What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Exercise drive train, check.

 

Get off the asphalt!

 

It's wet, calm down buck shot.

 

Awesome handle
No erection!

 

How well does that oil gauge work?
Mine sometimes works, but at this point it's rare.

 

But seriously it works every day. I cleaned the sensor out and where it mounts. That improved it's performance a little. But still reads as expected, low.

 

I need to do that. But I don't know where to start.

 

Next oil change, after all the oil is drained, unplug the sensor and unscrew it. It's that simple. You can do it np bruh.

 

Yeah but where is the sensor? On the pan?

 

Right next to the oil filter

 

Right next to the oil filter on the side of that mount. You've stared right at it if you do your own oil.
Well... I'm speaking for my 2000AC.

 

Had a few minutes to myself yesterday before my wife and kids got home. I have one of those frame rail spray things that attaches to a garden hose. Used it to rinse out my passenger side frame rail. Will hopefully get the driver side taken care of today. Just prepping to apply fluid film while the weather is still decent.

 

What is this frame rail spray thingamabob that you speak of? Pics?

 

Just bought some 6 quarts of Toyota WS ‘gender neutral fluid’ to be politically correct. Plan on doing a drain and fill today while at work helpfully. I’m curious though on two things:
1. I’ve just swapped out my 2nd bad radiator and I know the trans lines run through it so I’m wondering how much fluid I’ve lost to those two changes or if it’s so minuscule that it doesn’t matter. Will return fluid I don’t use cause it ain’t cheap stuff.
2. I believe the fsm says to bring trans temp (which should be A/T oil temp #1) on my OBDlink MX+ reader) to 115F before opening check port but even on my drive to work this morning (it was cold at like 35F) the temp only got to like 106F. Would it be higher at idle and switching between Neutral and Drive I assume then?

 

1: I wouldn't worry about it if you got the hoses turned up/capped in time.

2: just drive around the block in 1st gear around 30mph. That'll warm it up!

Also, it's called gender fluid fluid. Gah.

 

I knew when buying the cheap Chinese eccentric's it was only a matter of time before they would need attention. Hit some speed bumps hard the day before the MERUS crew started showing up and slipped the two rear adjusters.

Come to find out the rear china adjusters bottom out on themselves before adequately squeezing the LCA mounts. Torqued to spec I could still spin the adjustment cam with just a little force. Actually amazing they didn't slip any sooner.

I now have probably 12+ hours into different alignment setups over the last few days. I started with salvaging the original setup based on my paint marks, but was unsatisfied. I knew after playing with it that the original alignment left a little under a degree of caster on the table. ITS MY CASTER AND I NEED IT NOW!

Used this setup to pull all my numbers

I never calculated a caster value for the final setup, but based on the previous iterations its somewhere above 2.5
camber set at -.2
3/32" total toe.

Truck drives excellent, and probably the best it ever has. Before I would call it somewhat twitchy and reactive due to the lower caster. Now it's smooth, stable and damn near drives itself.


This should keep things where I want them until I cut some alignment tabs/plates to take a standard grade 8 bolt.

 

Not home, so no pics, but this is what I'm talking about:
https://www.saltshift.com/en-us/pro...0h7JEd0MmFG2HWNnWuFXHydM0NTm4pgo0bGiIXmVF81vU

 

I feel like @FirstGenVol had something like this, but maybe it was to flush or blow out the framerails. But maybe it would still work with rust inhibitor fluids.

 

My thought was to just flush out anything that might be in the frame rails, let it dry, then shoot fluid film into the holes in the boxed frame rail sections.

 

Yes I do have that exact tool. If you want to borrow it, I'm happy to mail it to you. It's decent. I've only used it once and I think it leaked a little at the base, but it did blow junk out of the box portion of my frame.

 

That just looks like a recipe for disaster if you already have pre-existing salt spray/rust in the frame rails unless you’re using oil to spray in instead.

 

Psa if you haven’t cleaned your throttle body and maf lately do it! Truck runs so much smoother mine was filthy. Also replaced sway bar bushings with OEM and the front feels a lot better no more creaky clunk.

 

The old '05 passed provincial inspection today, just needed a foglight bulb and licence plate bulb.

 

I always turn on 4hi in traffic cause it rolls too fast when I left off the brake haha

 

Welcome back to the fray!

 

I had to replace mine as well and tried these LEDs. I've had them in a couple months and they work great. Aliexpress has them for about half the price of A mazon

 

Brakes, shocks done. Bed, tailgate back on, bumper and tow hitch too. Drove it around the block for the first time. Rides nice but alignment and a windshield is up next. 5 bulbs need replaced Had to fix the seatbelt buckle and the driver door grab handle. Interior needs seat covers. Body paint will wait till spring

 

Who are your friends?

 

These on my truck