What home improvement work did you do today?

Added this to the garage meter box, will be doing the same to the house on Sunday.
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Good eye! I struggled with a tricky area around that window corner and wasn't happy with it. Pulled a few tiles off and gave that section a quick dry because the drywall compound felt soft under it. We'll see if I'm forced to have patience to redo it a third time in the morning

 

Currently looking for one myself. Which one did you go with?

 

Refinishing some brick on the house to match the shopartment we did. It’s white mortar, not paint.

 

Nice install.
Looks like a dedicated RV sub-panel, is that twisted feeder wire #4?

 

Done. 12 and 24k Bluefin (restickered Midea) units from SupplyHouse. Whole project was just about $5k with the HRV included.

It's been in the 70s during the day and low 30s the past couple days and these are keeping the house pretty much right at 72 in auto mode.

Only thing I'd do differently is buy different linesets. The pre insulated ones were a bitch to route correctly.

 

Almost all the line sets come pre insulated, and I agree they suck. The worst one I’ve done is where both lines were insulated together. I usually peel off the insulation, make the bends and cuts, and then slide it back over before final connection

 

Yeah the 5/8 and 3/8 set were insulated together and was absolutely awful. Trying to bend the 5/8 coming out of the wall was even worse.

We just use bulk copper at work and it's a lot easier to work with but considering I don't have a bender at home I figured this would be alright.

It does have a fancy app though

 

It's that time of year in AZ:

 

The out of the wall bends are always the worst, even with a bender. The spring benders are ok, but I’ll usually use the die off the bender and gently shape the pipe around the die to avoid kinks

 

$100 Joinfworld Temporary Power Outlet Panel Weatherproof, Thicker RV Pedeatal Electrical Breaker Box with 20, 30, 50 Amp Receptacle Installed and Prewired for Hookup RV Camper Travel Trailer Motorhome

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BMKDQ3T1

Gone up. I ordered during Prime Days or something. Like $75 ish. Liked the write on this one for some reason. Think it was supposed to be deeper, more space for plugs while closed.

 

Wondered if I would get any questions on that. Yes that's #4, I has access to some underwater cable that used to power a 3 phase 70 amp pond fountain that shit the bed at work. The outside jacket was so thick that I was didn't have a shot getting it thru the 1'1/4 hole. When I pulled the jacket off it had the cool twist.

 

Reluctantly dusted off my HVAC life at work to throw in 4 3 ton mini splits so auto mechanics had ac in the class rooms when the HVAC contractor quoted 70k in repairs. Hardest thing for this old timer to wrap his head around is BOTH lines sweat. Mini splits are weird.

 

Perfect! Freebies are the best.
I just scored a couple hundred feet of #10 brown, orange, yellow and green

 

Just updated the 30 amp Gen cord with donated 10/4 SO. But had to make my new 50 amp 6/4 generator cord, no pics cause non-code but perfectly safe electrical has triggered some people in the past.

 

Copy that

 

And just to show the finished product got the table moved inside. 7ft diameter top barely fit through the exterior door at an angle (base unscrews and and can move separate). Excited to try this out!

 

You can pick up a 9k Mr Cool unit for under $1,000 and you don't even need a vacuum pump or gauges. They've even got a 115v 20a version to make it even easier.

 

Work of art. Well done!

 

Yeah for sure!
The top is frigging B E A U T I F U L

 

Onto my next unemployed-life-is-fun-can't-wait-to-find-my-next-and-final-job project...

Could use some community input from anyone who knows windows, specifically picture windows. I've installed plenty of exterior windows, but this one is new on me. Don't get me wrong, the TOH video I found was insightful, but ...

Short story long, hitting the 21 year mark on the house. The [roughly 4'x5'] picture window in main floor bathroom popped its seal between the panes a few years ago. Need to replace it. Had a glass company out to look at just replacing the glass, they were willing, with a $1,500 price tag attached (!!!) but mentioned the stops the manuf'er used (a local mill made it) aren't something they carrry, and they won't be able to get reasonably, and when I called around, nobody else had them. Thus I figure the best course of action forward is to get a new custom sash made for half what they were asking and pop it in. The local mill that originally made it got bought up, closed up the mill, and I can no longer source anything from them, including all of our door & window trim, crown, and baseboards. Thankfully I already have a lot from other remodel projects.

