What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

@KNABORES you might be on to something! Jut saw that the service manual has a wattage specification (below) for the bulb used to test the Fuel Level Warning Switch.

The Sylvania replacement bulb I got from AutoZone is only rated at 1.4 watts. I wonder if the same is true for the Wiper Fluid Warning light?

 

"racecar"

 

I use Road Trip LE on my phone. The LE or Lite Edition lets you track one vehicle for free. I swore I updated to the pay version at one point to track both vehicles, but ... when I checked again in my purchase history, shit wasn't there. Either they pulled the app, or I'm losing my mind.

 

Unless it requires 107 or whatever flavor you can get there, there’s no benefit to run it. If 93 will do, you’ll get the same results on 107 as you do on 93. Now, if it’s pulling timing on 93, upping the octane may give a little more power.

 

If the 03 is a racetruck with its slushbox and what-nots, your Vic is a racecar with its SC and 6 speed

Thems the rules.

 

Thanks, it never occurred to me that the door sticker would have the original tire size. My 2004 RCLB with tow package originally came with 265/70R16's

 

I've been driving back and forth between Portland and my parent's place out towards the coast in Oregon all year. Once I'm off the interstate and driving primarily on flat, rural two lane highways, I'm lucky if I get above 55 MPH. I routinely see about 16-17 MPG with 265/75/16s, even occasionally 18 MPG if I can avoid driving in town. Now when I spend time driving in Portland, it's back down to like 14-15 MPG because of stop and go traffic. But driving in the country, especially if there's traffic, the engine is usually sitting right about 2K RPM. Great for fuel mileage, but damn do I get bored spending all day driving 45-55 MPH.

 

I bought my truck in Boise and drove it back to Montana. Between the two there's a stretch of wide open, sagebrush & volcanic rock terrain through Craters of Moon National Monument with a 55 or 60mph speed limit. Miles and miles of open country, and at least if you're concerned with getting pulled over, 55/60mph. It's brutal in a modern vehicle. Especially when you can see miles in every direction.

 

My bikstein B8 5160 rear shocks came in the mail today. Anyone else running these and also the 90-221HD rear leaf springs? I’m considering installing both at the same time. I just want to make sure the two are compatible. The 5160s say 0-1.5” of lift compatible, I won’t get more than 1.5” out of the HD leafs will I?

 

You'll be fine. I've been running the 5160's on my OEM leafs with wheelers AAL and also with my Alcan leafs.

 

Pro tip: If not already going that way, I'd recommend removing the shock on one side, swapping the leaf pack, then installing the shock once the leaf pack is bolted in. You need to unbolt the bottom shock mount anyway in order to swap the new leaf pack in successfully anyway. Also, frankly, it's easier just to cut or split the top nut on the shock than whing it off normally. Likewise, your OEM bottle jack that came with the truck comes in clutch as a 2nd pair of hands to raise/lower the axle and raise/lower the leaf pack when bolting it up.

Ratcheting wrenches are your friend for the shock top nut. If I had a dollar for every person who ever forgot the top of the shaft on the Bilsteins had a allenhead provision, I'd be loaded

Aside from that, I take it you got longer u-bolts for the new leaf packs? So you don't get stick

 

Doing another one of my 900 mile round trips to visit the GF this weekend. Gonna be cold and windy. We'll see what the MPGs will be.

I was hoping to get some good accurate info last time I went but the coil going bad really goofed up my data. I also think the scangauge estimate is more optimistic than it was before now that I've got the new tires. Maybe someday I'll go with 4.10s.

 

Got around to putting a new sticker on it


@dirtydeeds

 

Parts I have not on order include 5160s, 90-221HD springs, longer U-bolts, new bump stops, and new eye bolts for the oem shackles in case I have to sawzall them out.
*Is it worth $180 to get new shackles?
*I am interested in Archive Garage U-bolt flip kit for less drag in the snow ($180) but I don’t want to pay an additional $200 for their special bump stops. It looks like the OEM bumps are not compatible with this kit.
*Please tell me about this allenhead provision!? My shock tops look like this.

 

My 01 TRD shows 245/70 so not sure what decided on tire size.

 

I need to look up yellowbox. Never heard of it, but I'll definitely be doing that when I upsize the tires.

Yeah I keep on going back and forth between the 275/70/17 and 255/80/17, but need to make a call by Black Friday. I've been watching endless first gen videos and looking at google images. Saw this one on youtube and it just hit the spot. Those are the wheels I think I'm gonna get too. This is on 255/80/17s. But dang, 255 just seems skinny!

