, the Buyer vanished. It was not to be.

 

Bolts thread through the dust cover.

Yours



Mine



I agree it doesn't do much, so you're likely fine.

 

I think if you’re driving through fields with stobs sticking up or off road in the woods you could take a stick through the boot and the dust protector may or may not help deflect that. They are not very sturdy rubber, so I doubt they offer much protection. I’ve never had them before, but I put them on this time.

 

Yeah my Tacoma didn't have them and I drove a lot crazier roads with it than I'll drive with the Tundra. I did crazier roads than I'll be able to in the Tundra. Too wide, too long.

Mine already had them and they were in decent shape, so I reused them. If they had been trashed, I'm not positive I'd have replaced them.

 

Brand new 5.1 left, used unknown brake fluid right. Is it Just full of used 5.1?

 

and moisture

 

@Mr.bee needs more leaf springs

 

Pretty sure when I did mine in 21 it was the first time it had been changed since 2000. Brakes like a champ now. @455h0le_dachshund and his superior bleed methods

 

This guy over here with his boogie dust covers trying to be a Lexus or something...... Dust covers psssssh we die of LBJ failure like men on the forum sir

 

Don't give me too much credit. I don't know shit about brakes. Just how to mash em.

 

they do look nice

 

It's a 2006 thing. Our LBJ are different than yours.

Woohoo! I got something right for a change!

j/k

Looks good. 6/4 with 6112, did you take before/after measurements up front? It looks very level, I'm shocked to hear you've got stock springs.

 

Ah, I see it now. That shiny silver screw looked like light coming through a gap between the top of the dust cover and the bottom of the ball joint plate in the first photo. But seeing the closeup, it all makes sense and looks right.

They do look nice. I only replaced my upper & lower ball joints a few months back, but they've already lost that glossy black look.

 

Some of mine have had a nice Green tint when flushing
Water=algal bloom, go figure. I thought it was green from metal components in the system.

Lately I've done it solo with a hose on the bleeder/high looped/then into a jar with some fluid in it. Jar at or above caliper level.
Been pretty pleased with the results. Push at least a whole quart (big bottle) through the system.

 

Whats the deal with the slip yoke on 2wd'? Grease it, or does it use atf?
Edit: because of the carrier bearing, the slip yoke doesnt seem to slip for suspension.


The offset lift (lowering) block bugged someone for some reason, and w/e, i understand its not as supported as possible.



the black block has the pin/pin hole in line, and is offset. So ordered the lowering kit block, with offset pins/holes, but that doesnt change the overhang on the block. If we move the axle off the original pin, its gonna sit wonky in the wheelwell.

 

Big day today. Oil change, rotated tires, new lugs...greased the hell out of AC linkage, knobs, and actuator hinge...cleaned AC coil and blower fan.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/dri...ecial-05dc-refresh.133376/page-5#post-3686603

 

I didn’t get “before” measurements because I already had a spacer lift in the front of unknown height. But whatever height it was, the 6112s at 6/4 seem exactly the same from my eyeball measurements, it just rides so much smoother now. Look how thick the stock springs were compared to the 6112s. I will take measurements tomorrow and post them from top of hub/bottom of hub and where I estimate the center of hub to be. Then measure again in a month or so once it settles. I was distracted with brake flushing today.

shifty are you saying you’re surprised I went with the springs from the 6112 kit instead of the 700# springs?

bleeding the brakes with Bosch 5.1 was super easy because of my VSC system. I had a neighbour just press on the brake pedal and hold because the motor would pump the fluid right out no pumping the pedal. I have a huge brake fluid reservoir so I ended up using almost 2 quarts and hitting every corner twice. I did not want to run the res dry so I the first bleed was about 80% new 20% old. I have no rear portioning valve to bleed, and I still have enough fluid left to go lock up the brakes and cycle the fluid in the ABS system on some dirt road and flush the last little bit but I already had 5.1 in it apparently and it was not as bad as I expected.
First (R to L) jar was turkey basted from the res, second bottle from all corners, and the last one was really clear from the second round of bleeding to make sure the diluted fluid was pushed out.

 

Nope. I meant if it’s level I’d be shocked if you have stock LEAF springs out back. Guess the word leaf is important! My bad. Or maybe you have a block out back?

 

@Bed Tundy What springs are those that you have with the 6112s? Are they 650#? Looking at suppliers, some seem to not even mention any spring spec, which I must admit is a little dismaying.

 

Yes it is 650#, nobody provides any information on their site. I got mine and the part number on the shock didn’t match anything I could find online. But these springs are available online and in some pictures of the 6112s you can see them. Spring part number E4-FD1-Z449B02

side note, check out these new plates!!! Not for the tundra but for my little silver vw golf tdi. It’s shaped like a foil wrapped baked potato.