What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I just remembered the overload leaf situation. Probably simulates a rear sway bar.
Are the front shocks new?
Most the time I've seen people only recommend deleting the front sway bar if you have decently upgraded/stiff front suspension.

 

Spot on, I've put 1200lb in the back and it just looked at me like... is that all you got? Sagged about an inch, maybe 1.5?
New 4600s up front, on one stock spring(pass) and one TRD spring(driver)/ New LCAs / new OEM LBJs

 

Wait... Why are you running two different coils?

 

Driver’s lean delete kit

 

Yesterday I used a very tiny file to ream out the brass outlets of my windshield washer spray nozzles. They work a little better but I need to buy some replacement ones that give more of a spray than a jet like the OEM ones.

 

Pickup some for the ‘05+ it’s more of a fan pattern if I recall. @The Black Mamba did a good write up on it w pics

 

accident side/was replaced with a monroe quick strut/needed a good stock spring.

Inadvertently yes
It was the ONLY junkyard coil in my area.... had to buy the whole strut assembly and break it down and stick my new 4600 in there.

 

Scheduled an alignment for the 3rd at the best alignment shop in town per @JakeJake recommendation. Wheelers AAL will be going on this weekend as well as lifting the coilovers. No rain scheduled and 83 that day. Should be fine.....

 

So took my front sway bar off over a year ago, added a rear sway bar around that time and added my bigger camper shell. Felt good but then, added Archive Garage leaf springs and U Bolt flip kit and had to remove the rear sway bar because it no longer fit with the U bolt flip.

Had that setup for over a year now and definitely get some body roll on the higher speeds, and even the lower speeds probably from the weight of the camper and camping gear, but over all felt pretty good. I think the medium duty archive springs helped alot.

Then recently added a new rear (chevy/GMC) sway bar with the repurposed end links that I made recently for a trip up the coast this weekend to a friends wedding. Whoa that rear sway made the truck feel so much more planted and took away practically all the body roll. It was good having no sway bars for a year to really get used to how that felt, and now adding just this one new variable (the rear sway bar) really let me feel the difference! Like a whole new truck on the highway

 

That's when I notice mine the most, on the highway. Especially the second I kick the wheel to hit an exit ramp, and if the exit ramp is one of those 270-degree jobs, I'm keeping it under 30mph on exit, seems to handle decently under acceleration on entry.

Remind me the details of what year rear sway you used, and what mods you had to make to get it to bolt up?

 

Exactly, the 270 degree on ramps and off ramps is where i would feel it the most. I wouldnt go too fast but the body roll would be enough to remind me to keep it slow. Now I feel like I can just zip around the offramps, haha

 

Well shit. Got everything I need to put these together but … Can’t find my f’n spring compressor. I swear I’ve torn this place up and down and not seeing shit. I refuse to use auto parts store kit, they usually have the widowmakers, and I don’t even think that style will work with the tight coil spacing in the 6112s by the look of it. #FML

 

I missed this part of your reply!

The rear sway came off a 2002 GMC Yukon I believe, however i found several similar rear sways on the Chevy Tahoe of different years. Probably the same generation.

The only mods I did to make it bolt up was lengthening my OEM front sway bar links. But really any proper length link could work. Youll need at least the lower link bolt to be a right angle on the end link to fit the rear sway eyelet.

Also the brackets on the axle arent wide enough for the U bolts to fit the axle. I welded up a bracket under the bracket to "widen" the bracket front to back.

The U Bolts came from Addco, just ordered them online for a first Gen Tundra.

 

Heres a pic of the bracket, before being welded and a 7/16" hole drilled into it for the ubolt.



Oh and the part number from Addco for the U bolts is: 35-405-0M (3/8 x 3 x 3 7/8 U Bolt)

Ill take some pics after work of it all painted and bolted up.

Keep in mind, I found from digging online that the OEM Chevy sway bars are possibly hollow, and the one I found was aftermarket from Dorman which was apparently preferred for being solid. So I got lucky at the junkyard finding that one!

 

Oh, I did not know there was an AT4 tire. These are AT4Ws. They are quiet to me, but that is subjective. I don't even noticed them while driving. They are no more noisier than the original BFG KOs I took off. I only have about 20 miles or so on them.

 

What spring compressor you use? I used a set from Amazon and I could not get the spring to compress enough to install the height clip on the 3rd position of the 5100s. I was too afraid to push my luck with the compressor so I settled on the 2nd position, which is basically stock. According to the dealer, the springs are TRD springs and they are very tight and compact. One day I may go at it again or just find a shop and take the struts to them and let them compress those springs. No biggie though because I got rid of those Carquest struts and body roll.

 

Go for the non-compressor method.

 

I'm a fan of "if you got the tools, use 'em!" camp.

And I'd prefer to have everything assembled for easier install, rather than relying on the truck to compress everything for me.

Well, the one I'm trying to hunt down is similar to a small Branick, that's wall-mounted. I also have one similar to this one that's rebranded under 50 different names including VEVOR that I got back in the early-mid 2000s, but prefer not to use it. I assumed the wall mount was in the attic. I'm wondering if one of the guys I had contracted for HVAC or basement remodel stuff) where my shop was may've runoff with the wall mount one. That would explain why I can't get the HVAC guys out, and our GC fell off the face of the planet.

​

 

But it sounds like you're currently in the "don't got the tools" camp.
Hopefully someone didn't walk off with it.

 

Let me rephrase: I have a tool, just not my preferred tool.

 

I compressed (for the first time ever) the used TRD coil I bought with an Oh Riley rental setup.
For a 4600 though, but it wasn't as bad as I thought...

 

Anyone familiar with and have used this spring compressor? I think I need something along this line to compress those TRD springs. I know this is not your true high end professional unit.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CGXJ9TS...&pd_rd_r=08e3220d-fb88-46b2-b80f-e7ac8be8b7e9

 

I was curious myself and started looking at them when I looked up the VEVOR picture earlier.

I saw a bunch of 1 star reviews showing the red arms snapping off totally. That was enough for me to be, like, "Ah....this is why it cost 1/10 the amount a wall-mounted or freestanding unit does..."

 

Compressing your own springs with the amazoon budget option, what could go wrong? / How were we supposed to know?

 

I’ll have to take a pic of the ones my father used back in the 70s made of US steel and 1.5 times thicker than the Autozone widow-maker spring compressors.

At least back then most cars had springs comparable to our trucks so they weren’t intentionally made for thin springs with questionable steel quality.

 

Like owners who thought how could anything go wrong with my LBJs? It’s a Toyota, drive it until the wheels fall off…literally.

 

Have used 3 compressors / shock on stock coils instead of 2 (as seemed like would be less load on each but tricky to get placement). Sounds like that might not fit it the coils are tighter....

 

6112's are chubby with a tight spring. Gonna want a wall mount.



yall think thats rust or grease on the bottom of my upper arm?

 

JBA's in TX? Probably grease.