What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Yeah, we can see what a lack of wax does for the older one.

 

Have there Ever been any that had impeccable paint care that survived?
I would guess the ones I've seen that looked good have been repainted.

 

Well if you kept it under a car port/garaged and out of the sun 90% of the time, I would imagine the paint/clearcoat would do well.

Here in the Northeast it’s only the clearcoat that becomes paper thin after time in the snow/salt but never really peels.

 

Same. Ghost in the Machine is another güd one

 

Don’t forget silver bullet

 

I need to see the Speilburg one about the psycho trucker... I think it was before Jaws but I don't remember the name.

I watched silver bullet back in like February

 

Duel. A lone trucker hero dicking with a whiny bitch.

 

Today I did my driver side rear axel shaft seal/ bearing. I defied all odds and used the 12-ton from HF.

gonna drive on it for a week and see if she starts squirting again.

 

For years I waxed the red one and then the SC sun got to the clearcoat. Most red and green FGTs here look like that. Toyota paint sucks. My wife’s 2005 Suburban looks paint looks like new.

 

A friend of mine from high school had one that was absolutely beautiful. Like, it was shocking every time I saw it.

It was owned by his mom before him, who is a police officer and a no-nonsense, do-things-the-right-way person. My buddy told me about how one of his chores as a kid was to wash and wax it. The paint was so good. It didn't matter though, because the frame had holes in it. He sold it for like $2500 to a guy who said he would frame swap it.

 

I thought it was too small to fit the axle under?

 

Sounds like alt is likely OK if pushing 14v and not showing bad on tester, but 12.1v for battery when off indicates significantly discharged so maybe why it failed the test?

https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-to-check-the-voltage-of-a-car-battery

I've been getting Interstates at Costco and 27F IIRC is $115 currently. Haven't tested them for years yet to share any longevity stats though.

 

Take a good look at the pic

 

I fabricated a roof rack for my topper. https://www.tundras.com/threads/bed-and-topper-modifications-enhancements.149993/#post-3744652

 

Yeah that one

 

As a kid I was more confused than scared of Cujo... "Why is Beethoven being a bad dog?"


But in general, I didn't think Stephen King movies were scary. Maybe I just missed out on the scary ones.

 

Prep the Tundra paint for the winter months. A tradition, I do to all our vehicles each fall where the vehicles get either a 1 step (AIO) or 2 step (Polish & seal) job, depending on the paint's condition. The used Tundra received what I call a hybrid job (compound & AIO) because it needed some love. The Salsa paint now pops and is clean, smooth, slick and shining.

- Wash
- Clay
- Compound
- Polished
- Sealed

 

me too haha, mine isn’t as professional but we’ll see if it works

 

Lil guy ain’t so little any more!
Good job papa!

 

Well found out today with my tie rods that they don’t need to be replaced just yet. The wheel wasn’t locked when the neighbor who was helping me moved the wheel back and forth.

However, I did track down the ratting noise when moving the wheel back and forth in the 9 and 3 o’clock position. It appears the brake pads are moving ever so slightly up and down against the pins when moving the rotor forward and reverse as well as in and out.

Question is where to go from here? Take it in for the inspection test and if it fails, buy new OEM brake pads and shims? Got plenty of meat and stopping power already. Don’t really want him taking the wheel off and further inspecting.

This is not good. Failure means a $460 rental for the next two weeks to deal with work issues before I revisit this again.

 

are the pads holes wollered out, or are the pins rusted into needles?

 

Pad holes are ever so slightly greater than the caliper pin width. They aren’t the specific OEM part for the Tundra just the generic Toyota OEM ceramics they make to fit multiple vehicles for a cheaper price. Weird this is my 2nd set and it never happened on the first set.

Toyota basically gives you two choices to pick from for the replacements when looking it up on their part sites.

 

Stilts! Did you have to cutout a bottom brace?

 

Sorry don't follow. How is the rotor moving if the wheel is bolted onto the hub keeping the rotor static and the caliper is attached to the knuckle...without significant bearing play...or am I missing something? Pads will move a little because they must not bind. But it seems if everything is tight then moving the wheel should not cause significant ... or any ... pad movement? When I'm spinning a wheel to listen for front bearing noise I remove the pads and use a stethescope on the knuckle bearing housing. Think you can also grab the spindle maybe the strut and feel for vibration as a first rough check.

 

I agree the rotor won’t move when the wheel is bolted on except rotating the wheel however just the tiniest bit of play with the brake pad holes being slightly larger than the caliper pin will cause it to shake up and down from jolting the wheel back and forth. Enough to make a noise. Hold the pad down against the pin with a screwdriver, noise goes away when moving the rotor.

 

Got it. Have not had pads be that loose. On my truck usually caliper keeps some friction on rotor since letting the pedal off doesnt creat a gap but good spring clips can push it back. But still don't recall them flopping around. Do you have spring clips installed?

 

Bit of a before & after. New Duratrac RTs look mean, went with a 255/75/17 on steelies. No rubbing to note at low speeds.