1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

Mobil1 "high mile" full syn, or "extended performance" full syn. It's one of those, "It's what I've been using forever" things.

 

I typically run that when I can't find mobile 1. The shop I worked at in college was pushing Pennzoil as our bulk oil (conventional and semi synthetic) and our top shelf full synthetic, until one day we switched to Mobil.

 

That's what I run on the Tundra. I had to switch back to Mobil1 on the RAV4 because the oil leak is worse on Pennzoil. Something about the seal conditioners Mobil1 adds, helps with the oil leak.

Unfortunately,

$21 AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks, 8 Ounce Bottle

AT-205 didn't fix my oil leak. I was a little surprised given the positive reviews it has.

 

No oil made could make my engine that clean. My short trips in the cold weather guarantee that. Also, the fact I used Dino oil for the first 100k miles before switching to a synthetic blend and then Mobil 1 at 150k miles.

 

I'm open to trying the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, but I'm guessing I need to run a few oil changes before I see any improvements. That could take a year or two.

It's $3 more per 5qt than Kirkland, and $1 less per 5qt than the M1 I've been using.

Just noticed the normal PP is 23. PUP is $29 / 5qt.

 

Its $24/5qts at Walmart

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D3qFfAEp9AU

 

Walmart is the only place I buy oil. I've wanted to try Kirkland but they only sell it in bulk I think.

 

What oil do you use?

 

So this was interesting from that video. I'm pretty sure Boron is what makes your internals shiny. Why the hell does Blackstone show there's so little Boron in the PP vs. the PUP?

Oh and @FirstGenVol I was wanting to try the Kirkland too, but I've started a rule of thumb with Costco: If it's not more than at least 15% cheaper than name-brand products, I'm not buying it. The oil is just hitting that threshold, but not close enough for me for a mystery oil. I know the company that makes it has a great reputation and does NAPA and other brands, but ... I dunno. I'd rather pay the extra 15% for something name-brand where I know what's in it.

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I'm a little and surprised and disappointed the platinum didn't perform that great. The Ultra Platinum did really well and at the end of the video he mentions a previous video he made where it placed 2nd against other brands.

 

The following:
0-100k Toyota brand Dino oil 5w-30
100k-150k Castrol synthetic blend 5w-30
150k-259k Mobil 1 synthetic

 

It's been a while since I researched it, but I think Kirkland has been tested a lot and performed really well.

 

Once it's filtered out, selection is slim. But they do have the M1-HM, and that's a good price. On a whim, before you posted that, I picked up 3x5qt of PUP from Wallyworld. I have a $50 gift card from some volunteer work I did at an old folks home back in July, and I was going to use it for holiday gifts, so this is my holiday gift to the truck. But beyond that, Wallworld delivers to my door, for free. I'd be eating thru $10 in gas driving to either convenient Costco. So it's a wash either way when you subtract the gift card.

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Yup, ice cream sandwich lookin thing is the oil cooler. Also doubles as the oil filter location. Absolutely atrocious design. I replaced it on my mom's minivan, it's fairly straightforward. Intake manifold needs to be pulled, and there's likely a giant mess of oil under there. I don't remember a ton about the job, I think I was 15 or 16 when I did it. I bought the Mishimoto one for like $200 or $250, and was pleased with the quality.

On the new housing I paint-markered a line on the housing and cap so the oil change place could see where it should be tightened to. I'd tell them to tighten it until that line when we'd take it in for oil changes.

 

I’ve fixed the leaky oil cooler on my daughters. Just O rings that go flat. The metal housing is no real fix. Just don’t over torque the factory one. Both of mine still have factory housings. I fully intended to replace the o rings on the housing on the wife’s today. Once tore down to it, zero leaks. So I left it alone.

 

I noticed a few weeks back that PP is sold on Temu from a USA warehouse. At that time, PP 5qt was going for $16.12 and free shipping over $30. Not seeing this same deal any longer. It had never occured to me to even check Temu for oil

 

Probably counterfeit

 

Dependsoil?

