What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Funny you mention banana, as I have one next to me now for my work snack later.
Also because I was looking up directions to install my body lift and it rates the difficulty on a banana scale. Rated at 2-3 bananas.
= Moderately difficult; knowledge of tools and their uses required.
= Pushing the limits of a stock howler monkey;
opposable thumbs only get you so far.

 

Didn’t like the bulbous ass Rocktrix caps, wanted something cooler with Toyota branding but nothing fit the size right. Then found some generics on scAmazon that pop right in. And fit nicely tight too. Slightly convex. I just don’t want water and mud and shit caking up in there and it looked weird with a deep ass hole in the center of the wheel.

 

I have some pretty meaty sausage fingers on big ole paws. The left index finger (during my builder years) took a brutal beating from hammers, a couple pneumatic nails, and recently 2 angle grinder "incidents".
It used to be quite noticeably bigger than the other index, now it seems almost the same. Amazing I still have full ROM with it, thx to a surgeon, who spent 45min on his knees in the emergency room, on a Holiday weekend, sewing all the shit back together in there.
So grateful for that dude

 

Are they black? Looks like no cap is present

 

Sketch...

 

Oh and link to the caps. Supposedly this is a standard size for a bunch of GM vehicles?

$27 KitsPro 3.25" 83MM Wheel Center Caps for Cadillac Chevrolet Chevy GMC Escalade Colorado Tahoe Silverado Sierra 1500 Rim Hub Caps, Pack of 4 (Matte Black, Outer 83MM, Inner 75MM)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091G5DBMM

 

Flat black. I thought silver may look weird.

 

Good choice. I like the no cap look, as do many of the TX boys it would seem. So you get the best of both worlds with the black caps. I'd like to see what they looked like with no caps for comparison though.

 

You have a link for those? They look pretty nice on there. My big caps are ok, but last time I was washing it they Really popped off easy.
EDIT: thx

 

Link supplied, just a reply later than anticipated. Be sure to measure your hole. These fit TOIGHT.

 

I got no caps, but my wheels didn’t come with them. I wouldn’t mind some, but I’m not buying them haha

 

Wait a sec, isnt our "bore" like 102 or something?

 

106

 

Yeah, @shifty` running spacers that allow smaller bore rims?

 

I’m running them. just a tiny 108-106mm, but it was noticeable

 

Mine didn't come with caps, they were extra and ugly AF.


VS


Not the best looking wheels or dimensions, but eh they were cheap AF, used, but in good condition, from my buddy, before I got my hands on em. Now they all have rock rash haha

These are also 108mm, so my sweet TRD center caps don't fit
I've got some aluminum sleeves that slide over the hub and into the wheel to make them huncentric, but I never got around to installing them. So far so good. Hopefully the wheels will be replaced next year anyways.

 

I got plastic ones off Amazon. Fitment was SUPER tight. They have a tendency to get stuck so I normally roll with plastic so I can replace them if they get jammed.

 

How do your wheels have 3.25” center bore opening? Mine are 4.25” and are basically hubcentric with the dust cap

 

This is the same center bore I have. I’ve been looking for a flat cap that pops in, would like to get rid of the protruding center caps, run something more like the method center caps

 

Keep us posted if you find something cool.

 

The method caps would likely work, just hate to be a poser with them on my non-method wheels. But some cool options

 

What I was trying to say, worded better
If you run spacers w/o a matching centric ridge on them couldn't you basically mount wheels with no bore?
I know the diff between hub and lug centric. I think someone here has run something lug centric with no issues.

 

Exactly, but there’s no way @shifty` is running a set of wheel spacers. Hence my puzzlement.

 

I just noticed rocktrix has 18’s, interesting…

Still not free but the non black is relatively affordable.

 

@455h0le_dachshund these would probably work, but the whole poser thing...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2761464436...9kqHkpdT23Eeykzp394EtykZU=|tkp:Bk9SR8SX-KfcZA

really any of the method 108mm push-through style caps should work. There are some options. None are blank and flat. All have raised lettering with Method branding on them.

 

Hub bore is 106mm on the back side, then about 1/2" - 3/4" into the wheel, it tapers off to make for a smaller outer hole. Why they did this, I have NFC. Aesthetics or rigidity are my best guesses. But yeah, trying to find a spacer to fit a ~77mm opening was a PITFA. I really wanted a cap with the ovular Toyota logo. And I could potentially use the bulbous Rocktrix caps, remove their puffy clear bubble sticker off, then replace with a Toyota bubble sticker (you can buy them online), but I don't like their cap sticks out so far.

 

Hey @khooiii,

The lighting set up is looking dialed. Have you been able to take it out to any local trails to test out the lighting package?

Best,
Bill

Bill Sonevongxay | Forum Sales & Support 
Email: Bill@bajadesigns.com Phone: (760)560-2252

 

I've never had any lasting luck with any kits "clearcoat". Apply some PPF on them you won't have to worry about it as much. These lights are pretty flat so its easy to apply.

 

I've had lasting results using a Meguiar's Heavy Duty Headlight Restoration Kit. But I think part of the reason is that our vehicles are garaged.

 

I had a nightmare experience with a neighbor’s car I was refinishing this week. I’d already sanded out (600/1200/2000/3000) polished, and sealed their headlights once in 2022. They were starting to haze, their car sits in the sun all day long. So I decided this time I was going to use clear instead of a sealer.

I have a few packs of the 3M wipe-on clear, so I decide to start with those.

I cleaned really well, then used Duplicolor Paint Prep spray on them. BIG FUCKING MISTAKE. That shit melts polycarbonate lenses, apparently, similar to what DEET spray does.

So I resand, 1200/2000/3000 again to get down to good plastic. Clean with IPA. Let it sit up for a bit. Use the 3M wipes. Never had this happen with them before, but I get streaks. Wtf. Do the 2nd coat. Still streaks. Aaarggg.

Wait ‘til the next day for the clear to harden. Resand again, same 3 grits. IPA to prep, let the lenses totally dry out. Then pull out the remainder of my can of AutomotiveTouchup.com clear, which had enough in it to do both lenses 4-5 coats,10min interval per directions. Lay three mist coats. All seems ok. Plan to lay two medium coats. Lay the first, about 10 mins in I see one small spot cracking. FUCK. Wait still, it doesn’t get worse, so I lay the last medium coat. More cracking. Maybe it’s not plastic compatible? Wtf? Want to correct on the fly, not sure how but have acetone and lacquer thinner. For shits n giggles I tried one on each, little bit better, but hazed the paint elsewhere. Shit.

Next day it’s hardened off, try to wet sand buff it out, but it’s useless. No dice, cracks obvious. So I did all the same shit from my last paragraph but went 600/1200/2000/3000. Let the lenses dry overnight this time, after cleaning with IPA. Take a brand new can of Duplicolor clear Lacquer that is definitely plastic compatible. Lay down one mist coat. Start to lay down the second within interval time. On the third, after 5 minutes THE SHIT IS CRACKING AGAIN. I was PISSED.

I had to give the car back the next day so I said screwit and stopped.

Next day I wake up at 6:30AM and start sanding, 600/1200/2000/3000…… AGAIN. Dammit.

When I got to the end of sanding I polished with Novus 2 & 3, then finished with their sealer, twice, and gave the damn car back.

I still have no gd clue why in the hell the clear kept cracking every time I laid down multiple coats on these lenses. They were 15yo factory originals. I told them they should buy new housings (again, I told them last time I polished but they were paying, and I need money, so…)

Hopefully turns into another $100 for labor on a housing swap but we’ll see.