What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I forgot to ask. Since I replaced the original BFG KO tires:

1. Do you think I can sell the BFG KO tires. They still have 11/32" of thread left?
2. If so, how much do you think I could get for them?

 

No it’s in California north of The 10

 

Yes. I'd check your local Craigslist posting and FBM postings.

 

So only ~25% tread gone? Assuming even wear and no plugs/patches, if less than 3 years old, I'd probably aim to get $500 for the set and hope to clear $400.

 

FTFY

 

The i-10

 

the 10! LOL

 

Fantastic. Only took me 14 years to look into this!

 

Swaybar end links back on. Even more noticeable yesterday, that for me they make a considerable difference, at least for my setup.

 

I've got a random brake question. In normal driving my brakes are just fine, but when I'm coming down the mountains and need to slow down just a little bit the brakes and steering wheel vibrate like crazy. Usually when I've had warped rotors I can feel them at least a little bit all of the time. Could it be something else?

 

Do you engine brake going down the mountains? Have you tried re-bedding the pads to see if that makes a difference?

Also, at the bottom of the mountains or after heavy braking, do you come to a stoplight or park with your foot on the brake after?

 

I would pull and " re-bed" pads n calliper. If they still have life that *might fix it.

 

They're not really steep enough to need to engine brake, it's just a few sections where the car will get going a bit faster and I need to scrub off 5 miles an hour. Or slow down a bit for the car in front of me.

Also, there's plenty of runout after I get out of the mountains for the brakes to cool before I have to stop at a light.

Rotors are cheap enough I don't have a problem replacing them, just confused because any other time I've had to replace rotors they act warped all the time, not just in one very specific scenario.

 

My other theory here is stopping downhill will shift weight more towards the front and may not be activating the LSPV the same to add rear braking. So more is being asked of the front brakes in these situations exposing the flaw.

 

I like it, but should have clarified, this is the Sequoia.

 

You sneaky bastard! It is a good theory that @KNABORES had too!

 

Decided to swap out my old headlights and parking lights. I wanted something in better condition and didn't feel like trying to restore the non-oem housings.



I also found a can of SEM trim paint in my cabinet and gave the bumper trim a little cleanup. While waiting for the paint to dry I did a pretty thorough undercarriage flush. The amount of mud coming out was ridiculous.

 

I broke down and bought new step plastics recently. Just the left/right though, not the center. Center was too much $$ for OEM.

 

OEM sounds pricey. I thought painted would look way better than what was there, but still doesn't fix the bumper crumble beneath it.

 

Side panels wer roughly $30/ea. Not too bad.

I think the center part was like $120, and, frankly, I'm not paying that much

 

Only $30?

Can you send the part numbers for the left and right. I was going to buy a left side from rockauto but they dont ship to California

 

It's been a while since my last post, but there has been no shortage of updates to my DC.

Starting off with a purchase of a used LEER camper top... I had lurked on the Facebook marketplace and Craiglist for months, and hard a very hard time finding one in decent condition. It had to have all windows all intact, and also a sliding window at the front so I can reach into the camper from the back seat. There were many that were posted up in the VT and MA areas, but it was just not worth the drive.

Ended up finding one that fits the DC well. Upon closer inspection, it was likely for a different vehicle altogether. Good thing that the color matched up. Had to drive out to Long Island to grab this one, about 1.5 hrs away.

The guy wouldn't budge on his price, $520, despite the gas struts (for rear window) needing replacement and the 3rd brake light was not working (he gave me a cheapie replacement he got off of Amazon that was waiting to be installed).

I replaced the gas struts at $26 for a pair. OEM replacement from Suspaparts, made in USA, from Amazon.

Overall, I'm fairly happy with it. It will give me the ability to overstuff the bed with camping gear. I plan to replace the 3rd brake light and add some interior lamps, and a lighter socket at some point.

 

Alright, I have these supplies.



For my many small rusted rock chips, these are the basics? I see above you just mention hitting it with naval jelly first. But there must be some reason I bought the wire brushes. Do they come in before the naval jelly? During?

I definitely plan to get to this before the weather turns cold.

 

I need to do this, along with a paint correction on the good panels before I repaint the bad ones.

 

Obligatory, "Check your part numbers. $30/each during one of the big sales. Here's the p/n from my text file:
Rear Bumper Top Plate RH: 52163-0C010
Rear Bumper Top Plate LH: 52164-0C010

 

Show me a pic of the serial plate. It should be inside the shell, under the back window on the rail, Near the door opening. Tundra shells will typically have the word "TUN" in it if it's a newer Leer, which it may be seeing it lacks the bottom flare out on the sides.

If your serial number plate only has a number, it's pretty old, but you can go to Google and type in authorize Leer dealer <yourcity> and find an authorized dealer. Tell them you've got a Leer shell, but the fitment seems off, "Can you run the serial number and confirm this is for my truck?"

No clue why you have the brushes. When I said brushes I mean ACID BRUSHES (see pic below).

Pop the lid on the Jelly, get your acid brush, dip into the bottle and lump the Jelly onto your chips. Wait 10 minutes, or if it's really bad, give it 20. Rinse thoroughly. Put on your zoomers, any evidence of rust still there or is it nice grey metal? If any orange is visible, repeat.

All clean? Pop the top on the No.7, dab a little on your fingertip. Continuous circle into the rock chip with medium pressure for 20-30 second count, should be plenty. Buff away thoroughly with your pads, or a clean microfiber towel.

Rinse/clean again. Allow to thoroughly dry, or manually dry with a lint-free cloth. Read the directions on your paint pin for re-coat times. There are a lot of tricks to keeping the paint from bulging/running.

Allow plenty of time to dry, it's entirely possibe a full cure time in hours/days may be on the instructions.

There are ample tips online showing how to knock down the high spots, too. A popular method is to tape the outer 20% on both sides of a new, sharp rectangular flat razor blade, then hold the blade perpendicular to the panel and move back/forth to knock it down, similar to windshield repair.

You'll want to use your blue discs and take a good clearcoat-safe polish to them after full cure. Then top with wax.

This is just how I do it. YMMV, especially if you have clearcoat. Buffing compound is an ultrafine abrasive. You may need to compound the entire panel if you end up with shiny circles at the touch-up site. If so, again, follow with polish, then wax, and never let your blue pad or foam touch the ground.

​

 

I replaced the original lift gate due to a snapped bottom bolt on the right hinge. It came this way when I bought the truck (used). There was no way to easily extract the broken bolt. The remaining two bolts that secure the hinge were strong enough, but when the lift gate is lowered, it does not sit level with the truck bed. It dips slightly lower and it always bugged me.

Well, I came across a Facebook Marketplace listing at $85 and jumped on it fast.

Overall, it was in much better condition than my original lift gate. Found some rust underneath the top trim. Used one of those wire brushes that attach to a drill and scraped off as much rust as possible.

I was originally planning to use Plasti Dip in the original black matte finish, but I came across their new "gloss" version. Picked up 6 cans from Home Depot. I found it very difficult to maintain a uniform glossy sheen. The key to a glossy finish is to spray enough paint to maintain a wet layer as you move to next section. The spray cans just couldn't spray enough paint to keep it that wet. I think the better way is to spray the regular matte black, and once done, use their clear coat gloss spray. The result below took 6 coats.

The rubbery texture tends to attract dust. Not happy about that either.

 

Finally replaced the rotted out muffler. Couldn't ignore it anymore when I found out it was easy peasy. I was able to swap it out without having to jack the truck up.

$120 for the Walker Sound FX muffler from Advance Auto Parts, free shipping.

 

Definitely old...