Can't measure the sash without pulling window trim, so I spent time to carefully remove it this AM. That's one thing I have very limited amount of. And that leads me to my question, where I need some knowledge/pointers...

Questions:

1. I'm assuming the sash is flat, and the 1¼" wide strips that are crown nailed in (see 1st pic below) are simple stops to hold the window in, is that right?
2. If so, am I correct to assume the sash itself will be the same width as the stops, so measuring the stops edge-to-edge (W x H) will give me the size of sash I need to order?
3. Given this window is 10ft off the ground, is it also safe to assume the window was installed from inside?
4. If so, I assume all I really need to do here is score where the exterior trim/paint meets the outer stop, then come inside and pop off the inner stop, and push the window in from outside to remove it?
5. Or do I jut need ot attempt removing what I think are the stops to inspect what's under it? (I can't imagine they're using anything more than simple door/window shims between the sash and window opening, 1/8" max!)

If it helps, you may notice numbers written on the wall, 47-5/16 at the top of the opening, and 57-1/4 written on the side. The measurement of edge to edge of the sash and what I believe are its stops is roughly 2" larger, i.e. 47¼" x 57¼", +/- roughly 1/16" from top to bottom from top to bottom, which is why I'm thinking those strips are stops.

Input appreciated. I have a window guy I can call who'll help with this, but I'd really love to tee it all up and have things ready to drop in, shim/install/stop the new window, then I can seal, re-hang all trim, and paint.

(Apologies for the small pics, I think the forum settings were either changed to enforce smaller pics recently, or I've somehow hit a storage limit ... with all the photos I post helping other 1st gen owners on here, I wouldn't doubt if it's the latter!)

​

 

Oh, that TOH video I mentioned... in case it's interesting. Not an identical situation to mine, I don't think. But maybe I'm wrong.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WnESq2E24Lg​

 

That high and that location I’d want a vertical slider w frosted lower pane and your choice on upper pane. So you can vent in warmer months. Then you get some ROI on the spend.

Dunno about Atlanta but in San Diego on the stucco homes there are heaps of companies doing retrofits installed from the outside and fastened to the sash then foamed and trimmed on the inside.

 

I've definitely thought about options to retrofit with something that opens. My only thing is, that'll likely double the cost, or even more than double b/c it's liable to be a custom build.

We'll also want the glass acid-etched. This window was originally clear, which is stupid b/c houses in our area are built 15ft apart. My neighbor's back LR/Kitchen looks directly into this shitter, so we didn't use it for anything other than washing hands for the 1st month or two until I laid film.

Anyway, TMI on the extra info here. More than anything, I just wanna understand what I'm up against.

I can clearly see along the outer edge of the 1¼" wood border/framing (what I'm calling a "stop") which is stapled to the window sash.

I see the sash is the same width as that border/framing, at least within 1/64".

I can see at least one interior stud along the right-hand side of the window, so I'd speculate the framed window opening is ballpark 47.5 x 57.5 plus or minus 1/8".

The absence of a visual interior "stop" is what makes me think the window was installed from inside, and I'd expect it must be stopped on the outside for safety reasons, so if anybody were to trip and fly into the window, it wouldn't pop out.

 

So, learned something new today and did not enjoy the lesson....

I went to build some screens for the windows missing them and decided to cheat by pulling out this screen to measure off of....

Turns out, the windows have a lock in them that remind me of a child lock. They wont open far enough to access this little locking mechanism that caused me to damage the screen pulling it out.... fun... I said f it and built my new screen.... This kit was a lot different than what I used in the past. So not I need to figure out why the spline pops out on its own while working it in. Or why the screen wont pull tight...

I made far less progress than planned...