1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

Nice. Watching the U of A game here at the house too. Field looks different though

 

We'll have to get together soon. Pretty sure I still owe some steaks. Lol.

 

That is wild. I'll be waiting for the ups man

I originally wanted a jd2 around that time period. It's probably A good thing I held off this long as my fabrication and welding have come a long way.

 

Pretty sure that's a different U of A...

 

Yeah, it’s THE U of A

 

I never saw this exact graphic, but watched numerous videos online about testing the ohms on the solenoids. The only thing that makes it not work for me - and please call me an idiot if I'm just not understanding electricity - is the TCC Solenoid doesn't have two terminals, just one. So I am pretty positive you can't test for exact Ohms. I simply just took alligator clips, clipped the red from the terminal to the red on my battery. Then attached a grounded wire to my solenoid, and touched it to my battery's ground. No joy. No clicking, no sounds, nothing. So I'm gonna say it needs replacing. Toyota's OEM part for the solenoid is over $300 dollars so I am going to order a reputable one off RockAuto. Worst comes to worst and I have to learn my lesson, this wasn't all that difficult of a project to face - just a day of banging on my pan and cringing trying to slip a paint scraper in between the gasket to break it loose. Then I literally just unclipped the solenoid from its harness, pretty easy as long as you don't break anything.

I'm ordering all of what I'll need to put it back together. The solenoid and 6 quarts of ATF(just to be safe). I'm struggling trying to find the pan gasket online and starting to think it might just be that Toyota Sealant(I think?) that's on the edges, and I happen to have a tube of it here thanks to @shifty` raving about it one time before. I used it on something a while back, don't remember what though... Anywho, debating still if I want to replace the filter or whatever else while I'm in there, but I'm also buying all this stuff with a broke mindset atm. Just been focusing on my college classes and won't start making any more moooola until the tax season starts back up in Jan. Moneyless lol

EDIT: Called the dealership. There isn't an actual gasket for the pan, just a sealant coded

$33 00295-01281 Formed-in-Place Transmission Gasket - 3.5 oz. Tube

00295-01281. Ordered. Hoping it will all be here early next week so I can get my truck out of the driveway and expose some of those lovely new ATF stains. Thinking I might make a new thread about this project... Especially since this is one of the first things I've tackled where there really wasn't much in terms of info online to help guide me

 

So your one of those THE guys too…..

 

Yeah I've seen a few different videos from different makes and models but same procedure. Was planning two multi-gallon containers for new incoming and old catch, and just run it constsnt until full exchange instead of the stopn start think Timmy and others might have shown.

 

Fun fact. I dated one of Lou Holtz's nieces in the early '80's. Total Razorback devotees and lots of good times at game-times.

 

Hmmm, works been crazy. Added work #2 to my life as well. I seem to have missed a month of the forums. Skipped to current - did I miss anything?

Belated happy Thanksgiving all.

 

Was wondering where you went, hopefully work #2 is a good thing. Happy holidays!

 

You added work shit to your life?

Happy belated turkeyday. Was wondering where you rolled off to.

 

Good thing.
I saw job one was on the precipice. Lot of companies closing around here. I took a 2nd job across town that starts 15 minutes after job one stops. Was working 7;30 am until 10:15 pm (not including commute). Sure enough, job one cut my hours 50%, but let me pick when to work them. Now I'm working noon-4, 4:15 - 10:15, so roughly back to a 'normal' working day - if shifted a bit. Also took a boarder into the house. Gotta do what ya gotta do. Also talked to a financial guy - can't quite retire yet if I want to be where I want to be when I retire. Guess I'm not leaving the 200k+ mile club any time soon.

 

Question for the group. Looking at plywood.

I want to mount the plywood on the wall, and then mount things such as battery chargers, broom holders, and other various "medium" heavy things to it.

How thick would you go? 1/2", 3/4"?

 

3/4" for sure.

 

Wheeling pics from this weekend. Just got home an hour ago. Truck did great on some really rocky tight creek bed trails. Tried a lot of new trails for once at HF. New cap did fine. Needs insulation and some weather strips for tailgate and back window.