 

255 seems skinny because of cultural phenomena and little regard for application. I've seen a few I really dug with 255's and have considered it myself. You do what works for you and moves you inside. Or, as I sometimes put it, people's opinions don't pay my bills, so I don't care what one may think.

 

Here something to compare to... I'm only running 255/75/17 so a bit smaller diameter but I think they fit these 7" wide wheel s a little better than a wider tire would anyway.

 

Here's a couple pics of my 255s/85/r16s. I love them.









They're not the best shots, but it's what I got.

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/yellow-box-speedo-calibrator.31996/

Who do I need to stab in the neck to get that C10 in the bg?
Looks ballpark the same color as my '68 stepstide.

Skinny isn't evil, you'll get better slippery traction and it'll handle better and track better on the road. Less strain on suspension too, I believe.

But both diameter and width will fuck you on rubbing. I think the 275/70r17 give you the best of both worlds. It'll be ¾" wider than the 255/80r17, and ½" - ¾" less diameter, should look beefier minus the woes that come with 285/70r17. Just remember, if you get A/T tires, they'll almost certainly be 0.1 - 0.4" taller than tire calculator in many cases... it seems like all-terrain are nearly always ¼" larger than calculator spec, maybe it's the added gnarly tread? So your 33.1" tire (the 255) will probably be closer to 33.5". More aggressive tread means more knob protrustion means more significant rub. It looks like the only tires I see that are close to true-to-size are C-rated, almost all E-rated are oversize, though some brands just run everything oversize. For example, Nitto Ridge Grapplers, you're at 33.3" which puts you in hammer-the-fuck-outta-pinchweld-city :

​

 

Might even be a K10

 

Do you have a reason to think the existing shackles/hangers are bad, or bushings are shot?

And shit, I guess the 5160 isn't setup like a lot of other shocks. Hold on, I'll find a pic.

​

 

Tundra just ate it's second alternator in a month. Only issue I have is constantly having to brush corrosion off the battery terminal. Both times the voltage regulator went out and it started over charging.

This time was a little different as I got an abs light and the speedometer started going crazy and the radio cut out.

 

First, a cable with internal corrosion will cause you to eat alternators.

Second, are you doing nothing to avoid corrosion on your terminals? They make felt disks that help curtail gases from leaking around the posts, and dielectric grease for the terminals. Once you get corrosion inside the cables, you're asking for electrical nightmares.

Third, I'd test for voltage drop between alt and battery, verify the cables, or peel back and re-terminate the cable on the battery side, where the corrosion is likely living. You may have corrosion on the smaller cable that jumps from the battery into the fuse box next to the battery.

 

I need to replace the negative battery cable, I'm going to have to make a new one and bypass the original wiring. If I had known it would be a problem I would have done it when the wiring was off the engine when I did the cooling system.

I've been trying to scrub the corrosion off the cable terminal because the battery is new but it's completely compromised at this point. Just dont have time to do anything major until January.

 

Sometimes battery cases develop cracks where the post comes out. That's why you get acid all over the post. Remember this next time you think about carrying a battery by the posts. They even make special tools to carry batteries by the posts. Use them if you like acid leaks, or even worse, a loose connection between the post and the plates.

 

DK where did you get that mount or did you fabricate yourself?
That looks great.

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-2181#post-3748119

 

At least curb the issues.

$13 NOCO E404 12.25 Oz Battery Terminal Cleaner Spray and Corrosion Cleaner with Acid Detector

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002MGTNX0/

And

$6 12 Pieces Battery Terminal Anti Corrosion Washers Fiber Battery Terminal Protector(Green, Red)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TG8WDFY

And

$8 Permatex 81150 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 0.33 oz. Tube, Silver

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL2RI2/

You don't need to buy on scAmazon, you can get them locally.

Clean properly with NOCO.
I like to apply dielectric to the base of the washer and install.
Apply dielectric grease to your post.
Install the terminal, apply dielectric to the terminal.

You will not see corrosion at the post again any time soon, unless your battery is somehow defective.

 

Ok good to know, You had me really worried there for a second haha. I cant see the bushings at all, most of the other bushings/rubber was cracked on the front suspension but I don't know anything other than the shackle itself is in good shape. is it a huge pain to press new shackle bushings in? the shackle bushings are significantly cheaper than the whole thing, but ATS sells ones with a grease zerk and you know how I love zerks.