Timing belt master thread/sticky?

Thanks Jim for the info. I took it all apart again to replace that darn dust cover. While i was in there i rechecked the timing twice more to ensure proper timing. I just now tried to start the truck and it turns over but wont run. Not sure where to go from here. If i do take it to a shop, i should avoid a dealer and use a local shop? I feel like a dealer would be better, but then again i am the guy that made my truck not start so what do I know.

 

Darn. You may want to start a new thread on this to get some more visibility.

I believe that if the crank and/or cam position sensor is disconnected or in the wrong place it may cause a no-start but I'm running out of ideas.

Someone else started a similar thread yesterday:https://www.tundras.com/threads/after-timing-belt-change-crank-no-start.142242/

 

Here is my easy workaround in case you have already released the timing belt tensioner but need to remove and / or reinstall the timing belt.

From underneath the truck loosen the two bolts that hold the tensioner from the underside. Do not remove them, but back them out enough so that the belt is only slightly snug

Then remove the driver side idler pulley

when reinstalling, get the belt in place and then reinstall the idler pulley. Then tighten down the 2 tensioner bolts

Reinstalling the belt with this method turned out to be much easier and quicker than the original install method for me

PS I missed the part about not removing the rear AC compressor bolts, but learned that on my own after I had to go back to fix a coolant leak.
Much much quicker and easier this way

 

Did anyone replace the radiator when replacing the timing belt? Is that something that should be replaced or strongly considered during the belt install?

Thanks...

 

I would strongly consider it. Several parts you should consider having a 100-150k mile life. OEM LBJ and its bolts, radiator, timing belt, water pump come to mind.

 

Thanks. I will be doing the timing belt (Aisin kit) soon and will be replacing all the recommended stuff, including all the little water bypass hoses. The radiator seems to be in good shape but have also considered replacing it just because. However, I know I can replace the radiator anytime.

Do you'll go with the Toyota radiator or some aftermarket stuff? I was looking at the OEM radiator and was going to order it since Toyota had an extra 20% off discount (discount just ended). If OEM is best then I will wait for Toyota to have another discount event.

 

Denso is OEM, you can lookup your all part numbers on available OEM parts they made for our trucks www.densoautoparts.com

I highly recommend to avoid buying from scAmazon or fleaBay, not only due to the knockoff concerns, but because of shipping damage. Summit Racing or RockAuto are better choices.

Which part number you choose will depend on your cab type. Double Cab is the part ending in '18', the part number ending in '17' is for Access Cab/Regular Cab. Inspect the radiator carefully for damage on arrival, at all bibs and seams.

Also, I've heard some people mention the latest part version may have different side/mount rails, but it's possible to retrofit the original (and supposedly more-sturdy) factory rails onto the replacement radiator. I think the new ones use nutserts or something?

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Thanks for the info.^^^^

 

For those who need to jump a tooth in either direction.

https://youtube.com/shorts/KlkwlQa5RhE?si=SU723Bw59-bA2UTA

 

Edit:
(Didn't realize Aisin Had installation instructions in box. It mentions nothing about going counter clockwise on tundra until 2009 model.)
I've got my parts in. Mileage isn't at 90K since last belt change, but has been 10 years so getting ready to change it all.
I worked as mechanic 30 years ago so I have an idea what I'm doing.
Just a few questions.
I've watched most of these videos.
Is this step chiltons mentions for the mid-2006 correct? No videos mention it, and its the only place I have seen it mentioned?
All the videos mention putting the cam marks on the "T".
But the chiltons guide statesnumber 1 would put it on the timing "T." I have no idea on the number 2 below.)
2005 and 2006 models only 19 Temporarily reinstall the crankshaft pulley and bolt. Immobilize the pulley and tighten the bolt, then:

1. On 2005 models, turn the crankshaft approximately 50-degrees clockwise (a little more than 1/8-turn, which is 45-degrees) from TDC. When positioned properly, the timing mark should be aligned with an imaginary line running through the crankshaft pulley bolt through the no. 2 idler pulley bolt.
2. On 2006 models, turn the crankshaft approximately 50-degrees counterclockwise (a little more than 1/8-turn, which is 45-de-grees) from TDC (see illustration).

Thanks in advance.

 

Instead of answering question regarding Chilton's way, simply suggest the link below that we share often when it comes to getting the marks correct.

Toyota 2UZ-FE Timing Belt Marks 4.7L | TOYO Headquarters

 

I finally found it too.

 

I just wanted to say- thank you all for the comprehensive information. I was able to change my timing belt, water pump, serpentine belt/tensioner with no problems. It took a few hours longer than expected as it was my first time doing it but I'm almost certain I could do it again without following the videos. Plus I saved some money on labor cost and got an education as well.

The timing belt itself was very easy to change out, only thing is I wish I paid closer attention when taking the parts and bolts off as putting them back on was time consuming when I had to remember where all of the pulleys and bolts went.

