What have you done to your 2.5 gen Tundra today?

LOL the eye rolls and comments of get this shit out of the kitchen is a regular occurrence here

 

One of us, one of us!

 

I had some time the last couple evenings to make some progress on the roof rack extension and rear door mounting.
I decided to just add to the current rack instead of build a new one and it worked out great. I scored a couple huge ROAM cases a while back on a trade so I mounted them up there and had to turn my traction boards and move my radio antenna but it was a pretty simple job. What's two more holes in my non leaking roof??



Next up was drilling a ton of holes in the rear doors of the camper to mount a couple pieces of L track. I just used rivnuts and 3m tape to mount these. The passenger side will have the trash bag and a 10# propane tank. The driver side will have a case with my water heater, hoses and other miscellaneous water stuff and then a second 10# propane tank.

 

VLED bed lights
FYI for anyone who finds this in a search.. the instructions they provide are for a Tacoma. You will have to mount the relay/grounds by a self tap or drilling. The cargo switch wires will need to come up through the drivers rear footwell grommet. Other than that… plug and play!

Wired the mictuning 60” strips to activate with cargo/bed

VLED footwell lights front and rear

 

Slapped this bad boy in after work yesterday and hooked up the trickle charger to top off.

Noticed on my drive to work today the battery light didn't go off and I'm still only running on 13.2-3V.

If the diode isn't working anymore, I'm assuming the alternator is only pushing stock volts which could trigger the light? Hooked up an inline fuse so that could be blown too.

Either that or the alternator is going out.

 

Isn’t stock volts 13.8v? On a full charge for my X2 power, I get 14.6v on start up. Then as I drive, I’m around 14.0-14.1.

 

My stock averages 13.3

 

My '21 Pro does the same thing...

I'm guessing that damn shark fin on the roof is sending out waaaaay too much of my info to the world

 

Yeah I think my charging system is no bueno

 

I installed the RAS on the truck about a month ago. It was easy-pezy. I set it to the lowest (white disk?) setting because at that setting the gap (between the top of the tire to the fender) was about 2.5" higher for the rear over the front. Using the higher RAS setting (black disk?) it was another 1" more than that. The plan was to put a 2" spacer on top of the struts to balance things out. I bought the spacers, but never got around to installing them.

Anyway, this past weekend I was finally able to do some towing with it. The RAS worked well hauling my race bike, tires, tools, spares, and etc. in the 14' trailer (aluminum frame) to the track. Although I did have a fair bit of squat in the rear, with the rear being just slightly lower than the front. So now I'm thinking I should go with the higher RAS setting (black disk?) which will put me at about 3.5" higher for the rear over the front. I started to think I might want to go with a 3" spacer on top of the struts to balance things out instead of the 2" spacer.

Then I decided to look more closely at the top of the strut itself ... and it kind of looks like it already has something installed (see pic below).

So the question is, what am I looking at here. This is a spacer, correct? The ones I've seen, and the one I purchased, seem to be solid aluminum, but this one looks kind of rubbery. Any idea who makes this one? In addition, how should I measure it to determine what size spacer it actually is? I'm thinking this might be a 1.5" - 2" space already. I think the thickest spacers I've seen thus far are 3". So maybe I can get another 1" out of the current setup by going with a 3" spacer, which helps the truck sit a little better than it currently does on the low RAS setting and at least help out a tad on the high RAS setting.

So, I guess my final newb question is ... before I do anything stupid, am I thinking about this correctly?

Thanks in advance.


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Do you have blocks in the rear as well? Just curious how you have 3.5" of lift in the rear....

I'm not sure about the spacers up front, but if you already have some, I'd assume you could measure how thick yours is and compare to what is on the truck. Then figure out the lift height difference. I know the coachbuilder shims are half the thickness of the lift they provide or something like that (quarter thick shim gives like half inch lift).

 

No blocks or shackles in the rear (that I'm aware of). I should have grabbed a picture of the rear too. The higher RAS setting just gives it that much more lift in the back. So below is the profile pic of the truck before the RAS. Just image the rear sitting a measured +/- 3.5" higher over the rear tire (from bottom of fender). It looked ridiculous, which is why I went went with the lower setting on the RAS.

Edit: You are correct about the Coachbuilder shims. For their 1" lift shims they state that "[t]his product provides a 1:2 ratio and will measure .50" in actual thickness."

 

That’s a puck for sure.

If you’re doing all this to tow better, I’d suggest just picking up a set of 5100s.

 

Odd, I have the RAS as well and gained an inch with it. I'm a little confused how you have so much more lift in the rear with having blocks up front too.

I have about 2" lift up front with 6112, I added the RAS cause I was about level without and I'm back to having some rake. But not like what you have. Take a pic of your leaf springs to show the u-bolts. If you have blocks, they will be between the leafs and the frame.

 

Thanks. I'll try to grab some pics tonight.
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That is a cheaper steel spacer lift on your front struts.

Like Robert said, something ain’t right in the back if you’re getting that much lift in the ass unless you’ve got lift shackle or non-factory leafs

 

Installed the TRD air flow accelerator (PTR03-34079) in the stock airbox.

Hardest part was not losing the rubber grommets on the 10mm bolts holding the lower airbox in. Total install time was 15 minutes, and 10 of that was messing with the grommets.

I can't tell any difference in power or sound, but I do think it flows better and it's OEM fit and cheap enough ($30), so I'm happy with it.

 

Did you remove the grey filter in the top of the air box?

 

I did that on my 2013 but never did it on the 2020. Now I don't have to worry about removing it with the Stillen.

 

Didn’t really need to do anything with the grommets. Once you loosened the (2) 10mm bolts holding the air box in place, the box should have just came out easily.

 

Did 400 mile trip on mine after the swap. Truck runs smoother, shifts smoother. I also think it downshifts better also. No power gains from what I can tell, but I love what it does for 30 bucks invested.

 

Guys I know this is a forum for out tundras but you’re always so helpful. My dads GM dealer says dealer they diagnose transmission problem until the engine runs well on his 2017 gmc Sierra.

Father lost power on the highway and truck would only move in one gear. Had it towed to dealership who says that the truck “runs rough” and occasionally misses, says they can’t diagnose any transmission issues until that is figured out. My father states that at times the truck does run rough. Dealer attempted to replace an injector which didn’t fix the issue. Service advisor says five mechanics were puzzled and ultimately decided that the crankshaft must have lost shape and that it needs to be replaced to the tune of $5000. Is it true the transmission can’t even be diagnose posed until the engine issue is solved?

They aren’t charging him for the injector replacement (for now, I’m sure they would if he took the truck elsewhere)

 

Did you reset your ECM after the install? Did you unhook your battery during the install?

 

I did neither. You can do the entire install without unhooking any electronics. The video I saw on it didn't have me doing any resets.

 

I'd buy that. I would imagine that they can still read any codes that the transmission is throwing just fine, but without consistent load (ie: a well running engine) I'd think it would be impossible to actually run the truck through all the gears to see what's wrong. But I'm just some dude on the internet with a keyboard, not an actual mechanic, so take this with a very large grain of salt

 

No need to do that. Just take out the air box and remove the piece that’s on the air box and replace with TRD intake accelerator.

 

I think he's merely asking to say that mileage/hp output could be more accurate from a reset post install.

 

For a better gain, now do a SABM

 

Here are the promised pictures. My apologies in advance for the quantity. Since I wasn't sure which one may or may not prove relevant, I just went ahead and uploaded them all:




















The End.

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Has it arrived yet?