 

@BroHon, i didn’t want to clutter up the other guy’s thread https://www.tundras.com/threads/c.151477/#post-3776460 but i wanted to give you the reason why i wasn’t concerned about the Cheery Bomb muffer (that i welded directly to the floorboards) burning the carpet. It took me a few day for me to find the pics of my old subaru (turns out it was an 1983). It will take me a 1000 words of typing….

The floor carpeting was constantly wet for multiple years. Longer story shorter, i bought that Subaru wagon for $200. I saw it in an industrial building area. 3/4 of the roof was crushed down to the top of the seat’s headrests by an angry tree. I used a floor jack to manipulate the roof back into place…sort of. 5 out of the 8 windows were blown out so i used plexiglass and sheetmetal screws to kinda seal it back up. Rain, snow, and mud would always funnel inside the car. Rather than drilling drain holes in the floorboards, i simply shot multiple rounds of .22 bullets throughout the floor. Fire wasn’t an issue since the carpet was perpetually wet and muddy. And even if the car did catch on fire, most onlookers would have likely just cheered the flames. This was back around 1997?

 

Yeah fluid looks great and it's been flushed b4. Just at over 250k now so want to do it again.

 

I think you'll be fine regardless of which method you choose then.

I just been doing drain n fills on mine every few oil changes.

 

Got all the T-IV waiting for a mutigalllon full fluid transfer. Had plans for working in the shop this weekend but the weather was apparently 36 degree high today so focused work mostly inside. Easier to heat when not starting from frozen.

 

Holy crap.... what a little champ! That's awesome. The JESUS mobile, hahaha. Prayers were prob mandatory before even turning the key I bet if you look back that's the most fun, and most return on investment you ever got out of a vehicle. Great Pics, thx for sharing that story

 

For those following along at home, here’s what’s killing most new modern engine valve trains. Bad steel. Here’s a failed set of needle bearings killing a roller on a cam follower. Same failure that grenaded my BILs GM 6.2. Same failure that plagues Jeep wranglers and gladiators and Rams, the “pentastar” or “Hemi tick”. The roller basically collapses without the needle bearings to support it and the cam starts slapping the cam follower arms instead of riding on the roller. $8 part.

https://youtu.be/R2YpTRJdYZM?si=eXsSKr0IfUNm9SRf

 

Damn. This reminds me of the pentastar stupidity I looked at with my friend's Cherokee Laredo this weekend. That oil cooler plastic+metal bullshit that lives in the valley is absurd. Like, why the hell didn't they just make it out of cast alloy in the first place?

There are so many little things like that I'd be compelled to do on those vehicles if I owned any. I couldn't sit by idly and wait for failure to happen. Surely someone out there has a beefed up kit for it? Like, I've seen permafixes for the Jeep carrier bearing failures, and Dorman makes an all-cast part for the oil cooler that's an "OEM fix" as they call it. I assume there's a solid American company making a super-stout cam follower?

That shit stinks of planned obsolesence, although it was probably more about saving $5/engine on parts.

 

To be fair, I have two pentastars, a 3.2 and a 3.6. Other than each having one bad cam follower and the 3.2 needed the oil cooler seals replaced, both have been great. They make good power and are pretty fuel efficient. Both around 170k miles on them now. Still have both original oil coolers. They are composite. They will crack I imagine if you over torque them, just like the Gen 2.5 UR series engine oil filter caps would.

 

Yeah, just saw your other post above about your experience with the oil coolers. When we scoped out his, the failure appears to be at the front of the cooler, where the metal meets plastic. That's where I'm seeing the majority of the spillover, and it looks like he has about 1qt of oil and lost several more quarts down the back of the engine, the block and trans are absolutely coated. It's a mess. I dunno why shops would torque down so hard, that o-ring on the filter cap is beefy as hell. Just oil it and snug it and call it a day! Damn gorillas working at lube places.

My thoughts exactly. Or potentially grey market. Any other oil companies using a yellow jug? If so, they probably peeled the sticker off and taped a new one in its place. You can't trust anything on Temu. It's scAmazon, AliBaba edition...

 

Bottom of the oil cooler just has a set of O rings that get flattened over time. I replaced them and torqued it back down and no leaks