One thing I did was use a floor jack to torque the crank bolt because It's what I had close by and the bar wasn't long enough to reach the frame:

 

Throwing this out there for info/inquiry.

Can anyone help understand why Aisin tells you to use FIPG here, when Toyota clearly sells a gasket for it?

I see in the parts system, as you'll see below, there's a gasket where Aisin says "Apply FIPG" in their kit, as circled in blue below, the part number for that gasket is 16341-50020. The O-ring circled in red, which is shown in the Aisin thing here, it should come in the kit, is OEM p/n 96761-35035.

Anyway, just curious why the kit would tell you to use FIPG when Toyota clearly has a gasket for this application, which is a lot cleaner/less messy than FIPG.

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Thanks for the part numbers.
I asked my local dealer tech and he said fipg is what he uses

 

@shifty` - the circled gasket is for the water crossover pipe. Toyota does not sell a gasket for that but RA does. I did mine with FIPG last time but may try the gasket next time

 

Right, in the diagram, red circle/16323C part should be the o-ring from the Aisin picture, right? And 16355A should be the "Apply FIPG" gasket, no?

 

I have to label everything as far as bolts otherwise I get lost. I get a box of "snack size" ziplock bags and Sharpie a description on each bag as I go. And I still manage to misplace one or two bolts or nuts.

 

When I did my 04, I followed the FSM and changed those 2 gaskets which are noted in the FSM as non-reusable. I used the part # you mentioned above....16341-50020 purchased from McGeorge and are used on manyyy year Tundras.

 

Thanks everyone for all the resources.

As part of the job, I am trying to understand what is worth using OEM and what isn't. I am expanding the job, as is customary for some, to include more parts that I am going to be touching and feel like I should replace anyways based on mileage or squeaks in the accessory system.

Fairly comprehensive list below, happy to edit to include anything I missed for future folks to reference. Tools not included here, but are on 1st page. Items bold are ones that I'd like to confirm if they need to be OEM or if another brand is acceptable.

• Timing Belt Kit: AISIN TKT021. Best option, most comprehensive, proven quality.
• Radiator: DENSO 2210518 - Double cab PN. Rock auto and summit are reputable for shipping and returns and competitive on price.
• EDIT: Forgot radiator hoses!
• Radiator Coolant Hose Lower: 16572-0F011
• Lower Hose Clamps: 90466-41003
• Radiator Coolant Hose Upper: 16571-0F031
• Upper Hose Clamps: 90466-41005
• Thermostat: 90916-03100. Not to expensive might as well go OEM.
• Thermostat Gasket: 16346-50010. Not to expensive might as well go OEM.
• Tensioner: 16620-0W101. Are there any reputable alternatives for equal quality but lower price? SKP? Gates?
• Serpentine Belt: 90916-02791. Are there any reputable alternatives for equal quality but lower price? Gates?
• Oil Pump Crank Seal: 90311-A0001. Not to expensive might as well go OEM.
• Water Outlet Gasket: 16341-50020 OR FPIG AISIN AB1207B1. Not to expensive might as well go OEM.
• Accessory Idler Pulley: 16604-0F010. Are there any reputable alternatives for equal quality but lower price? Gates?

 

Bad part about this forum: If you don't forcibly link some terms to a good manufacturer's website, like Summit or Rockauto, it will auto-link to scAmazon. Some people take that as a recommendation, as though you're saying to go order it from scAmazon.

 

I revised all to link to either rock auto or my trusted west coast online Toyota parts store. (Lithia of Springfield, good prices and good shipping, and good over the phone help)

Any thoughts on the parts in bold for OEM vs an alternative?

 

Yes and yes. I'm running a gates serpentine belt and gates tensioner. No issues with either yet. Although the tensioner is such a pain in the ass that I really don't want to do that job again. Hopefully I won't regret Gates down the road.

 

Thanks, how many miles have you been running gates? What would you think about running a gates serpentine idler?

Also, for anyone reading, I updated the list above to include radiator hoses and clamps as well.

 

I've been running Gates HD (green) serp belt for 3+ years now, installed back in Jan/Feb 2022.

It's the same belt Delco sells. I'm not sure who the original manufacturer is on the belt. I'd run another one in the future.

Not sure I'd trust their timing belt as much as Aisin/Toyota, but ...

 

Not many. I think I installed it in 2023. So less than 10k miles.

It's probably fine and that part is a lot easier to replace if it fails. But I also don't think that part is that expensive from Toyota. And remember Toyota is having a 25% off sale right now on all parts. That would likely offset most of the savings you'd get with Gates.

 

Thanks. Yea surprisingly that OEM idler is like $100 bucks on sale. And half that from Gates on Rockauto. I'll have to consider if I think I can change it without taking the radiator out again and weigh the options.