None of you losers showed up, so it's just lots of T4R pics. We had three other Tundras.com members show up. All second gen owners. One wheeled his, but wasn't in my group. One brought his taco with his tundra and wheeled the former. The last just brought his taco.
Second gens showed out, boys. They made our shit look week. So I hung with the 34-38" tire crowd to redeem my faith in the Best Gen. Sadly she did have to use a small number of bypasses. But not for a lack of trying.
#gimmedemdirtyfives

https://www.tundras.com/threads/thanksgiving-weekend-wheeling-at-hidden-falls.149817/page-4

 

Off to fix the jeep. Wish me luck.

 

I use 3/4" plywood and CASING hand drive nails. Much easier to pull things off without hanging up on the nail head. And of course it will be much better than those stupid peg boards and special clips that fall on the floor every time you pull an item off.

 

I'd say it all depends on how maintained your shit is. Under 200k with a previous flush, or if the fluid is still reddish, I say send it.

 

I do, the spidertrax 1.25” spacers

 

Tu, sir. Good to know

In other news, my SPC ubj's, p/n 25001, arrived. There is a red seal on the box that clearly states that they are the maintenance-free (no greasing required) and they have no grease fittings installed. However, the instructions clearly state that they can be converted to greaseable w/SPC p/n 25477. Everything about them looks identical to my current ones, which are greaseable. Even the stamping. I'm confused now I'll have to reach out to SPC tech tomorrow. P/n 25477 may be the rumored kit I heard about for the newer-style as well. Idk.

 

3/4" void-free ply is what we've used in telco/security backboards in equipment rooms my entire career. I typically aim for one screw every 12" - 18" vertical in the stud, and I want at least 3 studs if the board is more than 36" wide, 1 on each side and at least one middle.

Just had my brewer friend next door with the 2012-2013 Cherokee Laredo 3.6L reach out, same Jeep I helped him with rear diff fluid swap and carrier bearing diagnostics on a few months back.

His kid had an overheat issue reecently, he got the water pump and T-stat replaced (I hadn't heard about it or I'd have helped) for some outrageous amount like $1,800. Then had an oil change done, and about 4 weeks later the thing is dumping oil all over the back of the engine. I popped the engine cover off to see if they forgot the O-ring in the filter canister thingy or something stupid, and noticed there's gobs and gobs of oil all around this metal ice cream sandwich thing under the intake, which it appears is an oil cooler? Looks like the stupidest fucking design I've ever seen. Also looks like Dorman made an all-metal replacement part to fix this fuckery shit design from Jeep.

Part is only $185, I told him I'll help him install it so he can save 3-5 hours of shop, but not sure if he'll take me up on it. I just hate the guy practically lost his shirt when his brewpub had to close, last thing he needs is another $2k auto repair bill. Also told him I'd teach he and his kid to change the oil on it so they're not relying on shops. It sounds like overtightening the plastic canister that holds the filter is a common cause of the failure he's seeing.

 

To clarify, I mean use the casing nails for hooks, not fastening to the wall.

 

Finished the Jeep. Great success. Exhaust cam follower on number 6 cylinder. Easy fix.

 

Pennzoil platinum is the shizz. I run it in all my vehicles. They all look new inside.

 

PP is one of those oils that, every time I run across the BITOG forum looking for something else, someone is always talking it up.

 

Hard to refute the evidence in my case. Looks like raw metal. No discoloration or varnish at all. And hundreds of thousands of miles.

 

Believe me, I'd love for my heads to look like that. Sadly, my PO was short-tripping on cheap/recycled conventional and probably only did oil changes when the service light came on. And that's assuming the jiffy stores he used even changed the oil. I'm still shocked at how the heads look.

I'd be interested to check under my valve covers today, after all the treatments I've done, but can't be bothered to pop them off. I'm due for an OC, maybe I'll check when I install my new drain valve.

 

What oil are you using?