General Supercharger Thread

The PSB-1 has been perfect until I messed with it to add the ECF-1. The original sensor is on the passenger downpipe, I figured it made sense to have the gauge monitor the side it was on so when I got the ECF-1 I took it's sensor but the ECF-1 refused to display proper data. I now know it was bad out of box apparently seeing as the new gauge worked immediately.

I'm sure I'll figure it out.

 

I started a thread on these super cheap Motive gears I found in case anyone here is interested, and also if anyone has any experience with them I’d love to hear it.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/extremely-cheap-5-29-gears-motive-gears-ok.149056/#post-3727119

 

Sorry for your experience on that call. I have a different experience. I never purchased anything from him until I got a valve body a few months ago.
I've asked questions, bounced ideas off him for the past 10 years. I may have gotten a few NJ type responses but nothing in a condescending tone.

 

Just, wow!

 

Need some opinions on an installed price of 10k for a Magnuson 2650, good deal/fair? Thanks for the help.

 

Fair. That's like $2000-$2500 in labor? Sounds right. I estimate $2500 for a fresh blower install the couple times people ask me.

 

Yeah, it is what it is. I didn't mention it but a few years back I had one of those ghetto shift kits. The one that had the aluminum rods that went in the 3 accumulators. Anyways I was tire if the hard shifts and decided to go back to stock. I called him to ask him where the springs went since it was like 6 of them and I messed up the order and once again, he was an ass. Must be the S. Fla area code that gets him wound up, lol. Lesson learned.
Good news, I picked up my DD exhaust. Bad news, we have another hurricane coming towards us. The price of living is so called paradise, lol.

 

How's your VB by the way? Didn't you say something about softing up the shifts? I know he changes out some of the accumulator springs for a firm shift. I don't expect mine to be a full version of his but I did get the line pressure boost kit which he's does and it should firm up my shifts some since it adds pressure to the band and clutches. The rest of the kit is just preventive maintenance for the short comings of our VB's.

 

Just came in. Hell yeah. I assume the injectors are a simple swap with the SC installed? Haven't really looked. During the SC install it was easy peezy. @snivilous just need a pulley and for the hurricane to pass

 

It shifts really well. Clean and crisp not harsh at all. Yes at least it will prevent the accumulator from leaking atf so it will firm it up by having better holding presure.

 

I've noticed the TB gets insanely hot even without the coolant flowing through it. The guys that have disconnected the coolant lines to the TB, have you considered teeing into the intercooler lines to actively cool the TB?

 

Now that’s an idea

 

Never occurred to me.

I have appropriate hose for the job!

 

Is it plausible that the idea is to always have the TB within a particular temperature range for the sake of consistency of operation? In the winter the coolant warms it to 180-190F, and in the summer it cools it to 180-190F? Or to approximately whatever T-stat is installed.

 

Have you checked with a IR gun to see what temp it's getting too? Also, if you do tie in to the SC intercooler lines then wouldn't you be transferring that heat of the TB to the intercooler. Considering it was talked a while back about trying to get the intercoolers cooler with bigger heat exchanger and such. I have to go pick umps daughter today at work. I will take a IR gun with me and report back what temp I see.

 

113* TB and 126* SC snout.

 

I found the post that I made about four years ago in the throttle body coolant bypass thread:

 

That's more along the lines of what I found with my IR the other day - 170ish degrees at the throttle body. But that was just running around town on a hot day. I keep forgetting to throw my iR thermo in the truck when pulling a trailer to measure. That, and I'm usually headed somewhere and would need to remember to actually pull over and measure..

 

That was with the TVS1900. I have a little running about to do tomorrow, if I remember I'll see if the temps are any different with the TVS2650, although I'd be mildly surprised if they were.

 

I was able to remember to bring my IR thermometer when I went out today. All the temps were +- 5-8 degrees of what I measured years ago on the TVS1900.

 

I know most of y'all are in the States.

my TRD mid-pipe/mufflers are free to a good home, will need some slight fab work cause changed to v-bands on the connectors, and I do not have the tips as I lost them.

 

I like the use of v-band clamps. My headers to mid pipes have them and thought of doing it like your exhaust at several areas instead of the gaskets.

 

Boost leak tests…

For anyone that’s done this - and feels they have a good/sealed system - what was your setup? What psi did you reach? why? How long did your system maintain it?

I’ve read that all you need to do is seal-off the system at the throttle body, and raise the pressure to 5 psi (or your boost limit) and look for a pressure drop of no more than 1 psi/sec. Anybody have experience doing this?

What I did - I sealed off the whole truck… throttle body thru to tailpipes. Raised the pressure to 8 psi and looked for leaks. Found/fixed several. The truck now holds pressure from 8 psi to O in several minutes… like, 5ish. I think I have more leaks to find...

I’m thinking I should test the system according to the procedure I read about (not a full system seal, only the intake).

Thoughts?

 

3 1/2" weeks in shop and finally approved by insurance for a supplement, so now work can begin lol. Miss the truck when I get it back I'm gonna modify something haha

 

That would be a hard test if you include the exhaust. Besides spraying soap all over the engine bay I don't know if I would rely on timing it since the exhaust I would think would leak like a sieve.

 

If my fuel trims are golden I'm happy!

 

It certainly did at first - I found a few leaks at the O2 sensor and at an exhaust hanger … whoever had the truck before me did a shit job at welding the hangers on.

the exhaust still doesn’t pressurize like the intake - so I might have more leaks to fix there.

as far as the intake goes, might have a small leak at the B1 injectors… yay. I’ve been battling that for over a year.

the FIC injectors have plugs that don’t fit very well in between the s/c flange and the head cover. I had to grind down the plugs to get them to fit. My guess is that the couple of injectors that appear to be leaking are doing so b/c they don’t sit quite right.

I’m thinking of trying some slightly larger bottom o-rings… or trying the FIC customer support suggestion of using some fuel resistant rtv. But, not a huge fan of that fix.

 

The Prospeed injectors were the same way, they actually come "trimmed" from Prospeed but I found that they had to get trimmed down even more to actually fit nicely. The injectors should be able to rotate to some degree, otherwise you know they're getting pinched and jammed up which tends to make the seal leak.

 

fuel trims are definitely getting happier! … but, after a few days of driving I’m still seeing some erratic data that doesn’t coincide with other sensor data… leads me to think I’ve still got more leaks somewhere…. Yay.

 

that’s a good suggestion! I hadn’t thought about doing that as a check before torquing down.