What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I had that record on vinyl, and I remember looking at it about 5 million times, and here 40 years later I'm just now realizing why the peephole is there. "fl(eye) on the wall". Wild.

 

I appreciate my truck more than ever. I've been driving grandpas 3rd gen taco back & forth to the houston medical center.



When i get some time i'm cutting my resonator out & plugging my intake baffles.

 

Well, this was yesterday, but I disconnected the DRL cable and TRIED to find my RS3000 ECU. Pulled the lower dash panel, looked up over the gas pedal, but didn't see it anywhere. I DID find the Glass Break ECU dangling above the Emergency Brake.

 

For 2003, you should have RS3200, and it would be up between the gauge cluster and radio, up inside the dash. A picture of what the RS3200 black box looks like, with its distinct purple sticker is here. IIRC, we've even seen some late-2002 manufactured trucks with RS3200 instead of RS3000. Find the black-taped-up white box in the dash and look for the distinct metal dogleg bracket holding a black box up deep in the dash. Pull to ensure it's correct part number.

If you did have RS3000, @FirstGenVol shows a pretty good pic of the RS3000 location here in reply #115, and a more-zoomed-out pic in reply #117 (reply # is in the right corner of each comment box) and sometimes RS3000 is wrapped in foam like this, if you see the black-taped-up white box again, I think it's just above that, looking for a grey box with grey or beige foam around it. More helpful details here.

One thing worth adding here too, both the RS3000 and RS3200 supported the in-dash 'security' light with embedded glass break sensor.

 

What you going to use on the intake tube?
Chop and seal with some PVC stuff?
I bet you could chop up that CAI tube I gave ya to fit to the air box.

 

That might be it. If not, they're connected for sure.
My rs3000 had a glass break sensor, but I don't recall the glass break sensor having its own ECU. The sensor was like a microphone.
On my 99 Tacoma the rs3000 ECU was behind the drive kick panel.
On my 03 Tundra the rs32000 ECU is behind the gauge cluster. Hope this helps.

https://www.parksoffroad.com/tacomamods/alarminfo/alarminfo.htm

 

Discovered just how affordable OBD2 dongles have become. My brother has this one from Walmart for about $50. You have to download an app to your smartphone and connect the dongle to the phone using Bluetooth. Running it on the 2002 AC yielded the exact sames 2 codes as the nicer tool used by the tech at AutoZone. This tool can also display and record real time telemetry from the vehicle, which might prove useful if you were troubleshooting or verifying a performance enhancing upgrade.

 

Yup, I'm using the OBDLink MX+ and love it. More powerful than some of the cheapies you can get at Wallyworld etc. and the smartphone app is loaded with features, hook-ins, and they're constantly updating it to unlock other new/cool features. Has the ability to hook into every ECU in my truck just about, including TMPS.

 

The 3D printed mount was so warped after this summer I tossed it and bolted the auxbeam inside the sun glass holder. Don’t even know where I put the factory one haha.

 

Can your printer do warping resistive types of plastic like polycarbonate?

 

I didn’t print it. It was purchased from ocd4wd I think.

 

Remind me to look for mine before Merus. You can have it. I also have a 3D printed one now, but mine has been good to go for about 2.5 years.

 

All good this is nut and bolted in with loctite with the intention of not taking it out. I even tried trimming the mount to cover the sides but didn’t love it. Plus the angle upwards is easier to see at a quick glance.

 

…and to think that a couple weeks ago i sold the original 24 year old rust free OEM exhaust system out of my 2000 on craigslist for $200 (including the cats). If i ever have the misfortune to moving to a “salt state”, i’m going to get a first hand reality check on rust.

 

Put the Amazon dent popper to work. I’d give it a 4/5. It didn’t blow me away, but it certainly made the dents much less noticeable. The deeper crease dents were harder to get to pop out well and you can still see them. Some takeaways below if anyone else decides to use it. I’d post pictures, but dents are really tough to see in photos.

1. Clean off the surface with dish soap and alcohol for the best glue adhesion
2. The black hot glue sticks seems to thin out better in the glue gun and pulled harder than the yellowish clear ones
3. Load up the puller tabs with a lot of glue
4. Do it in the shade or at least in cooler weather
5. Wait about 10 minutes for the glue to harden well
6. The black puller tabs seemed way stronger than the blue ones
7. Mineral spirits will get residual glue off

 

Before and after pics? I’ve got a few dents that could use some poppin

 

I recently (1yr ago) bought a new scratch and dent fridge at half off. It was immaculate, shy of one small ding and one tiny ding in the stainless front door.

I'd looked at getting that same kit to pop the ding on the door out. But I came to realize IDGAF really. Still, I think about it sometimes.

 

Was using this for the back of my floating head unit, but then incidentally found a way to keep the vents from moving without permanently fixing them or damaging. Used little felt sliders off Amazon I had laying around for barstools, tables, and whatnot to protect non carpet floors. Bonus you can use them for what they’re intended for.

Vents still easily adjust, but don’t move around.

 

Also tucked my GMRS under the console and used the cupholder slot for charging and my bass knob.

 

Helped my mom get new tires on the truck and 5th wheel yesterday. I’m getting pretty good at backing that beast in

 

It’s really idiot proof. Not bad for $30 and 30 minutes

 

These aren’t the best photos but they’re the best angles I could get. I numbered the dents so you can tell which is which. First 2 pictures are before. Last 3 are after.

 

Thought I'd get the Tundra out today, battery is shot. Charged it a bit, drove it a bit, turned it off and click click click.
Looks like I'm battery shopping this week, which is ok as the date on the battery is 12/18...
Maybe next weekend I can clean her up and sport her a bit, she's been sitting since June

 

Proximity of that one dent next to the stake pocket hole would be easy as hell for a PDR guy to pop out for (probably) less than $50-75.

 

Well, you officially have less miles than me. I was at 79,607 miles as of yesterday while filling up with my awesome $2.94/gal gas.

 

I'm going to start driving it more, worried about letting it sit months on end. I just hate paying for the ~14mpg's.
818 miles since mid-August of 2023 ain't good..

 

Spending all summer hiking every day with the kids all up and down NW GA really did a number to pad on the miles.

Don't get me wrong. I'd love to have a little putter (Corolla/Camry/Yaris/Scion/Prius/Matrix/whatever), but when I did the math, if the state assesses it at $5k-6k value, I'm out about $600 on registration, then another $80-120/mo on insurance to get one less fillup per month @ $35-45/tank? The numbers just don't add up. I'm still casually hunting, but my partner in crime is telling me she'd prefer something a bit newer, even if it means spending more like $8k-12k to get it, just to "feel better" about the oldest being "safer" when she's able to drive in ~13 months.

If we had the extra car, not gonna act like I wouldn't be driving it instead of the truck though.

 

Yep. I got my commuter in Oct '22 and have put ~48k miles on it...

 

I hardly put any miles on my 2018 because I need it to last for a long time. I drive it once a week, very gently, just to keep the fluids flowing and the seals lubricated. Am I doing any good? Time will tell I guess.

I had an old K5 Blazer that sat for months on end and I ended up with some dripping leaks when I finally had to use it for a daily driver, so I am taking a different approach this time. I'm sure the material quality on the seals has improved significantly since then though.

 

I have a 2600 mile road trip coming up next week. So I figured I should clean and polish up my very yellowed headlights. I used a $13 Turtle Wax kit from Home Depot. It did a pretty good job. I think the box said it would be good for 12 months, so that really means 2 months tops.